Poor boy vs stator replacement


Information and questions on GL1200 Goldwings (1984-1987)
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kpritchett70
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Motorcycle: 1984 GL1200I

Poor boy vs stator replacement

Post by kpritchett70 »



I've got an 84 1200 interstate with 97000miles and a dead stator leg. I'm trying to decide the best option to repair/upgrade the charging system. I have read many post here and on other forums but they all seem several years old. I have a few questions and any help would be greatly appreciated.



1. Is there anyone here that has a poor boy conversion if so how do you like it for the long term?

2. Is there a source for the crank pulley? Does anyone make a kit if not I am confident I can fabricate the brackets and spacers needed for mounting and do the install.

3. Are the stator repair parts found on the internet any better than the original?

4. To anyone that has replaced the stator have you had any problems in the long term?

I have to do one or the other and just hate the idea of putting a ticking time bomb back in that can go off at any time and leave me stranded. Thanks for the help, recommendations, opinions etc in advance.


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Sassy
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Re: Poor boy vs stator replacement

Post by Sassy »

I did a stator replacement long ago and it wasn't a problem for the next severslr years of ownership.
It was a lotta work but it is just RnR bolts and pieces.
Ive never done a Porboy but it is different in that I believe it requires a slightly different skill set due to thd fabrication and problem solving required.
Whatever your decision good luck and post up your
experience.
Enjoying the Darkside
Fred
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Rambozo
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Re: Poor boy vs stator replacement

Post by Rambozo »

Replace the stator and swap the shunt regulator to a series regulator. Bomb defused. With a series regulator the stator will last forever.
kpritchett70
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Re: Poor boy vs stator replacement

Post by kpritchett70 »

Where can I find a series regulator? And is it a direct replacement?
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Rambozo
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Re: Poor boy vs stator replacement

Post by Rambozo »

http://roadstercycle.com/Roadstercycle% ... lators.htm
Replacement is pretty straight forward, but they need cool air and often won't fit in the stock location on old Wings. By now most stator wiring is in need of replacement anyway, so no big deal to rewire.
kpritchett70
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Re: Poor boy vs stator replacement

Post by kpritchett70 »

Thanks for the info.
kpritchett70
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Re: Poor boy vs stator replacement

Post by kpritchett70 »

Anyone have and idea how many amps the stator puts out?
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Rambozo
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Re: Poor boy vs stator replacement

Post by Rambozo »

kpritchett70 wrote: Tue Jan 24, 2023 8:32 pm Anyone have and idea how many amps the stator puts out?
About 25 amps @ 3000 rpm.
Unlike an alternator, with a stator and a shunt regulator, more is not better. You want to match the load as closely as possible with just a little extra to charge the battery.
the_big_h
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Re: Poor boy vs stator replacement

Post by the_big_h »

I had my engine out to fix a starter clutch issue, I noticed the OEM stator was slightly damaged so I replaced it with an aftermarket stator.
This aftermarket stator lasted less than 3000 km, providing the incentive to do a poorboy conversion (it's a lot of work to pull that engine!)
My fab skills are fairly high, I managed a really neat installation.
I was a bit disappointed in the results - when cold, it maintained 13.8 volts at 800RPM idle, but when hot it did not. The alternator was not spinning fast enough at idle.
In my installation I used an extra-small pulley on the alternator, and used the largest purchased pulley I could fit on the crankshaft. I used V-belt pulleys, not micro-V. I machined a stub shaft for crankshaft extension, to maintain perfect concentricity for this pulley.
I used 11mm wide belt because I couldn't find 10mm wide belt (I probably just didn't look hard enough). The 10mm belt would have run lower in the alternator pulley, and if I had machined up the crankshaft pulley from scratch I could have made it probably 10% larger diameter (because of the narrower width, especially if custom for 10mm wide belt), I think that would have worked better.

That's my experience.
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Rednaxs60
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Re: Poor boy vs stator replacement

Post by Rednaxs60 »

I use a 4” pulley on the crank, 2” on the alternator. 14.2 VDC always unless rad fan on. No issues when hot and my alternator is covered.

I do not connect to the battery. I have a power junction that everything connects to and is fed from.

