Ford Starter Solenoid Adaptation

[TheRepoGuy]

Back again between forums! Changing things up since I have two aftermarket solenoids that are crap! I bought a Solenoid for an 1989 F150 to add into the bike.

Four wires off the OE solenoid plug;
Red/White tracer - 12v
Solid red - 12v
Yellow/Red from the start switch
Green/Red for the ground

Solenoid is marked S I on two smaller terminals then has the two bigger terminals. I’d gather if I do this wiring correctly, both 12v go to the bigger terminals, the yellow/red to the “I” terminal and the starter wire to the “S”

Does that sound right?

[virgilmobile]

Battery to one big terminal.30 amp fuse from there to both big red wires.
Starter to the other big terminal.
From there..there's conflicting information..
Some solenoids use only one terminal to make it click and the solenoid case is ground.(no neutral safety)
Another shows one small terminal makes it click when the case is grounded and the second terminal has volts on it during cranking.
Yet another shows one small terminal to make it click and the second terminal goes to ground(the neutral safety).

I certainly suggest testing before you install.
Apply volts to the small terminal with the mount grounded and see if it clicks.

[DenverWinger]

In order to make this one work with the neutral safety you could mount it to a small sheet of plastic to insulate it from ground, your yellow/red from start switch to the "S" terminal. Then connect your green/red to the mounting tab of the relay. The "I" (Ignition) terminal not used on the bike.

[Rambozo]

Instead of a Ford unit you can get a golf cart solenoid. They have the two coil terminals instead of a case ground. As a bonus they are rated for continuous duty. (Not that it makes a difference for a starting circuit)