exposing battery for charging

[vmansquest]

I have a 1990 goldwing 1500 aspencade and my battery is close to dead and I would like to know the procedure to expose the battery so I can put it on charge

[virgilmobile]

If you must remove the battery from the bike,always remove the negative post first then the positive one.Reverse for install.
Do check the electrolyte level.
Some chargers do not charge the battery when it's still hooked to the bike.Im in that situation now.
Using a Walmart smart float charger,it always shows a battery fault after a half hour or so.If I disconnect the ground cable,it charges fine.
A slow charge at less than 2 amp for 24 hours is best.
I plan on replacing my charger with the recommended "battery tender jr."

[wingpilot08]

Pull off the right side cover and hook up....just that simple!

[Sempai]

Get yourself a nice Battery Tender, or Battery Tender Jr. Remove the right side cover, remove the seat, and open the fuel fill access door. Now thread the Tender's battery cable (bottom right portion of this image) from the battery, under the frame rail, over the gas tank, and under the console shelf into the area of the fuel filler neck. Attach the cable ends to your battery posts, reinstall side cover and seat.
Now when you need to charge the battery, you need only open the fuel fill access door and connect the Battery Tender to the battery cable which will reside nicely in the fuel fill space.
NOTE: Ensure the cable's connector is sitting to one side or the other of the fuel fill neck and also NOT under either of the door's hinges whenever you close the access door.
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[SteveB123]

you need only open the fuel fill access door and connect the Battery Tender to the battery cable

Frequently used electrical hookup next to the fuel filler?

Perhaps a different location would be better.

[Sempai]

Lol...Actually, I seldom use mine, because my bike and battery function well as designed.
If Battery Tender is not plugged into a wall outlet, then it will be void of any electrical energy and incapable of causing any spark which might ignite any fuel vapors that oughtn't be there anyway (if you've put your fuel filler cap back on properly.) Anyhow, if this is your concern, connect the cables' connectors first, then plug the Tender into an outlet.
I have seen several people that leave their batterybside tender cable dangling here or there, it leaves the system looking like an afterthought, that was never completed. The cable is easily strung out from behind the passenger portion of the seat, and stows just as easy in this area, though you risk the connector finding its way under the seat and out of reach ....right when you'd really like to have it!!

[WingAdmin]

you need only open the fuel fill access door and connect the Battery Tender to the battery cable

Frequently used electrical hookup next to the fuel filler?

Perhaps a different location would be better.

I agree. The connector is quite capable of generating a spark every time it is plugged into the Battery Tender. Locating this right next to the fuel filler cap is a bad idea.

I threaded my connector up from the battery, and across to the left hand cubby (mounted on the front of the trunk). When I park in the garage, I open the left hand cubby door, pull the connector out, and plug it into the tender.

[Uncle Fester]

I was actually thinking of mounting the "BOX" for the battery tender inside the left hand cubby , much like W.A. , and hard wiring it (with disconnect under the seat) so I just pull out the power-cord and plug it in too. This way I have my tender, even on the road, so if I need it for some reason, it is there. . . .

[bo_mull]

I ran my plug up beside the passenger seat. My wife uses the Battery tender USB adapter to charge her cell when riding.

[tandem54]

you need only open the fuel fill access door and connect the Battery Tender to the battery cable

Frequently used electrical hookup next to the fuel filler?

Perhaps a different location would be better.

I agree. The connector is quite capable of generating a spark every time it is plugged into the Battery Tender. Locating this right next to the fuel filler cap is a bad idea.

I threaded my connector up from the battery, and across to the left hand cubby (mounted on the front of the trunk). When I park in the garage, I open the left hand cubby door, pull the connector out, and plug it into the tender.

I have mine going under the seat and into the side pocket just like this, works really well. I made a little card that just says charger on it and I slip that into the space above my key by the display and that way I don't forget to unplug the cord (don't ask me how I know this LOL!) When I get ready to go I put this card in the cubby when I put the cord in.

[amsoilguy]

Can the tender be used on AGM or sealed batteries?

When I park my bike for the winter, can I leave the tender on 24/7 or just periodically?

[Sempai]

Can the tender be used on AGM or sealed batteries?

When I park my bike for the winter, can I leave the tender on 24/7 or just periodically?

