GL1500 LED's


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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wingpilot08
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Location: Coatesville, PA
Motorcycle: 2008 GL1800-HPNA - 50,000+ miles
1988 Bunkhouse camping trailer
Darkside #1720
bikes owned:
1975 CB550-4 final mileage unknown
1982 Yamaha 650 Maximum 30,000 miles
1987 Yamaha XVZ-1300 Venture 109,000 miles
1996 Honda GL1500-SE 210,000 miles

Re: GL1500 LED's

Post by wingpilot08 » Wed Sep 25, 2013 8:08 pm



Happytrails wrote:Maybe its just me and that my bike is old but the LED's were a lot brighter. I left a couple old bulbs in and put in a couple LED's in the tail lights and they were much brighter.
The LED's are much brighter and use less power and will last longer! Well worth the change!!
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08' GL1800-HPNA - Red 32,000+ miles
1988 Bunkhouse Trailer/Camper
Darkside #1720
bikes owned:
1975 CB550-4 final mileage unknown
1982 Yamaha 650 Maximum 30,000 miles
1987 Yamaha XVZ-1300 Venture 109,000 miles
1996 Honda GL1500-SE 210,000 miles

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Happytrails
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Location: Tarentum, Pennsylvania
Motorcycle: 1991 Goldwing 1500 SE
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Re: GL1500 LED's

Post by Happytrails » Thu Sep 26, 2013 6:44 am

Looking good! I guess I was expecting LEDs to be the same brightness but longer life and less power draw. Im a big believer in being seen. By the way what headlights are you running?
1991 GL1500 SE Anniversary Edition
Sun Flare Gold Metallic
Vallant Brown Inset

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wingpilot08
Posts: 547
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 4:43 pm
Location: Coatesville, PA
Motorcycle: 2008 GL1800-HPNA - 50,000+ miles
1988 Bunkhouse camping trailer
Darkside #1720
bikes owned:
1975 CB550-4 final mileage unknown
1982 Yamaha 650 Maximum 30,000 miles
1987 Yamaha XVZ-1300 Venture 109,000 miles
1996 Honda GL1500-SE 210,000 miles

Re: GL1500 LED's

Post by wingpilot08 » Thu Sep 26, 2013 6:53 am

Happytrails wrote:Looking good! I guess I was expecting LEDs to be the same brightness but longer life and less power draw. Im a big believer in being seen. By the way what headlights are you running?
Sylvania SilverStar automotive bulbs...direct fit...no changes. Considering going to HID's next time around...it's just the out of pocket that holds me back!

BTW...Moving to PA later in Oct..not quite Steelers country...closer to Phila.
08' GL1800-HPNA - Red 32,000+ miles
1988 Bunkhouse Trailer/Camper
Darkside #1720
bikes owned:
1975 CB550-4 final mileage unknown
1982 Yamaha 650 Maximum 30,000 miles
1987 Yamaha XVZ-1300 Venture 109,000 miles
1996 Honda GL1500-SE 210,000 miles

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Happytrails
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Re: GL1500 LED's

Post by Happytrails » Sun Sep 29, 2013 8:11 pm

Thats a big move. You'll miss that nice Georgia weather! Are you moving due to work?
1991 GL1500 SE Anniversary Edition
Sun Flare Gold Metallic
Vallant Brown Inset

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wingpilot08
Posts: 547
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 4:43 pm
Location: Coatesville, PA
Motorcycle: 2008 GL1800-HPNA - 50,000+ miles
1988 Bunkhouse camping trailer
Darkside #1720
bikes owned:
1975 CB550-4 final mileage unknown
1982 Yamaha 650 Maximum 30,000 miles
1987 Yamaha XVZ-1300 Venture 109,000 miles
1996 Honda GL1500-SE 210,000 miles

Re: GL1500 LED's

Post by wingpilot08 » Sun Sep 29, 2013 8:21 pm

Happytrails wrote:Thats a big move. You'll miss that nice Georgia weather! Are you moving due to work?
Actually moving back..lived in south Jersey and moved to Atlanta for my job. Moving back for 1st grandchild. Been in Atlanta since 99... Time to get back to the north.....
08' GL1800-HPNA - Red 32,000+ miles
1988 Bunkhouse Trailer/Camper
Darkside #1720
bikes owned:
1975 CB550-4 final mileage unknown
1982 Yamaha 650 Maximum 30,000 miles
1987 Yamaha XVZ-1300 Venture 109,000 miles
1996 Honda GL1500-SE 210,000 miles

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Jamb85
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Location: Port Pirie, South Australia, Australia
Motorcycle: GL1500A

