While staticly running the bike

[jaimenv]

I noticed the wiring harness plug to the voltage regulator being just as hot as the voltage regulator .
Upon close inspection I noted the tell tale signs of excessive resistance, see 1st pic. Once I separated the plug it was obvious, see melted plastic on the plug and corrosion on the male pin.

Question I am leaning in to hard wire (solder) the 3 yellow wires, or should I do the complete plug meaning all the wires.

Thanks in advance.

[Aussie81Interstate]

That plug is how many years old? - and has finally succumbed to some corrosion on a few pins - I would probably get new plug ends - then disassemble the wires from the plug - re terminate if the plug ends are shot. put into the new plug and then pack with that fancy dielectric grease, or I would spray some lanoshield on the plug.. then good for another umpteen years.

[jaimenv]

I did not take in consideration, how long it has lasted.
Figure this is one of the reasons the PO got rid of the bike.
The connector at the left side of the battery was toast. It is surprising the stator is still working.
When I got the bike it had incandescent fork lights on both sides/fog lights and side markers.
The clutch diode was burnt/conducting in both directions.
I have been removing all the added lights/wiring and a not working radio. I am going to replace all the light bulbs I can with LED ones, in the hopes that the stator will last a bit longer.

Well I just puller all 3 yellow wires from both plugs, cleaned the terminals best I could and soldered them outside the plug. The wires/terminals that remained in the plug, I cleaned and greased them up with dielectric grease.
There is a hole between the two adjacent yellow wires in the plug, where the plastic just melted.
The bike had all the added wiring done by twisting the wires together and wrapped with electrical tape. All of this connections where corroded green and the electrical tape was coming undone.

[Aussie81Interstate]

Sounds like you have a pretty good idea how to fix things - so as long as the stator wires have been soldered outside the plug - then no need to do anything else. When I have done mine previously I made sure I double heat shrinked those wires - to be sure to be sure. The only problem is if you ever need to drop the motor - you get to cut and re solder the wires.

Glad you were able to get the pins out and also clean the others.

PO's should sometimes be held up against a wall and sprayed with tar and feathers... but how long ago were all the farkles added anyway. Probably not recent by the sound of things. If the diode was burnt - it would not have worked - diode passes one way only - and sometimes caused by hooking up power the wrong way.

Did you solder the terminals together or strip back to clean wire and solder wire to wire - not terminal to terminal?? I would only solder clean wire to clean wire - you then take out all the corrosion hidden under the terminal crimps, if need be - add some additional wire if you do not have enough to join directly.

Cheers

maybe a photo of your new connection as well..

[jaimenv]

WP_20190407_09_38_10_Pro.jpg

For the 3 yellow wires, then since I didn't have heat shrink large enough to fit over the terminals I used liquid insulation, sort of messy but gets the job done, then I just wrapped with electrical tape.
I am going to get some sleeve's to put over the wires later. I am going to test and see if the wires still get hot. if they do then I will cut the terminals and solder direct to the wires.

This is the stator wires at the battery area they where solder direct to the wires and heat shrink then wrapped with electrical tape. They barely get warm when running.

Made me a diode holder so to replace the original one that failed.

[jaimenv]

It checked out very good. None of the yellow wires got anywhere close to yesterday.
The voltage regulator is a very hot running item.
So I am going to leave it as is and just add more insulation around the 3 yellow wire.

On a side note I am now getting a 14v reading at the battery opposite to 12+, seems like plenty charging output from the stator. No fluctuation when accelerating/bliping the gas.

Here's a picture of the guts of the diode holder.
Diodes where .53 cents each.
Fuese holder 4.00
Burnt fuse guts, to solder diode.
Terminals/heat shrink I had from earlier projects.
Also no local automotive parts store stock any diodes.

[DaveO430]

I am going to replace all the light bulbs I can with LED ones, in the hopes that the stator will last a bit longer.

.

The load on the stator doesn't change when you reduce the load on the system. The less power you use the hotter the regulator gets.

[jaimenv]

The load on the stator doesn't change when you reduce the load on the system. The less power you use the hotter the regulator gets.

Darn it.
Will a aluminum plate bolted/sandwiched between the bracket and the voltage regulator help, absorb some of the heat. I noticed how hot the steel frame mounting bracket gets.

Or is there a voltage regulator upgrade of sorts.
I really will like to stay within the K.I.S.S. Method.

[Aussie81Interstate]

That all looks pretty good - I would suggest your stator is OK if the bike is producing 14v, at most running speeds- you would notice a drop if just idling with high beam on, front and rear bakes on, blinker flashing..

cheers