Hello, I just bought my 2nd 1985 limited yesterday and was not observant or diligent in checking it out. Charging issue.. Initially figured it was the stator because someone had already done the connector delete and did a great job soldering the wires. Figured wth and cut the 3yellow wires and tested, with stellar results! I had somewhere around 50-60VAC at idle and between 84-103 @3500rpm. No continuity to ground and each wire rings together. I'm going to assume stator is in good shape. Going to the rectifier, first thing I noticed was the plastic wire loom they used was melted somewhat and the area just looked like it had gotten too hot. Where the good soldered joints ended up was a hodge podge of wirenuts and some kind of other weird terminations due to someone cutting the rectifier terminal plug off both sides. The rectifier smells like a bad fluorescent ballast. Definitely isn't in working condition. But I don't see a way to test it....I just know from experience that that smell means fried electrical components. Is it better to get a used one OEM or go ahead and get like a Rick's replacement? Any advice will be appreciated .
There's a way to test the diodes in the rectifier section, but testing the regulator part is usually in-circuit, it either works correctly or doesn't. If there's a fault in either section you have to replace the entire unit anyway.
You could check the regulator wiring for continuity - Green wires go to ground, red wires go to battery Pos terminal, you've already addressed the yellow wires, and the black wire (voltage sense) comes from the ignition switch, should have 12v with key on.
If all this checks out, I'd look for an aftermarket Rec/Reg with the newer MOSFET technology. Some are made "Plug-and-play" for GW. You need to find one rated for 500 watts or better.
A local inventor has figured a way to turn a sausage grinder backward to manufacture pigs.
♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫
♫ Take one down, Patch it around, ♪
♫ 127 Little Bugs in the Code. ♫ ♪
~Mark
Thanks for your reply, my thinking is like you stated....it either worksvor it doesn't. The part I'm unsure of though I shouldn't be is that if the rectifier doesn't work then it doesn't matter if the stator works or not. Right? I'm usually just not confident in mechanical work been an electrician for almost 30 years lol and I still have little confidence when working on something outside of that. When you refer to newer mosfet technology....what does that mean? They did away with the diodes? Also what would be the general consideration on replacement? There are a few OEM options on fleabay but they don't seem to have any kind of warranty and are used. Or I'm also looking at a Rick's unit. I learned after replacing the stator on my Suzuki intruder 1500 that it's better to get better quality the first time and avoid the hassle again thanks for your reply
The Rick's Motorsport replacements are a good choice, they offer a standard unit and a "Hot Shot" unit for the '85 LTD, the Hot Shot being the one with MOSFET technology.
Both have a plain old three-phase diode bridge for the Rectifier section, but the Regulators are different. The 'Standard' regulator regulator maintains proper voltage by shunting excess current to ground loading the stator to full output at all times and engine speeds. The MOSFET regulator works differently, only "allowing" the necessary current into the bike's system to maintain correct voltage. These regulators run much cooler, and are less of a load on the stator. Worth the additional $ in my opinion.
A local inventor has figured a way to turn a sausage grinder backward to manufacture pigs.
♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫
♫ Take one down, Patch it around, ♪
♫ 127 Little Bugs in the Code. ♫ ♪
~Mark
That would help greatly. It has 2 red wires and a ground coming out of it. Its hooked 1 red wire to each of the red/white wires coming off the rectifier. And a ground. It doesn't really look stock to me. Hopefully I'll get a ship date on new rectifier today. I don't plan on reinstalling this thing unless someone says it belongs there
Had one on mine. Asked the same question. Agree with DenverWinger that it is probably a noise filter similar to what we used to do on late model cars years ago to improve stereo performance.
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"
"My '85 FI model is not a project bike, it's my retirement career"
Ernest
I installed the rectifier I got from Rick's but unfortunately I didn't read the mosfet technology information until afterwards but it's doing its thing and I'm getting 14.1-14.3 on voltmeter! So far so good. I used butt splices for now I know I shouldn't have but I gotta get further in due to the fact the previous owner actually rerouted the stator wires from the harness yet left them in the harness if that makes sense. They ran 3 new wires from stator to rectifier. So I have to do something about how doggone short they cut the red/white wires or just reroute some new ones so I can get enough to solder .
. Initially figured it was the stator because someone had already done the connector delete and did a great job soldering the wires. Figured wth and cut the 3yellow wires and tested, with stellar results! I had somewhere around 50-60VAC at idle and between 84-103 @3500rpm. No continuity to ground and each wire rings together. I'm going to assume stator is in good shape. Going to the rectifier, first thing I noticed was the plastic wire loom they used was melted somewhat and the area just looked like it had gotten too hot
. Where the good soldered joints ended up was a hodge podge of wirenuts and some kind of other weird terminations due to someone cutting the rectifier terminal plug off both sides. The rectifier smells like a bad fluorescent ballast. Definitely isn't in working condition. But I don't see a way to test it....I just know from experience that that smell means fried electrical components. Is it better to get a used one OEM or go ahead and get like a Rick's replacement? Any advice will be appreciated 
.
but it's doing its thing and I'm getting 14.1-14.3 on voltmeter! So far so good. I used butt splices for now
I know I shouldn't have but I gotta get further in due to the fact the previous owner actually rerouted the stator wires from the harness yet left them in the harness if that makes sense. They ran 3 new wires from stator to rectifier. So I have to do something about how doggone short they cut the red/white wires or just reroute some new ones so I can get enough to solder .