86 1200 Alternator Conversion UNDERWAY

[richheavlin]

I have about 1 1/2 hours in and have everything off down to the crank bolt.

BEST INVESTMENT TO DATE?? 1000# capacity lift from Harbor Freight!

My issue is that even using a 1/2” impact gun with a swivel socket I can’t get the bolt to break loose.

FIRST question, is the bolt a standard right hand thread? If so, tomorrow I’ll get a buddy for some help and have him turn the wheel and hold the bike so I can go at it without the swivel. And if that doesn’t do it I’ll have him hold the brake in 5th gear and get a big breaker bar.

Surprisingly, it took me longer to get the radiator hoses off than anything else!

[Rednaxs60]

The crank bolt is standard metric thread, counterclockwise to loosen. Impact gun should work. There is a bolt on the end of the starter clutch that you can use as well. Here's a picture:

Arrow points to bolt head - 17 mm. Easier to do this conversion with the front wheel removed.

[richheavlin]

Question time.

I have the alternator mounted and ran a single wire directly to the positive post of the battery.

#1 is this the correct wiring?
#2 if it is correct, what should I show for voltage running?

I’m seeing no change at all in battery voltage, even over 3,000rpm

The alternator I installed has the main output terminal and a 2 terminal place for a plug, or terminals.
Do I need to attach something there?

I did check the wire I installed and i have the same voltage at the battery as I do if I check at the post on the alternator, so I know that connection is good.

And here I thought I was doing good.

Here’s a picture of the back of the alternator.

[Charlie1Horse]

Not knowing the alternator you are using, I am not sure which wire on the two pin connector but, one of those connections should be an exciter wire that causes the alternator to charge. Check with a local alternator shop and they should be able to tell you which wire to connect to IGN for it to operate.
Russell

Those who say it cannot be done should try not to interrupt those who are doing it.

[Rednaxs60]

Charlie1Horse is correct, the two pin connection is for excitation and an indicator lamp. Check with an alt shop to find out. Don't have to connect the indicator lamp, but do need the excitation wire hooked up.

You have the alternator connected to the battery positive terminal, personally I would connect it to the starter solenoid battery terminal to ensure you do not overcharge the battery - just my personal preference.

Good luck

[richheavlin]

GOT IT!!!

Came in and opened my iPad to the answers that I figured out. I found a wiring diagram online and viola!! P O W E R!!

As far as connecting to the starter terminal instead of the battery directly, if I do that should I have an in-line fuse or breaker? On a good note, I figured I’d install an inline fuse to the battery and when I revved the bike, it blew my 25a fuse. LOL

What does connecting to the starter accomplish vs direct to the battery?

THANKS for the help guys! I’m so excited if I wasn’t a 51 yr old fat guy, I’d do a cartwheel.

[Rednaxs60]

The issue is with the battery having three purposes. First is to provide starting power, second is to absorb system spikes and such, and third is to provide supplemental power when the on board alternator system is not producing enough power to the electrical system. The battery is not intended to be a distribution node.

The battery is at approximately 12.6 VDC. The alternator set point is at approximately 14.2 VDC. As long as the alternator puts out more than 12.6 VDC, the battery, once the engine is started, is a small load on the electrical system. Once the engine is started and the battery is returned to a 100% state of charge, the amount of amperage going to the battery is very little, say 1 to 3 amps. This is the design intent of the electrical system.

Connecting the alternator output to the battery positive terminal in essence makes the battery a distribution point, and puts considerably more amperage to the battery than intended. You have no way of controlling where the current goes and overcharging the battery is a very good possibility.

The original connection of the alternator system is somewhere in the wiring between the starter solenoid and the alternator as depicted in this schematic:

You will notice where it states "the two red wires are bonded together" is where the original alternator system (the alternator system on the 1200 is a three part system - internal rotor, internal stator, and external regulator/rectifier) was connected into the electrical system, not at the battery. Once the battery is replenished, the amount of current flowing towards the battery is negligible, as the majority goes back through the ignition switch to power the bike electrical system.

You will also notice in this schematic that there is a 30 amp fuse at the starter solenoid that protects the initial starting of the engine and electrical system. Once the engine is started and the alternator produces adequate power such that it exceeds 12.6 VDC and the amount of current reduces towards the battery, there is no further fuse protection towards the ignition switch. Connecting the alternator output at the starter solenoid battery terminal has the current flow going through the 30 amp fuse incorporated into the starter solenoid. Fuses are there to protect the electrical system wiring, and conversely the equipment on the circuit. You can achieve this by connecting to the battery positive terminal, but the battery is not designed to do this.

You want to keep the battery at "arms" length from the bulk of current being produced by the alternator.

The vintage car web sites also corroborate this premise. Here is a web site to peruse for additional information. It is from the vintage car industry, but there is no difference in the basics: http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical ... wire.shtml Here is a web site for the companies articles: http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml Good reading material.

On my '85 LTD fuel injected bike, the OEM has a 30 amp circuit connected to the starter solenoid battery terminal. This circuit powers the CFI system and a couple of other relays. If the OEM thought it was a good design to connect this circuit to the battery, I'm certain it would have done so; however, since it is not connected to the battery, I submit that the OEM sees connecting additional circuits directly to the battery as not a good idea.

These are my thoughts on the 1200 electrical system. There is always a better mouse trap so to speak.

Hope this helps. Cheers.

[richheavlin]

I know I saw somewhere what people were using for the lower radiator hose. Have any suggestions? I know it was something from Toyota. LOL