Two things - One; the starter I’m pretty sure is toast! Going to do the rebuild and see if I can bring it back to life. There’s a link to the pictures too posted below in a secondary post
Second since I’ve already been through most of this old girl, figured I’d do the belts too. I dropped a video of what the belts in mine look like, pretty sure they’re screwed too Lots of slack and the springs which hold the tensioner pulley’s are fully extended so yeah.
Here’s the video - id love some input from the forum on what y’all think!
Nate
I don't have a GL1200 and never have but have worked on a few.
The timing belts are not unlike the timing belts in the GL1500. They do stretch slightly over a period of years. That slack in your belts is normal after years of use. I there is supposed to be 5 - 7 mm of slack along the long portion of the belt between the sheaves when the idlers are properly set. That is how you can tell you have the tension correct. There is no telling when they were replaced last so now is as a good a time as any to get that done. If I were you, I would also replace the timing belt adjuster idlers. They may be original. They sell for about $75 each. Cheap insurance.
You commented about the idlers springs. Don't have to worry about them. The purpose of the spring is to maintain pressure on the belt when the idler mounting bolt is loosened. That is what sets the proper tension on the belt when you install them, or at least that is what I have been told. Once the idler is tightened down, that spring is serving no purpose.
One more thing, if you do not already have a factory service manual, you need to get one.
Your starter is fine - it needs New Brushes - that's for sure. A good clean up on the gears and a good grease - they are a bit dry. Definitely need to probably pull out the whole armature and give it a good scrub, and the commutator will need a clean up and then to check with a multi meter all the segments of the commutator.
Put it back together and no need to touch it for several more years..
Cheers
PS mine was very similar when I pulled it apart - and worked 500% better when fixed.
Your starter is fine - it needs New Brushes - that's for sure. A good clean up on the gears and a good grease - they are a bit dry. Definitely need to probably pull out the whole armature and give it a good scrub, and the commutator will need a clean up and then to check with a multi meter all the segments of the commutator.
Put it back together and no need to touch it for several more years..
Cheers
PS mine was very similar when I pulled it apart - and worked 500% better when fixed.
Yup, I didn't touch on that in my earlier reply but what he says is what I believe to be true. Clean it up, replace the brushes, grease it, put it together and it should be fine unless you find any electrical issues while working on it.
By the way, remove the spark plugs while you are working on the timing belts. It will make it a lot easier to rotate the crank shaft while you position the cam shafts.
Your starter is fine - it needs New Brushes - that's for sure. A good clean up on the gears and a good grease - they are a bit dry. Definitely need to probably pull out the whole armature and give it a good scrub, and the commutator will need a clean up and then to check with a multi meter all the segments of the commutator.
Put it back together and no need to touch it for several more years..
Cheers
PS mine was very similar when I pulled it apart - and worked 500% better when fixed.
The screws holding the windings inside the starter are bloody tight, going to soak them in some PB Blaster and see if they’ll loosen up - Ordered a starter rebuild kit after I pulled that girl apart so hopefully that will solve that.
Pulling the Armature should prove to be interesting if I can’t get the screws out
MikeB wrote: ↑Tue Jun 04, 2019 5:09 pm
By the way, remove the spark plugs while you are working on the timing belts. It will make it a lot easier to rotate the crank shaft while you position the cam shafts.
Yup! Did that already, ordered new plugs to go with the Neon coil modification too
TheRepoGuy wrote: ↑Tue Jun 04, 2019 5:10 pm
The screws holding the windings inside the starter are bloody tight, going to soak them in some PB Blaster and see if they’ll loosen up - Ordered a starter rebuild kit after I pulled that girl apart so hopefully that will solve that.
Pulling the Armature should prove to be interesting if I can’t get the screws out
Appreciate the advice though!
Get one of the hammer blow type screwdrivers, it rotates when the hammer strikes the anvil head. this helps to break loose the rust/tension.
Unless the bearings need to be replaced, it may not be necessary to pull the armature. Have you tried it in the engine at all? Did it rotate the engine? It appears that the commutator can be cleaned up and the brushes replaced without taking it any further apart.
MikeB wrote: ↑Tue Jun 04, 2019 7:15 pm
Unless the bearings need to be replaced, it may not be necessary to pull the armature. Have you tried it in the engine at all? Did it rotate the engine? It appears that the commutator can be cleaned up and the brushes replaced without taking it any further apart.
It TRIED to spin the motor over; my guess is between the battery being a little weak and the crud inside of it that it needs an overhaul anyway so that’s what’s on the agenda
There is a proper way of setting belt tension, it is not the springs. They just serve as extra hands while you work. Setting tension involves adjusting deflection on long run with a weight or scale. Too tight, they'll sing. Too loose, they'll flap.
I would take the idlers off, spin them and listen / feel for smoothness. If smooth, no rattles, still run true, I'd use them. Set properly, there's not a huge load on them.
Absolutely no need to remove the windings. Nothing in there. Caution, be very careful with the power in post. You can easily break the connection inside.
Lots of slack and the springs which hold the tensioner pulley’s are fully extended so yeah. 