24/7 with no problems. Works on AGM's as well.

[Big Bob]

Just thinking about this, I too have installed Battery Tender Jr. on my 1500 and my wife's VTX 1300, we live in MN bikes, are stored in a non insulated garage. I'm assuming it is still safe to leave batteries, tenders plugged in all winter even with temps in the garage getting to -10 more then once in our winters. that was the plan, how about some feed back, just seems so cold for batteries, wing has an AGM, VTX still has stock battery.

Bob

[WingAdmin]

Just thinking about this, I too have installed Battery Tender Jr. on my 1500 and my wife's VTX 1300, we live in MN bikes, are stored in a non insulated garage. I'm assuming it is still safe to leave batteries, tenders plugged in all winter even with temps in the garage getting to -10 more then once in our winters. that was the plan, how about some feed back, just seems so cold for batteries, wing has an AGM, VTX still has stock battery.

Bob

Not only is it safe, your batteries will last longer as a result. Uncharged batteries can freeze at higher temperatures - the more charge in a battery, the lower temperatures it will tolerate without freezing. So by keeping it on a tender all winter, the batteries will be kept in top shape, AND be protected from freezing. And by keeping them fully charged like this, they will last longer as well.

[Wingsconsin]

I take my batteries out of the bike(s) each winter storage season and put them in the basement on my workbench attached to Battery Tenders. Admittedly this is a PIA ; but it works for me...

That way I do not worry about garage temps - the basement is always the same .

But if I KNEW it was okay to leave them in the bike (even advantageous) I would consider doing it for the 2 AGM's - the other is a conventional lead-acid battery ....

[WingAdmin]

I take my batteries out of the bike(s) each winter storage season and put them in the basement on my workbench attached to Battery Tenders. Admittedly this is a PIA ; but it works for me...

That way I do not worry about garage temps - the basement is always the same .

But if I KNEW it was okay to leave them in the bike (even advantageous) I would consider doing it for the 2 AGM's - the other is a conventional lead-acid battery ....

I used to take my batteries out every winter. I gave up on this a few years ago and just left them on tenders all winter long. I've been using the same batteries ever since in all of my garage-stored things (motorcycles, generator) and they work like new.

[CWJ73]

How cold does it get in the winter where you are WingAmin? We typically get to -30c and can get to -40c when it is really cold. I'd rather keep my batteries in the garage hooked to a charger but i am concerned about freezing. Would they survive even at that temp?

[WingAdmin]

How cold does it get in the winter where you are WingAmin? We typically get to -30c and can get to -40c when it is really cold. I'd rather keep my batteries in the garage hooked to a charger but i am concerned about freezing. Would they survive even at that temp?

A fully charged lead-acid battery freezes at -76F, or -59C. So as long as it is kept fully charged, it will not freeze. A fully discharged battery will freeze right at 32F (0C) - same as water, so as you can imagine, it does not take a whole lot of discharge to get to a point where it would freeze at -40C. A tender will keep it at full charge and prevent this.

[CWJ73]

A fully charged lead-acid battery freezes at -76F, or -59C. So as long as it is kept fully charged, it will not freeze. A fully discharged battery will freeze right at 32F (0C) - same as water, so as you can imagine, it does not take a whole lot of discharge to get to a point where it would freeze at -40C. A tender will keep it at full charge and prevent this.

Thanks. Known the temps helps me make that decision with confidence. I'll be adding 'build a battery bench' to my to do list before the winter and get an extra battery tender or two for my trailer batteries and other outdoor toys.

[threepwood]

I've read almost this entire thread. The Motorcycle Movers delivered my Goldwing GL1500SE trike after transporting it from Invercargill to Hamilton. As I suspected, the battery was dead, and I offered up a silent prayer of thanks for Goldwing Docs, as I put my battery tender onto my walker and headed to the garage. How to find my screwdrivers to remove the seat. I liked the idea of putting the tender in the cubby, and after hitting "like" decided that yes, much better to avoid the fuel filler.

It's true what they say: Goldwing owners are amazing in the support they offer. I'm looking forward to my first ride, after I've charged the battery, checked fluid levels and finished cleaning it up. Amazing condition for a 31-year old bike. I've set up a chair in the garage (I have back problems) and can see myself spending hours just gazing lovingly at it.

