Brake and Clutch refurb

[tbeiler]

Decided to go full monty with the brakes and clutch. Hasn't been done since I owned the bike, other than new pads from 2 years ago and new fluid also 2 years ago.
Put in new pistons and seals on all three calipers, deep clean on all the seal grooves, as well and new rear master cylinder and front brake master cylinder. The rear master cylinder was a bit of a bugger to get out, I almost stripped the one nut holding the steel brake line in, the second one came out no problem. I decided to move the rear wheel back a bit as my wrench just wouldn't allow it to go over the nut 100% and didn't want to strip it. Glad I moved it, then I could actually get some leverage and get the nut off. It was on super tight.
Today I put Dot 4 in the rear reservoir, couldn't believe how quick it went, did the rear brake first, then the linked front right. All air out of system, glad I put the speed bleeders in a few years back.
Got a good hard foot pedal now.

Also put a new clutch master cylinder in. There was lots of gunk in the reservoir. Also put in a new brass bushing on the lever.
The old one was pretty worn out.
Primed the system, got clean fluid coming out of the slave cylinder. Also a speed bleeder back there.
The lever still seems to move too easy. I think there should be a bit more resistance.
If there was air in the system, wouldn't it get pushed out when I bled the system.
Not sure why I can't get a bit more resistance on the lever. I think the air is all out, but maybe not.
Any ideas?

[Rambozo]

Check that the clutch fully releases. If it does you got it all, if not bleed some more. Not sure a speed bleeder on a clutch is going to work properly as there isn't the kind of pressure there is on a brake circuit. The check valve spring in the bleeder might be too firm to get all the air out of the clutch. I've never tried so YMMV.

[tbeiler]

Will bleed it a bit more, thanks.

[the_big_h]

Don't try and start it with it in gear until you know the clutch is working OK, else you might have a good start on putting a door in the back wall of your garage. With air in the clutch, pulling the clutch lever will make the switch allowing the engine to start, but might not actually be disengaging the clutch.
Of course, if you are prepared for it to lurch ahead, and have the kill switch off, cranking it in gear with the clutch lever pulled in will tell you if it's disengaging the clutch or not.

[Rednaxs60]

Need to refurb the clutch slave as well. Could be some crud in the seals. Speedbleeder works well on the clutch system. Have them installed on the brake calipers and clutch slave of my '85 Limited edition.

Tony - been a while. Trust all is well. Cheers

[tbeiler]

So just after my post, went to garage and lo and behold, the clutch now works perfect.
Was reading on this forum last night that turning the steering to far right and twist tying the clutch lever tight to the grip will get rid of any excess air in the system, so went out last night to tie the lever back to the grip and turn steering far right.
Pulled the cover off the reservoir first thing, pumped the lever a bit more and more air came out.
Now clutch is working very good.
Thanks.