Rear brake lever mod/Ideas needed!!
- Totalchaos
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Fri Apr 17, 2020 3:16 pm
- Location: United States
- Motorcycle: 87 Gl1200a aspencade
Rear brake lever mod/Ideas needed!!
I have a 87 gl1200 great bike only got like 50k miles. But I have a odd problem. About 3 years ago I went threw Chemotherapy for colon cancer after 2 surgeries. The chemo left me with VERY bad nerve damage in both my feet and hands. From my knee down I have no feeling. I have a little trouble with the heal toe shifter but the more I ride the better I do with it. But the rear brake lever is a BIG problem for me with the running boards. I have read of folks doing away with the rear Master cylinder and using the front Master cylinder to run the front and rear. Is this a good idea? I had one idea of replacing the right side floorboard with the OEM foot rest to see if that would be a better fit for me. Or even flipping the rear brake lever over to where the lever went over the floor board instead of coming up under it. Any input, ideas, or a link to a site that might help will be appreciated.
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- Totalchaos
- Posts: 20
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- Location: United States
- Motorcycle: 87 Gl1200a aspencade
- CrystalPistol
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- Motorcycle: 1997 GL1500SE/'98 Lehman Trike
Re: Rear brake lever mod/Ideas needed!!
While I understand the neuropathy, it's not clear to me what the issue is. Is it a matter of finding the pedal … or a matter of lifting the foot to press it … or modulation of pressure?
I have seen modified brake pedals with the toe pad moved, etc, even extended arms. With floorboards, the heel rest is needed for the rider to modulate rear brake effort I think.
Example on a 1500: I haven't heard of anyone running all three brakes off the handlebar mounted master cylinder, I doubt it has the capacity required to move all the pistons sufficiently … and if it did … there would be no way to balance braking for a smooth safe stop in time of need. JMHO.
I have seen modified brake pedals with the toe pad moved, etc, even extended arms. With floorboards, the heel rest is needed for the rider to modulate rear brake effort I think.
Example on a 1500: I haven't heard of anyone running all three brakes off the handlebar mounted master cylinder, I doubt it has the capacity required to move all the pistons sufficiently … and if it did … there would be no way to balance braking for a smooth safe stop in time of need. JMHO.
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- Rednaxs60
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Re: Rear brake lever mod/Ideas needed!!
I'm with CrystalPistol on this. Haven't heard/read of anyone removing the rear MC and operating all three calipers from the front MC. In today's times insurance issues from modifying your brakes to this extent might be a nightmare. The pic of the 1500 rear brake lever was what I was thinking about something like an HD as well. I have a friend and at 71 he has some leg issues so he modified the rear brake lever of his Triumph Rocket to suit. The 1500 brake lever looks like a good alternative.
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- Totalchaos
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Fri Apr 17, 2020 3:16 pm
- Location: United States
- Motorcycle: 87 Gl1200a aspencade
Re: Rear brake lever mod/Ideas needed!!
All of the above the lifting,pressure, and just simply finding it!CrystalPistol wrote: ↑Thu Jun 18, 2020 8:29 pm While I understand the neuropathy, it's not clear to me what the issue is. Is it a matter of finding the pedal … or a matter of lifting the foot to press it … or modulation of pressure?
I have seen modified brake pedals with the toe pad moved, etc, even extended arms. With floorboards, the heel rest is needed for the rider to modulate rear brake effort I think.
Example on a 1500: Different brake pedal.jpg
I haven't heard of anyone running all three brakes off the handlebar mounted master cylinder, I doubt it has the capacity required to move all the pistons sufficiently … and if it did … there would be no way to balance braking for a smooth safe stop in time of need. JMHO.
I am going to try to bypass the rear Master and tie into the the brake line to the right front caliper. Simple T fitting and 2 compression fittings and like 4 inches of 1/4 steel brake line and a brass plug on the line to the left front.
Bleed the air out the lines and test her out.
Got a adjustable preportioning valve on the way to control the pressure to the front. (To stop the nose diving). I have the rubber brake lines and splitter so I can have both calipers on the front. I have a bigger bore right hand Master cylinder from a Honda super bike in case the OEM one can't make good pressure.
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