1985 Goldwing Limited Edition Poorboy wiring question.

[aspencade.sei]

I am wanting to do a 1985 LTD conversion on my 2nd LTD but from my emails years ago with Don and some bits and bobs of info online the LTD install of the Poorboy requires a different wiring to work.

Does anyone know what is different and maybe even have some documentation on the different ways it is installed?

Or anyone with a Poorboy-equipped LTD has the information they can share?

Thanks

[Rednaxs60]

The "Poorboy" install is a tight fit on the '85 Limited Edition. The TPS is a consideration, is real close to the alternator. The rear of the alternator will be close to #2 injector. Will have to remove the alternator any time you want to access the left front fuel rail for whatever - get good at doing this after a while. The left lower fairing will need to be "punched" out a bit, but this will not be noticeable once done:

Challenge anyone to tell me there is a "Poorboy" install behind the lower fairing.

The brackets can be made from 1" angle:

Try to find a power steering pump pulley from an early model Prelude, 1986 vintage, for the crank pulley. The spacer from the timing belt pulleys to the alt crank pulley is approximately 1 1/16 inch. Aluminum bar stock cut to fit and drilled to suit bolt. Add about 1 1/4 inch to the length of the existing crank bolt. The crank pulley I have as mentioned is an interference fit on the crank bolt and when torque to spec, never moves.

Two alternators to considered. A "one" wire. This alternator connects to the system and uses the output cable to sense the electrical system voltage. You can route an 8 gauge cable to the positive of the battery for ease of install.

The other is a "three" wire alternator the needs a "sense" wire and field excitation wire - I use this one - 50 amp. You can also have an idiot light connected like a car install. More wiring considerations with the "three" wire alt install:

Both alternators will charge at 14.3 VDC (internal regulator reference voltage) at idle speed of 1000 RPM.

Make sure you disconnect the existing stator and RR from the electrical system, and protect the wires that a will be live all the time, or when the key is turned to the ON position. Don't need a conflict.

Other than these basics, take your time and you'll do a good job.

Good luck.

[aspencade.sei]

Well, a lot of information but none of it is about my question. I have his PDF on the kit and even some info in an email direct from him so that is the question.

How is the Don Pigott poorboy kit wired differently on the LTD vs the other GL1200s?

[Rednaxs60]

Oops on the response. Wiring is a personal issue. Are you going to use a one wire alternator or a three wire alternator? Do you want to remove the existing stator wiring in the OEM wiring harness? Are you removing the RR? Lots of questions depending on what you want to do.

I removed the stator and RR from my bike. Removed the stator and RR wiring. I rewired the bike to suit the new install. Installed a "power junction" where the RR used to be. Alternator power goes to this junction and is split off to where it is needed. One wire goes to the battery, other wires are for items such as an accessory fuse box. Kept the red wire at the starter solenoid because this goes to the ignition switch.

You have probably noticed that there are 2 red/white wires at the RR and only one at the starter solenoid. The two red/white wires are joined together just after disappearing into the wiring harness, the same with the green ground wires.

Good luck.

[Dlegates]

I have a '86 Honda Gold Wing interstate going to do the poor boy conversion other than disconnecting the stator and removing the rectifier regulator do I need to do anything else to eliminate the factory charging system that does not work