1200 charging (not)

[Bbwelder]

1985 1200 not charging and 3 yellow wires are getting hot. Any ideas? Thanks

[WingAdmin]

First thing to do is check the condition of the master (dogbone) fuse. If it's blown or otherwise failed, the bike will start, but will not charge.

These fuses can look fine, but have hairline cracks that cause it to not work, sometimes intermittently.

If the bike is running but not charging, put a voltmeter across the main fuse. If you see 12 (or so) volts, then you've found your culprit.

[bustedwing]

Also check the wire connectors where those three yellow wires connect in the harness. I have seen bad connections there, some from using the wrong type or too light duty connector, create a lot of resistance and heat. The crimp type connectors with the blade in them are not designed for outdoor or high amp use.Corrision in this area will do the same thing. A good di-electric grease will keep out the dampness and not raise resistance.

[SilverDave]

Most 1200 users who have had Stator problems , just cut the three yellow wires, removing the dreadful 3 pronged plug , and hard solder them ( Western Union splice, and a really good solder joint ) with double or triple shrink wrap .
Remember , there is 75 to 85 volts AC running through there , and that little 3 pronged plug cannot take that sort of voltage , and eventually oxidizes, and increases the resistance..... heavy sigh... causing the stator to fail. Now you would be into the BIG BUCKS. The stator is only $160...installing it yourself will be most of a weekend .. or have Mother Honda install it for around $1000.

Some quality 1200 Stators here :

http://www.jcwhitney.com/rickxxs-motors ... ilTabPanel


But as long as you are searching for answers...

There is a Three-Part test for the stator, which you should do. If the stator is fried on one of its three branches, or is shorted out, it won't work very well.
A toasted stator will of course charge rather poorly. And also, a dying, or dead stator will often take your voltage reg / rect down with it, and there is another $150.

If your stator passes the three-part test, and if the reg/rect passes its test ( in the manual ) then it is not charging because of a circuit problem : Dogbone fuse, connections at rect, or at stator, resistance in the 3 yellow wires plug, a corroded or rusty ground strap against an equally rusty frame..... possibly the gods of motorcycling don't want you riding this month ....

If you have found your electrical problem, and the rest of your system checks out ok
( as in Stator and rect / reg are both healthy , and " Pass their tests" ) then you might consider this product :

http://www.electricalconnection.com/wir ... charge.htm

This item is a re-engineered harness for the 1200 stator, coils, and reg.. with much bigger wire. Installing this will keep a running GL1200 charging well, for years and years.

If your stator is indeed fried..... You might also consider a "poorboy " alternator installation : Much better , and cheaper than tearing the engine apart, and replacing the stator .


Good luck
SilverDave

[SilverDave]

Bb welder ....
Did you ever get your charging problems solved ??
( Inquiring minds want to know .....)
Silver

[tech1]

Hi Silver Dave
Is the poor boy repair the better way to go?

[virgilmobile]

1985 1200 not charging and 3 yellow wires are getting hot. Any ideas? Thanks

Going by exactly what you say,my first guess is that the rectifier/regulator is shorted.Possibly caused by corroded connectors in the charging wires.
Un plug it and test " by the book "

The fact that they get hot and it's not charging indicates that they are trying to dissipate a severe electrical load.
That should be done by the regulator heat sink,not the wires.

[SilverDave]

Tech1 wrote : "Is the PoorBoy the way to go " ??

Well.. not by me, but its like oil , or tires.. a matter of personal opinion.

With cleaning , cutting out the three wire plug, and soldering all my connections, and ground points, and adding a new larger gauge GL1200 wiring harness from Electrical Connections, I have managed with the original design of internal, oil bathed stator to keep it charging, flawlessly for 9 years , after the last " Sparkle " and I run lots of lights and accessories. And its now at 155,000 ... so ...

There are some of us who like the original parts of the FCW designs... dated,
but it gives a GL1200 " class".... I think ..

.... and last year I got my 1200 declared a 25 year " Classic " so it had to be almost stock to do that .

Also ...
I am not convinced that running an alt off pulleys and engine points not designed for that sort of 500watt load is a good long term idea.

---------------------------------------------
But :
on the other hand ... removing the entire engine and re and re a stator is a couple of weeks of work
if you are by yourself in a workshop, and certainly a Looooong weekend even if you have help.

( although I do have a friend who used to buy 1200's for a song, and " fix" their stators , and sell them for quite a profit ... and after doing 3 engines , he claimed he could do the entire job in 9 hours or less .. in and out !! wow!, I thought... but for you and me, the first one will take a lot longer than that . )

So if your stator completely and totally fails, and you like the idea of a replaceable alt, then indeed the Poorboy is the way to go.

They make quite small Denso Alternators 's that can fit in there, almost invisible, and give you lots of charging power, without distorting the body panels too much.
And you can certainly install a "Poorboy " for a lot less manpower hours than installing a new internal stator.... I've heard 4 hours from start to finish, if you have all the parts, and the correct pulleys ...

I guess ... " You pays your money , and you takes your choice "

SilverDave

[oldwing73]

.i upgraded to a non shunt type regulator from jackcycle. works great