stator testing


Information and questions on GL1200 Goldwings (1984-1987)
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86 goldwing
Posts: 56
Joined: Tue May 14, 2019 3:50 pm
Location: ontario canada
Motorcycle: 1986 gl1200 a

stator testing

Post by 86 goldwing »



ok sorry for a new post on an old subject
i know there is a lot of info here on this but i am a little confused
just did a ohm test on the stator gl 1200
with the wires cut off and just reading straight from the stator
i get a reading of 0.03 on each of the yellow wires
the thread i read says i should be getting 3 ohms on each wire
so does that me the meter should be reading 3.00 or 0.03 like my meter shows
my meter is set at 200 olms
any help would be much appreciated


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Rambozo
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Motorcycle: 1992 GL1500 Aspencade
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Re: stator testing

Post by Rambozo »

Typical multimeters do not do low ohms very well. And that is not a good value test for a stator, more of a go, no-go. If any coils are open or shorted, the stator is junk.
With the yellow wires disconnected, check each yellow wire to ground, you should get a very high resistance or open circuit.
If that passes, then with those wires positioned where they will not touch ground or each other, start the bike and measure between the yellow wires.
Lets call them a, b, c
Measure a-b, b-c, a-c. With the engine running 2000 rpm or so you should see an AC voltage of around 70 volts between pairs. The main thing is to see that they all produce about the same voltage, the exact value isn't critical as it is unregulated at this point.
If that passes, your stator is good.
86 goldwing
Posts: 56
Joined: Tue May 14, 2019 3:50 pm
Location: ontario canada
Motorcycle: 1986 gl1200 a

Re: stator testing

Post by 86 goldwing »

hey rambozo thanks for the info
ok so got home from work and did the ac check
at 2600 rpm I get a reading of 35 volts at each yellow
at about 3100 rpm I get a reading of 40 volts across the board
sure is a far cry from 70 volts but not being a electrical pro by any means
i have no idea if this is good or bad
and if the stator readings are good then why is it not producing a charge
i am on my second voltage regulator
first one melted the wires after about 10 minutes of idle
second one wire got hot but not hot enough to melt the wires
and that was a good 20 minutes of idling
yoyr feed back would be greatly appreciated again
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Rambozo
Posts: 1227
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Location: Disneyland
Motorcycle: 1992 GL1500 Aspencade
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Re: stator testing

Post by Rambozo »

When you are AC measuring, you are measuring between two yellow wires, not a yellow to ground?
Your stator sounds good. It obviously is making power, enough to melt wires. It sounds like your regulator/rectifier is not right.
Time to check all the wiring between the two. Also have you eliminated the connector for the three yellow wires? That connector always melts and is just not up to the task. Better to just solder those wires together.
There are a few kinds of regulator/rectifiers. The stock type is a shunt regulator and it just makes the stator run at full power all the time, and turns any excess power into heat, by shorting it to ground. They work, but are pretty old tech. There are also cheap knockoffs, that don't always work, or burn out quickly. I don't have any current experience with those systems, as the last one I had was a real long time ago. I know there are brands to get and ones to avoid. Maybe someone could chime in with some current info.
Then there are Series regulators, they limit the power the stator makes by turning it off and on very quickly and makes everything run quite a bit cooler. The only downside is they are not cheap. Again I can't tell you what brands are good and bad, but I'm sure some searching of forums will fill you in.
Focke-Wulf190
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Location: Midland, Michigan
Motorcycle: 1977 BMW R100S

Re: stator testing

Post by Focke-Wulf190 »

In 2017 I replaced A Stator on a 1984 standard (65k miles) for a friend, I was also doing head gaskets and valve stem seals when I had the engine pulled. I sourced a series type regulator from roadstercycle.com it was a SH847.
It runs way cooler than the stock shunt type. It works so well I installed one on my 1985 interstate.
Your bike should be putting out 70 vac @ 3000rpm, your individual phase windings are most likely starting to short together internally, that happens when the wires insulation starts to fail. You can periodically check the Stators ac voltage as you put on miles, it will eventually drop down so low that you will not to be able to keep the battery charged. If you decide to purchase a series regulator, I can post pictures of my mounting.
86 goldwing
Posts: 56
Joined: Tue May 14, 2019 3:50 pm
Location: ontario canada
Motorcycle: 1986 gl1200 a

Re: stator testing

Post by 86 goldwing »

thanks for the info focke
think i am going to do a poorboy conversion
hoping someone on here will chime in and give me a complete list of all parts needed
would save me a lot of time researching something that some one was smart enough to make a running list
have been reading a lot of posts on the subject and have finally burnt out both my retinas
taking a bit of a brake on the reading for now but will be back at it tomorrow evening after work
thanks to all in advance


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