I have never made a video before so apologies for the amatureness. I recently bought a GL 1200 1987 (got ripped off) it has been severely neglected. But enough whining, I am slowly fixing it up. I have just changed the steering head bearings (was easier than I expected it to be) But decided to change the fork oil while I was at it. I watched a few videos on You Tube and was a bit worried about being able to replace the fork top bolt. It came off quite easily, (I was prepared for it to jump out so that went well) but after changing the oil I tried twice for an hour on my own to get the bolts back in but all that happend was I damaged my wrist joints and skinned my knuckles a few times.
So asked one of my boys to give me a hand and the first one went so well I thought I would ask the wife to film the second one, might help someone sometime if they are intending to change their fork oil.
Anyway here's a link showing how I did it.
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Fork top bolt replacement
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Bryan Harris
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Wed Apr 17, 2019 5:09 pm
- Location: Arnhem Netherlands
- Motorcycle: "1984 GL 1200 Interstate
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CrystalPistol
- Posts: 1421
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2010 9:07 pm
- Location: Shenandoah Valley of Virginia
- Motorcycle: 1997 GL1500SE/'98 Lehman Trike
Re: Fork top bolt replacement
Good job.
Yeah, them stock springs are long, but when I put progressives in mine, they being shorter & even stiffer, they were easier. I put bike on center stand, jack under front or wood blocks to just get the front tire up off floor, usually had reAr tire on floor, I used a 1/2" speed wrench (like a crank) with socket and have a 18-24" long 2x4 with a recess in center to cradle speed wrench knob, stand on foot pegs, hold board up on wrench knob, put chest against the 2x4 and just press with upper body as hands handled the crank & that top or cap nut.
Helped buddy with his, his had OEM springs, was easier with fork tubes off bike and tube held up in a bucket by buddy. After we got caps in place, then installed tubes in triple trees.
Only additional, would have been a great time to drill & tap fork caps for plugs, make fork oil changes easier.
I liked the FF helmet.
Yeah, them stock springs are long, but when I put progressives in mine, they being shorter & even stiffer, they were easier. I put bike on center stand, jack under front or wood blocks to just get the front tire up off floor, usually had reAr tire on floor, I used a 1/2" speed wrench (like a crank) with socket and have a 18-24" long 2x4 with a recess in center to cradle speed wrench knob, stand on foot pegs, hold board up on wrench knob, put chest against the 2x4 and just press with upper body as hands handled the crank & that top or cap nut.
Helped buddy with his, his had OEM springs, was easier with fork tubes off bike and tube held up in a bucket by buddy. After we got caps in place, then installed tubes in triple trees.
Only additional, would have been a great time to drill & tap fork caps for plugs, make fork oil changes easier.
I liked the FF helmet.
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Bryan Harris
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Wed Apr 17, 2019 5:09 pm
- Location: Arnhem Netherlands
- Motorcycle: "1984 GL 1200 Interstate
Re: Fork top bolt replacement
CrystalPistol, thanks.
Hats off to you for doing it on your own.
I'm probably going to make a naked rat bike out of it seeing as it is already knackered, trying to spend as little on it as possible, so don't really want to invest in progressive springs yet and because i'm not planning to put any plastic back on the original springs might be ok. But I like your idea about tapping the fork bolts to make changing the oil easier, i'll probably do that next time
Hats off to you for doing it on your own.
I'm probably going to make a naked rat bike out of it seeing as it is already knackered, trying to spend as little on it as possible, so don't really want to invest in progressive springs yet and because i'm not planning to put any plastic back on the original springs might be ok. But I like your idea about tapping the fork bolts to make changing the oil easier, i'll probably do that next time