starter stayed engaged

[lundo]

Hi all,
Here is my question. I have my 1995 godwing on the battery tender all winter. The other day we had one of those rare 60 degree days so I thought I would fire up the old girl and take her for a spin. Turned on the key,pulled out the choke and hit the starter. Starter engaged and started turning over the engine(but engine did not start), I let off of the starter button and the starter stayed engaged.I turned off the key, the starter stayed engaged turning over the motor, I switched the on,off,on switch to the off position and the starter is still engaged trying to start the motor. I ran to the tool box and grabbed a wrench and disconnected the battery. By this time the battery was almost dead. I charged the battery back up and connected the battery cable and the starter is not engaging.But now I am afraid to try and start it again.

My question is: Did my starter solenoid stick on me? If so is it seperate from the starter? Easy to get to ?

Thanks,

[Big Blue UK]

Cannot see how starter motor engagement could be the problem. Or the starter switch with the ignition off. Relay frying shut with the ignition off is how the starter is connected to the battery bypassing the ignition. well that I know of.

[RBGERSON]

There are two solenoids separate from the starter both are just forward of the battery, take off the cover easy to see. The relays are on the other side of the bike in a box and are labeled..I think

[ct1500]

Starter relay "A" to the right side of battery needs replacing. Part #12

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com ... ---BATTERY

[WingAdmin]

Starter relay "A" to the right side of battery needs replacing. Part #12

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com ... ---BATTERY

It's more likely starter relay B that needs replacing. It's the one that handles the massive current of the starter, and is the one that gets welded shut, as is what happened in this case.

[WingAdmin]

Starter relay "A" to the right side of battery needs replacing. Part #12

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com ... ---BATTERY

It's more likely starter relay B that needs replacing. It's the one that handles the massive current of the starter, and is the one that gets welded shut, as is what happened in this case.

CT1500 just sent me a message, and I took a closer look at that circuit - and he's right. I was just squinting at that small circuit picture, opening the whole thing on my computer it's obvious that relay B can't receive current without the contacts of relay A first being closed - I was for some reason thinking relay B was pulling its current directly from the battery. So he's correct, the likely culprit is relay A. If relay B sticks closed, it still won't run the starter until relay A also closes.

[lundo]

Thank you all so much for your help. I will order the relay.

[lundo]

ok its me again, I went to cyclemax's website. under battery.part # 12 shows: 35850-mk3-671 Switch assy, starter magnetic $76.76. is this correct. The description is throwing me off, switch assy? I thought I needed a relay. Little black box about 1 inch square. Guessing as I havent had a chance to look on the bike yet.

And 76 dollars for a relay?

Thanks again,

[ct1500]

A relay is in effect a switch just a metric language translation thing. Relays come in all sizes and the little relay in fuse box is not equipped or designed to handle the high amperage of a starter motor. The service manual calls it a starter relay and rightly so, some refer to it as a starter solenoid which is a bit of a misnomer.

#12 includes the fuse holder which for an extra $12 I always quote because many do not look at or dismantle to check the old part before ordering. Due to specific variances some can be melted/brittle and nothing worse than getting into a job and finding out you don't have all the parts needed for completion. If yours is known good than just order #13.

[Wingryder1]

You can buy "A" all over the net for around 10.00 Yes it is aftermarket and cheaper built but I would go this route and see if it fixes the problem. (order two and carry the second as a spare) If it fixes the problem.. I guess you could buy the oem version to help you sleep better. It's a simple install even on the road so ... carrying a extra cheapo works for me.

wingryder

[eusurp1]

Yea I was wondering about that....isn't it just like any old starter relay found on any car older than say 25years and available as you say for short money...

I know this thread is old but the problem of a stuck starter for whenever the battery is applied is new to me this afternoon---yesterday (9/13/2021)...First nice day for a ride and I had this strange whirring sound that I thought was a cooling fan out of balance...NOPE!!---Dang it....my 40 year old car on blocks in the garage and my 30 year old bike with the side covers off---OH WOH IS ME....but I get to figure it out and ride again....I like your idea of having a spare relay with you though...

Soup

[eusurp1]

So I don't know if my last message posted...I may have gotten distracted So I ohmed out both relays A and B at the heavy wire post. Meter showed open--no connection OL . So my thought is WHAT NEXT? if the actual relay on the relay box is welded across ITS contacts, wouldn't that be the same as if relay A OR B was shorted also? and how hard is it to disassemble the start button on my 93 Aspencade...seems like A BUNCH OF WIRES IN THERE! Tiny ass screws and my big ol clumsy fingers...I usually put a white sheet under my work area for when I INEVITABLY drop some tiny little part...any help would be appreciated
Bumming me out weather is stunning right now....and my bike is in pieces----WAAAAAHHH