Re: GL1500 LED's

Post by Jamb85 » Thu Jun 25, 2015 7:43 am

Hi All and thanks for very informative site and multiple forums subjects. My brother and I have extensively changed nearly all bulbs with LED's in our 1988 gl1500's. We also used the original flasher relay connectors with new small electronic Flagler controller from China via EBay, as were our bulbs. These flasher controllers allowed us not to need the ballast resistors therefore no risk of damage to any plastic bodywork due to heat. The self canceling system is also working ok on both bikes. My brother has also gone down the HID route where I went for bulb replacement to 50% increase light output (? H7) bulbs with good results. Both have also used short burst brake light flasher then fixed (on) flasher controller on an added hi intensity brake light separate to the rest (above license plate under chrome strip of top box) so no excuses for not seeing brake lights although since LED's went in, they are also muck brighter. How this helps someone by info of how we did it down here in Oz. cheers and enjoy the ride

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guitarzan
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Location: Schererville, Indiana
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 SE

Re: GL1500 LED's

Post by guitarzan » Wed Jun 22, 2016 9:15 pm

I'm reading on here about LED's and using 100w 3.3 ohm j resistor. I'm curious if you have to use one of these resistors for each LED you put in? $7.42 each? I would like to put LED's on all my handle bar controls and eventually replace all my bulbs. I just confused by all this. I'm not really much with electrical.

Thank you
Frank
USMC Purple Heart Combat Veteran MOS 0331 Machine Gunner Vietnam 70-71
Best site ever is right here.

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Happytrails
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Re: GL1500 LED's

Post by Happytrails » Thu Jun 23, 2016 5:04 am

I was under the impression that EP35s would fix the hyperflash issue. Replaced all my bulbs to LED except turn signals and gauges.

Recently installed a Tailblazer brake light modulator and very pleased with it. Trying to decide if I want my trunk lights to keep on wigwagging. Had them this way past 2 yrs and no problems.
1991 GL1500 SE Anniversary Edition
Sun Flare Gold Metallic
Vallant Brown Inset

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Jamb85
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Location: Port Pirie, South Australia, Australia
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Re: GL1500 LED's

Post by Jamb85 » Thu Jun 23, 2016 9:42 am

Hi Happytrials,
EP35 would go close fixing the flasher relay issue except for the connector to the bikes plugs. This is why we found a product on eBay with tails, and then used the stock relay connector (breaking it down to get it) and the soldered the tails into the correct corresponding connectors in the block connector. That way we could make the change to the relay and not the bike, leaving her all original. Now it does not matter whether LED's are in the sockets or normal bulbs as the relays are auto load sensing......
Hope that helps
Regards to all

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guitarzan
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Re: GL1500 LED's

Post by guitarzan » Thu Jun 23, 2016 12:33 pm

Hi,
Thanks guys for the reply's and the information. Is the product you mention on eBay the "100W 3.3ohm j" ?
USMC Purple Heart Combat Veteran MOS 0331 Machine Gunner Vietnam 70-71
Best site ever is right here.

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Jamb85
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Re: GL1500 LED's

Post by Jamb85 » Mon Jul 04, 2016 6:44 pm

Hi Guitarzan,
I may have misread your question, on review, for which I apologize. The use of the 100 watt resistor mentioned may have been on the indicator circuits so to not only stop blowing the LEDs, but also provide a load to slow down the flasher units to give you the 90-100 flasher a minute an not the disco strobe effect. You can also just swap out the relay as we did and therefore don't need the big resisters and possible damage/concern created by a heat source. Our self cancelling systems are intact and working.
The LED swap out in your handle control bulbs only need voltage limiting as their role and small carbon resisters soldered onto one leg of each led is sufficient for this role with shrink wrap then placed over the completed led leg. There is a complete guide on "how to" on doing exactly that elsewhere on this forum and I think "Wing admin" has done his too. Hope that helps....
Wing admin, great site and please keep up the best resource site for information and ideas for these great bikes.....
Regards Mick

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guitarzan
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Re: GL1500 LED's

Post by guitarzan » Mon Jul 04, 2016 8:28 pm

Hi Mick,
Thank you so much! That was really helpful, and thank you again for taking the time to relay that information too me.

Thanks
Frank
USMC Purple Heart Combat Veteran MOS 0331 Machine Gunner Vietnam 70-71
Best site ever is right here.

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5m0k3y
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Location: Osceola, Nebraska
Motorcycle: 1996 GL1500 SE
2000 Harley XLS1200S

Re: GL1500 LED's

Post by 5m0k3y » Tue Jul 12, 2016 2:05 am

A quick note regarding 194 v 168 bulbs.

