Changing dog bone fuse


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Jbone90
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Changing dog bone fuse

Post by Jbone90 » Fri Aug 24, 2018 11:41 pm





The solenoid dogbone fuse wires melted on my motorcycle and would like to replace with an inlet 30amp fuse like I've seen in a few post (please see picture)

My question is however, how do I solder the 4 wires from the old dogbone to the new fuse wires?



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Rednaxs60
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Re: Changing dog bone fuse

Post by Rednaxs60 » Sat Aug 25, 2018 9:15 am

What 4 wires are you talking about? Picture would be good. Are you talking about the red, red/white, green/red and yellow/red wires? The dog bone fuse should be on the starter solenoid and you should be able to remove the dog bone fuse and connect the blade fuse holder to the dog bone fuse connections.
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest

Jbone90
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Re: Changing dog bone fuse

Post by Jbone90 » Sat Aug 25, 2018 10:05 am

The wires you described are correct. I will try and get a picture. The new blade fuse holder only has two wires. Not sure which order to solder the old wires together to the new wires in order for a successful circuit
Rednaxs60 wrote:
Sat Aug 25, 2018 9:15 am
What 4 wires are you talking about? Picture would be good. Are you talking about the red, red/white, green/red and yellow/red wires? The dog bone fuse should be on the starter solenoid and you should be able to remove the dog bone fuse and connect the blade fuse holder to the dog bone fuse connections.

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SilverDave
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Re: Changing dog bone fuse

Post by SilverDave » Sat Aug 25, 2018 10:45 am

Some marine shops have waterproof fuse holders with small eyelet crimped on, so the dogbone fuse screws just go thru the brass eyelets .

I did not find these till after I had "made my own " :
Cut fuse holder wire slightly shorter, get some crimp-on eyelets , just sized so the tiny screws from dogbone will go thru them
and crimp AND solder these eyelets to the clean ends of the wires . If you size the stripped wire correctly, you don't even need shrink-wrap .

Super simple .

Personal note ..
Some fuse holders ( China ? ) are made with sufficiently different metal than the blade fuse foot .
The effect, from the large current going thru there is ( sometimes ) a electrical reverse electroplating ..
Agh !!!
.. One blade foot is super shiny , one is corroded and black. Took about 10 months on mine.
Of course bike stops when this critical fuse is sufficiently corroded .

I hucked the old fuse holder out and it hasn't happened on this second newer one ..( after 9 years )

SilverDave

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Rednaxs60
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Re: Changing dog bone fuse

Post by Rednaxs60 » Sat Aug 25, 2018 11:38 am

Jbone90 wrote:
Sat Aug 25, 2018 10:05 am
The wires you described are correct. I will try and get a picture. The new blade fuse holder only has two wires. Not sure which order to solder the old wires together to the new wires in order for a successful circuit
Rednaxs60 wrote:
Sat Aug 25, 2018 9:15 am
What 4 wires are you talking about? Picture would be good. Are you talking about the red, red/white, green/red and yellow/red wires? The dog bone fuse should be on the starter solenoid and you should be able to remove the dog bone fuse and connect the blade fuse holder to the dog bone fuse connections.
The wires I mention do not get soldered together. The red wire is for power to the ignition circuit when staring the engine, the red/white wire is from the regulator to replenish the battery after starting and if the battery provides supplemental power to the electrical system during operation. These two wires are connected together in the wiring harness about 1/2 way between the battery and regulator/rectifier. This schematic illustrates where the two wires are connected:


The yellow/red wire is from the starter button and the green/red wire is the ground wire that goes through the clutch diode. These two wires energize the starter solenoid internal coil that allows power to go to the starter.

Here is a schematic of how the wiring is to be connected to the starter solenoid:


The green/red and yellow/red wires can be on either terminal. The red and red/white wire can be on either terminal as well. However, the green/red and yellow/red wires cannot go on the red and red/white wire terminals. The red and red/white wire terminals are live at all times.

Check the starter solenoid terminals with a multimeter so that you know which terminals are live with the ignition switch off. These two terminals are for the red and red/white wires. The 30 amp fuse must be installed before you check the starter solenoid terminals.

Where the 30 amp fuse is is where the dog bone fuse is located. Silver Dave has given good info regarding connecting the blade fuse holder to the starter solenoid.