[Sadanorakman]

I bought a Noco Genius 1, and have not been at all impressed with that. It takes way too long to bring the battery back to a full state of charge, as it seems to taper off the current way early. OK, it's only a 3/4 Amp (750mA) output anyway, but this soon tapers away to a few milliamps in use. I have ended up using this purely for my lawn mower battery!

I then bought a CTEK MXS 5.0, and I'm a lot happier with this one. It can do 5 amps if you need it to (Just set it to car instead of bike), and you tell it whether you are charging flooded lead acid, or AGM appropriately. It seems well made, and I've used it to charge the batteries of several car and SUVs, and charge and maintain my Gold Wing's Motobatt AGM.
It's a bit too large to fit inside the cubby, but I wouldn't want to do that anyway.

I would have no concern whatsoever placing the connector for this under my fuel-door: Not that I am recommending others do this, but for me, I'd be more than happy to.
My fuel cap is always kept tightly closed, and I make sure I don't spill fuel onto the tray when filling her.
Regardless of this, quality tenders simply don't create sparks when attached, even when connected in reverse polarity by mistake.

Their website even states: "All CTEK chargers, such at the CTEK MXS 5.0, are designed to charge the battery whilst it is still attached to the vehicle. They are spark-proof and reverse polarity protected so it’s completely safe for the battery, the vehicle and the user too."

I appreciate they don't say it's OK to connect it next to a pool of gas, but then again, only a fool would try.

[threepwood]

I have a Battery Tender Junior and I've placed it in the r/rear pocket next to the passenger seat. I've purchased an extension cord so that I will able to be unplug the charger when I don't need it, and simply attach it to the cables. I'm looking at adding an aux power panel so that I can tidy up and have everything neat and tidy, like Scott.

I noticed that one person said that attaching a battery charger is as simple as removing the right panel. That may well be true on a GL1800 but this is a GL1500 thread. I know because some kind people on the GL1800 area kindly helped me with my problem anyway. I guess that's how this community rolls.

Check out Scott's video here about attaching an aux power panel.


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[Sadanorakman]

I noticed that one person said that attaching a battery charger is as simple as removing the right panel. That may well be true on a GL1800 but this is a GL1500 thread.

I don't understand the issues some people have removing their GL1500 side covers. Mine come off with an appropriate amount of force: not too little as to risk losing them when riding, and not too much as to risk snapping the pegs off. I assume it's a balance between knowing how to remove them properly, and the grommets still being supple enough. Replacement grommets are cheap enough to buy in full bike sets.

I haven't gotten around to fitting my battery maintainer pigtails permanently to my battery, so at the moment I just pull the side-panel off, and use crock-clips straight onto the battery terminals, but I only plug the maintainer in when I know I'll not be riding her for longer than max two weeks. I'm sure I'll get around to it next time I have the saddle off.

[Rambozo]

I noticed that one person said that attaching a battery charger is as simple as removing the right panel.

It is just that simple on that bike. Because you have a trike, there may be other issues because of changes to the bodywork.

[threepwood]

The battery terminals are only accessible after removing the seat.I have seen that elsewhere, not just my GL1500SE. I'm not quite sure how a trike conversion would have lead to the seat being lowered, or the battery being raised, but I do note that elsewhere on GWD, I've seen terminal relocators that make the battery accessible without having to remove the seat.

That's not really an option for me as once converting to NZ$ (or the NZ peso as I fondly refer to it) and adding on astronomical freight charges, (That manual place referred to elsewhere quoted $292 freight for a $30 Goldwing Manual) means that it's easier for me to fabricate my own, (how hard can it be to bend a piece of metal 90º??) than to import. As I ramble on, I'm already mentally designing my auxiliary fuse panel, so I can monitor battery voltage and charge USB devices. I've found my trusty soldering iron, located an automotive retailer that sells those heatshrinking soldering things and now I just need to check what kind of cabling I need. Hopefully I don't fry the electrics. It's been a while since I've done any electrical work, but it promises to have the same kick I got from licking 9v batteries and jamming scissors into outlets to discover what would happen. I still remember the smell as I was launched across the room. Ah, heady memories.