Both are T3 bulbs (size and shape, wedge base)

Off the Phillips site
194 bulb is 3.8w and 14v
168 bulb is 4.9w and 14 v

Just like home lighting the higher the wattage the brighter the bulb, they also pull more amperage and create more heat, and as a result, don't have as much life expectancy. I have seen issues where people replaced 194's with 168's in gage clusters and although they were much brighter, they started melting the sockets.

LED is the way to go if possible, brighter, run cooler, and less amperage (less strain on the electrical system)

LEDs can be purchased that have built in ways to avoid hyper flashing, these will cost more, but that's the trade off for not having to mitigate it yourself.

LED's can be a bit directional, but manufacturers have been finding ways to help with this, like multi direction bulbs. When replacing the bulbs with LED's in my 96 SE radio I scuffed them with a scotchbrite pad (to diffuse the light) and filed angles on others to get the light pattern the direction I wanted it to go.

One more downside to LED's that truck drivers have to deal with is the lack of heat, some more expensive truck/trailer led light replacements have small heating elements in them so they don't ice over in the winter, cheap ones do not, the older style bulbs generally created enough heat to keep this from happening. If you live in snow prone areas you have probably seen this before on truck trailers.

Some of the ultra bright LED's create a lot of heat and have heat sinks, these are fine for headlight use, but would be to bright for marker and tail light use as you would be blinding everyone around you.

hossross
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Re: GL1500 LED's

Post by hossross » Wed Mar 22, 2017 12:07 pm

The simple instruction to add a resister in parallel is not what I would call in the hand drawn circuit diagram. parallel means the current flow has a choice to flow more than 1 way to the load. The added resister is added to ground on the turn signal circuit, but it is not in parallel, it should be added in another path between the 12 turn signal source and the turn signal bulb. I think you are using the extra resistance to make the flasher slow down, so it probably doesn't matter, but technically I wouldn't agree that it was added in parallel.

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Sempai
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Re: GL1500 LED's

Post by Sempai » Wed Mar 22, 2017 12:27 pm

hossross wrote:parallel means the current flow has a choice to flow more than 1 way to the load. The added resister is added to ground on the turn signal circuit, but it is not in parallel, it should be added in another path between the 12 turn signal source and the turn signal bulb.
You are thinking too hard. Imagine it like this...remove the bulb from its socket, run one hot wire split to one side of the bulb and to one side of the parallel wired resister. On the other side of the bulb run the ground wire to ground, and the other side of the resister needs its own wire going to ground...this is the parallel circuit you're describing.
Exactly the same circuit exists when the bulb is in its socket and the positive wire is spliced off and run through said resister and on to ground.
Keep the rubber side down.

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Re: GL1500 LED's

Post by hossross » Wed Mar 22, 2017 9:02 pm

I defer to your experience on the circuit.
.

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kiptap
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Re: GL1500 LED's

Post by kiptap » Sat May 27, 2017 12:46 am

WingAdmin wrote: You can buy lots of expensive "load balancing devices" and so on, but when it comes down to it, all it is, is a high power resistor.


OK, I decided to swap my turn signals out to LED's. Although I understand the concept of the "load balancing devices"/resistors, I don't understand ohm's law, I guess.
A lot of commercial turn signal resistors are 50W 6 Ohm for one bulb or 50W 3 Ohm for two bulbs. Wingadmin is suggesting 100W 3.3 Ohm for two+ bulbs or rather one circuit. I am struggling with why its bumped up to 100W and 3.3 Ohms or even if that is relevant. And to get to the crux, I would love to just have someone tell me what resister I should install so I don't screw it up and where the best place to tap the wires.

I have one 1156 & one 1157, plus the dash indicator for each side of my turn signals. I like the idea of strapping the resistor to the frame under the seat area, so a close by left & right turn signal circuit/harness wire would be nice.

Also, I'm just curious but what is the difference between the gold and green aluminum cases, same specs same manufacture, I thought it might be tolerance but both are 5% and are coiled, same identical specs.

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Re: GL1500 LED's

Post by WingAdmin » Sun May 28, 2017 11:15 pm

kiptap wrote:OK, I decided to swap my turn signals out to LED's. Although I understand the concept of the "load balancing devices"/resistors, I don't understand ohm's law, I guess.
A lot of commercial turn signal resistors are 50W 6 Ohm for one bulb or 50W 3 Ohm for two bulbs. Wingadmin is suggesting 100W 3.3 Ohm for two+ bulbs or rather one circuit. I am struggling with why its bumped up to 100W and 3.3 Ohms or even if that is relevant. And to get to the crux, I would love to just have someone tell me what resister I should install so I don't screw it up and where the best place to tap the wires.