I keep the RPM at 1000 +/- 100. Manual calls for 950 +/- 100

Good Luck
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"
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Rambozo
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Re: Poor boy vs stator replacement

Post by Rambozo »

the_big_h wrote: Wed Jan 25, 2023 12:48 pm I had my engine out to fix a starter clutch issue, I noticed the OEM stator was slightly damaged so I replaced it with an aftermarket stator.
This aftermarket stator lasted less than 3000 km, providing the incentive to do a poorboy conversion (it's a lot of work to pull that engine!)
My fab skills are fairly high, I managed a really neat installation.
I was a bit disappointed in the results - when cold, it maintained 13.8 volts at 800RPM idle, but when hot it did not. The alternator was not spinning fast enough at idle.
In my installation I used an extra-small pulley on the alternator, and used the largest purchased pulley I could fit on the crankshaft. I used V-belt pulleys, not micro-V. I machined a stub shaft for crankshaft extension, to maintain perfect concentricity for this pulley.
I used 11mm wide belt because I couldn't find 10mm wide belt (I probably just didn't look hard enough). The 10mm belt would have run lower in the alternator pulley, and if I had machined up the crankshaft pulley from scratch I could have made it probably 10% larger diameter (because of the narrower width, especially if custom for 10mm wide belt), I think that would have worked better.

That's my experience.
That is the main issue with alternator conversions. There just isn't enough room for the normal drive system. Most alternators need to spin at about 2,400 rpm at idle, have their maximum output above 6,000 rpm, and should never exceed 18,000 rpm. So for your 800 rpm idle you would want a 3:1 drive ratio, but your 8,000 redline would limit you to 2.25:1. Your typical alternator has about a 2" plus V pulley, so that needs a minimum 4.5" crank pulley. A micro-v could shrink them a bit, but the best would probably be a timing belt.
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Ohara
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Re: Poor boy vs stator replacement

Post by Ohara »

Did my poor boy conversion on my 86 Aspencade a few years back. I enjoy the peace of mind I have knowing that where ever I go I am Not at the mercy of a stator failure. Either way you go it will require some work, good luck with your project.
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MNAspencade
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1985 Gl1200 Aspencade - sold

Re: Poor boy vs stator replacement

Post by MNAspencade »

On my former gl1200 I used to notice a dimming of lights when coming to stops at night (at idle). Then the stator went belly up. I decided to do the poorboy conversion. Did lots of research on the forums. the only outside work I needed done was having the alternator bracket welded (a local muffler shop did it for free :) ). There is a bit of work to it but there is a fair bit of info on the various forums. I went with a ribbed belt and pulleys. the pulley was from a racing supplier. the belt was wider than the pulleys but I carefully cut it down to width. there are some fan and fan bracket adjustments to be made but not overly difficult. depending on the alternator you may have to bend some fairing plastic slightly. I used a heat gun and slow and gentle persuasion. No painting required. And of course some wiring. I was very happy with the results - no more light dimming...
Worked flawlessly for years until sold then the new owner ran it for a few and sold it still going strong. So I highly recommend the poorboy conversion. this might be of help viewtopic.php?f=12&t=41289&p=255120#p255120
FreeWing
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Re: Poor boy vs stator replacement

Post by FreeWing »

Have an 84 GL1200 with the PoorBoy conversion. It was completed before I purchased the bike.

For the years I’ve owned it, I replaced the alternator just once with a new unit from a 3 cylinder Geo Metro. It has been flawless. Highly recommended.
kpritchett70
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Re: Poor boy vs stator replacement

Post by kpritchett70 »

Has anyone used or considered a thin aftermarket electric fan?
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Rednaxs60
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Re: Poor boy vs stator replacement

Post by Rednaxs60 »

I use an 1800 rad fan, very slim and works fine.
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"
"My '85 FI model is not a project bike, it's my retirement career"
Ernest
kpritchett70
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Re: Poor boy vs stator replacement

Post by kpritchett70 »

Rednaxs60 wrote: Thu Feb 02, 2023 9:41 am I use an 1800 rad fan, very slim and works fine.
How did you mount it?
Paulmason
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Re: Poor boy vs stator replacement

Post by Paulmason »

I fitted the Poorboy kit approx 6 years ago, such a brilliant idea. There are plenty of tutorials on youtube etc on how to carry out this procedure & suitable pulley & alternator choices. I am not overly mechanically minded, just took my time, used reference material & it turned out fine. Would definetely recommend.
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Rednaxs60
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Re: Poor boy vs stator replacement

Post by Rednaxs60 »

kpritchett70 wrote: Thu Feb 02, 2023 5:27 pm
Rednaxs60 wrote: Thu Feb 02, 2023 9:41 am I use an 1800 rad fan, very slim and works fine.
How did you mount it?
Will probably be taking the rad out in the near future. Will take a picture and post.


"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"
"My '85 FI model is not a project bike, it's my retirement career"
Ernest
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