Installing Rear wheel after tire change-to pull or not to pull final drive

[sirgkm]

Good Day Gents and Ladies!

I used my Clymer Manual to remove the rear wheel in order to change the Rubber on Goldie. However, all the videos I have searched seem to have a different procedure than the manual I used. They say to disconnect the drive shaft and remove wheel-final drive as one unit, rather than do what manual said (and I did) which is remove the wheel from the final drive, leaving the final drive attached to drive shaft and on the bike.

Any advice? Any tricks to reinstalling the rear wheel onto the final drive or should that me removed and mated to the wheel off the bike?

Much obliged!

[WingAdmin]

Nothing wrong with leaving the final drive on. You just have to remove the spacers and brackets to the left of the wheel so that you can slide it far enough to disengage it from the output splines on the final drive. Installation is the reverse.

I will typically remove the final drive itself every other tire change, to re-lubricate the splines on the driveshaft.

[sirgkm]

awesome thanks for the reply! And lubricate with Honda Moly?

[WingAdmin]

awesome thanks for the reply! And lubricate with Honda Moly?

You got it!

[sirgkm]

My Dad would be impressed that his Goldwing is still running well

[CrystalPistol]

Had a 1200 from 1995-2019, whether removing the final drive or not, I always removed the wheel/tire by itself after pulling bags & etc … then removing the FD was just 4 nuts to remove & pull it, the drive shaft (& U-joint even) came out easily. Getting the tire/wheel out from between the LS swing arm & FD was easier with tire deflated.

There is a spacer in there too, not hard, easy press fit in FD.

When putting it together, place FD loosely in place if removed at all, the 4 nuts not tight.

Putting together … Make sure the U-joint is in place on the engine output shaft first I found it easiest siting on the floor on the right side of the 1200, drive shaft in final drive, use the final drive as my holder, angle/aim the drive shaft towards the front U-joint. Check with right finger inserted from front past rubber to make sure all engaged. I have done it with the U-joint on the shaft and guide the U-joint onto engine output shaft. Then spacer and wheel with FD adapter in place, then the hat looking spacers and caliper bracket and second hat spacer (brims against bracket) as feeding the axle in swing arm from L to R … then lastly tightening stuff to torque spec in a certain order only:
1 is tighten up axle nut,
2 is brake caliper to bracket bolts,
3 is left shock lower bolt making sure end get's in hole of bracket,
4 is axle nut on right side at final drive end of axle,
5 is axle pinch bolt on left side swing arm,
6 is the 4 nuts retaining the final drive to swing arm,
7 lastly is right side lower shock bolt.
This way the final drive is freely aligned with axle with no stress.
I don't know torque values, I let the books go with the bike.

[sirgkm]

Thanks for your timely response!!! Just waiting on Honda shop to change the rubber and I’m going to put back together!

[sirgkm]

Some pics of the job!