I have one 1156 & one 1157, plus the dash indicator for each side of my turn signals. I like the idea of strapping the resistor to the frame under the seat area, so a close by left & right turn signal circuit/harness wire would be nice.

Also, I'm just curious but what is the difference between the gold and green aluminum cases, same specs same manufacture, I thought it might be tolerance but both are 5% and are coiled, same identical specs.
The turn signal runs two 1156 bulbs. Each 1156 bulb draws 27 watts as 12 volts, which means that each bulb presents a resistive load of 5.3 ohms. We have two bulbs, so to calculate both bulbs resistance we use 1/Rt = 1/R1 + 1/R2.

This works out to 1/Rt = 1/5.3 + 1/5.3, or 1/Rt = 0.189 + 0.189, which is 1/Rt = 0.378, so Rt = 2.64 ohms. That means both bulbs together present a load of 2.64 ohms.

Therefore 3 ohms for a power resistor is a reasonably accurate representation of two bulbs. I used 3.3 ohm as it is commonly available. At 12 volts, a 3 ohm resistive load will draw about 55 watts.

When it comes to electronic design, and in particularly those designs involving high-power components, I typically double the capacity required. So a 100 watt 3.3 ohm resistor fits that bill perfectly.

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Re: GL1500 LED's

Post by kiptap » Mon May 29, 2017 4:14 pm

WingAdmin wrote: The turn signal runs two 1156 bulbs. Each 1156 bulb draws 27 watts as 12 volts, which means that each bulb presents a resistive load of 5.3 ohms. We have two bulbs, so to calculate both bulbs resistance we use 1/Rt = 1/R1 + 1/R2.

This works out to 1/Rt = 1/5.3 + 1/5.3, or 1/Rt = 0.189 + 0.189, which is 1/Rt = 0.378, so Rt = 2.64 ohms. That means both bulbs together present a load of 2.64 ohms.

Therefore 3 ohms for a power resistor is a reasonably accurate representation of two bulbs. I used 3.3 ohm as it is commonly available. At 12 volts, a 3 ohm resistive load will draw about 55 watts.

When it comes to electronic design, and in particularly those designs involving high-power components, I typically double the capacity required. So a 100 watt 3.3 ohm resistor fits that bill perfectly.


Ok, Ok, I guess the facts do add up. 3.3ohm 100W resistor it is! Any special time-saving location under the seat to splice into?

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Re: GL1500 LED's

Post by WingAdmin » Mon May 29, 2017 10:11 pm

kiptap wrote:
WingAdmin wrote: The turn signal runs two 1156 bulbs. Each 1156 bulb draws 27 watts as 12 volts, which means that each bulb presents a resistive load of 5.3 ohms. We have two bulbs, so to calculate both bulbs resistance we use 1/Rt = 1/R1 + 1/R2.

This works out to 1/Rt = 1/5.3 + 1/5.3, or 1/Rt = 0.189 + 0.189, which is 1/Rt = 0.378, so Rt = 2.64 ohms. That means both bulbs together present a load of 2.64 ohms.

Therefore 3 ohms for a power resistor is a reasonably accurate representation of two bulbs. I used 3.3 ohm as it is commonly available. At 12 volts, a 3 ohm resistive load will draw about 55 watts.

When it comes to electronic design, and in particularly those designs involving high-power components, I typically double the capacity required. So a 100 watt 3.3 ohm resistor fits that bill perfectly.
egghead-jr.jpg Ok, Ok, I guess the facts do add up. 3.3ohm 100W resistor it is! Any special time-saving location under the seat to splice into?
I strapped my resistors to the frame underneath the rear trunk using two stainless steel band clamps. This turns the frame of the bike into a giant heat sink for the resistors. I then tapped into the turn signal wires that are already right in that area leading to the trunk turn signals.

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kiptap
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Re: GL1500 LED's

Post by kiptap » Tue May 30, 2017 8:49 pm

WingAdmin wrote: I strapped my resistors to the frame underneath the rear trunk using two stainless steel band clamps. This turns the frame of the bike into a giant heat sink for the resistors. I then tapped into the turn signal wires that are already right in that area leading to the trunk turn signals.
Ok, I'm probably going to have to remove the bags for that to get in under there, I'm guessing. It will be worth it I'm sure. Thanks for blazing the trail of upgrades so that others, such as myself, have an easy path to follow!



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