Hope this helps.
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest

Jbone90
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Re: Changing dog bone fuse

Post by Jbone90 » Sat Aug 25, 2018 5:04 pm

Thanks guys for the detailed response. Very informative and detailed.

For some reason I'm still not sure what to do, sorry to say I'm such a novice. I've attached a few pictures so hope this may help.

Giving the photos I've attached, I've heard of people using a new inline fuse as I first posted and joining the 4 wires together. But maybe I'm just misunderstanding.

Old connector that attached to dogbone fuse - melted
Old connector that attached to dogbone fuse - melted


Cut fuse wires from connector
Cut fuse wires from connector


Old dogbone fuse
Old dogbone fuse

Rednaxs60 wrote:
Sat Aug 25, 2018 11:38 am
Jbone90 wrote:
Sat Aug 25, 2018 10:05 am
The wires you described are correct. I will try and get a picture. The new blade fuse holder only has two wires. Not sure which order to solder the old wires together to the new wires in order for a successful circuit
Rednaxs60 wrote:
Sat Aug 25, 2018 9:15 am
What 4 wires are you talking about? Picture would be good. Are you talking about the red, red/white, green/red and yellow/red wires? The dog bone fuse should be on the starter solenoid and you should be able to remove the dog bone fuse and connect the blade fuse holder to the dog bone fuse connections.
The wires I mention do not get soldered together. The red wire is for power to the ignition circuit when staring the engine, the red/white wire is from the regulator to replenish the battery after starting and if the battery provides supplemental power to the electrical system during operation. These two wires are connected together in the wiring harness about 1/2 way between the battery and regulator/rectifier. This schematic illustrates where the two wires are connected:gl1200 charger.JPG

The yellow/red wire is from the starter button and the green/red wire is the ground wire that goes through the clutch diode. These two wires energize the starter solenoid internal coil that allows power to go to the starter.

Here is a schematic of how the wiring is to be connected to the starter solenoid:Starter Solenoid Wiring.jpgThe green/red and yellow/red wires can be on either terminal. The red and red/white wire can be on either terminal as well. However, the green/red and yellow/red wires cannot go on the red and red/white wire terminals. The red and red/white wire terminals are live at all times.

Check the starter solenoid terminals with a multimeter so that you know which terminals are live with the ignition switch off. These two terminals are for the red and red/white wires. The 30 amp fuse must be installed before you check the starter solenoid terminals.

Where the 30 amp fuse is is where the dog bone fuse is located. Silver Dave has given good info regarding connecting the blade fuse holder to the starter solenoid.

Hope this helps.

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Maz
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Re: Changing dog bone fuse

Post by Maz » Sun Aug 26, 2018 4:18 am

The dog-bone fuse is simply the strip of metal behind the flap marked 'Fuse'. This can be replaced with an inline blade fuse, as a few people have detailed above. There is no reason to cut off the 4-way connector, as you have, just to replace that fuse.
Maz
Ironically, Common Sense is the LEAST common of all senses!

Jbone90
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Re: Changing dog bone fuse

Post by Jbone90 » Sun Aug 26, 2018 9:48 am

I had to cut the connector off because the connector melted along with the wires.
Maz wrote:
Sun Aug 26, 2018 4:18 am
The dog-bone fuse is simply the strip of metal behind the flap marked 'Fuse'. This can be replaced with an inline blade fuse, as a few people have detailed above. There is no reason to cut off the 4-way connector, as you have, just to replace that fuse.
Maz

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Maz
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1976 CB500T
1979 CB750L
1990 Yamaha FJ1200
1993 Suzuki GS500E

Re: Changing dog bone fuse

Post by Maz » Tue Aug 28, 2018 3:39 am

Jbone90 wrote:
Sun Aug 26, 2018 9:48 am
I had to cut the connector off because the connector melted along with the wires.
Maz wrote:
Sun Aug 26, 2018 4:18 am
The dog-bone fuse is simply the strip of metal behind the flap marked 'Fuse'. This can be replaced with an inline blade fuse, as a few people have detailed above. There is no reason to cut off the 4-way connector, as you have, just to replace that fuse.
Maz
Apologies, I didn't see that. If you can't get a replacement connector (maybe get a used loom from a wreckers or ebay and cut the connector off, leaving a few inches of wire to solder/shrink wrap onto the good wire) you could just crimp 4 separate spade connectors on the remaining wires and plug them onto the corresponding terminals on the solenoid.
Maz


Ironically, Common Sense is the LEAST common of all senses!

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