It finally had to happen... GL1500 charging problem


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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ghostvet
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It finally had to happen... GL1500 charging problem

Post by ghostvet »



So, a while back I was out riding with my boy and my volt meter was beeping and showing less than 12vdc. It has done that before but this time it didn't stop. Them I noticed my dash lights were going dim. Finally, I stopped at a light and it died. There was not enough power to restart. My Goldwing looked better than any Harley on the back of that flatbed, although the driver said he tows 10 Harleys for every Goldwing... Lol

Now the weather is cool enough where I could work in the shop. I whipped out my handy dandy Honda diagnostic program and began the process...

Battery leakage- 1.68mA
Regulated voltage- 11.48vdc
Regulated amperage- 1.2A
2P connector c43- 11.4vdc (the amount of work/disassembly I had to do to get to that c43 connector is unreal!)

I removed the alternator and it spins freely.

Now what?

The program isn't very good on it's yes/no/maybe options.

I desperately NEED to get my bike back on the road.


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wing rider 2012
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Re: It finally had to happen... GL1500 charging problem

Post by wing rider 2012 »

Now that you have the alternator removed, clean out the alternator, your problem could be as simple as stuck brushes. If it we me, I'd disassemble the alternator and inspect both the rotor and stator for any burnt areas, this would indicate any possible opens or shorts. Typically what you find is the brushes are stuck or wore beyond any useful condition. Replace the brushes and reassemble the alternator, you can get the brushes from Wing Stuff for about 7 dollars, I think. If the alternator is only putting out 1.2 amps this means that 1) your field voltage is low (brushes) or 2) the regulator has failed. If it is number 2 then replace the Alternator or have the alternator rebuilt by your local auto electric repair shop.
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ct1500
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Re: It finally had to happen... GL1500 charging problem

Post by ct1500 »

It is a '97 so the rotor is probably toast $$

Rebuild it yourself if you know how.
Take it to an auto electric rebuilder.
Purchase a replacement.
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ghostvet
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Re: It finally had to happen... GL1500 charging problem

Post by ghostvet »

This is also a continuation form a posting at-

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=27593&p=175046#p175046



Test results...

Battery leakage- 1.68 mA OK 8-)

Regulated voltage- 11.48v - BAD :evil:
Regulated amperage- 1.2a- BAD :evil:

2P connector C43 - 11.4- OK 8-)

Alternator spins freely

Disassemble alternator-

Capacitor- No continuity via digital

Slip rings-
Inboard- 26.95mm OK 8-)
Outboard- 26.89mm OK 8-)

Infinite electrical resistance between slip rings (Not so sure about this finding- manual says should see slight resistance). :?: :?: :?: :?: :?:

Infinite resistance between outboard slip ring and rotor shaft.

Both bearings spin freely

Brushes definitely BAD! :evil:




Windings- continuity between all windings, no continuity to stator core (filed a small spot on the core to ensure conduction).

There is some surface rust on the rotor... not sure it is matters...


Last edited by ghostvet on Fri Oct 09, 2015 7:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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wing rider 2012
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Re: It finally had to happen... GL1500 charging problem

Post by wing rider 2012 »

Is it worth rebuilding? If this is the OEM alternator then it is only 40 amps. If you have plans on adding any electronics to the bike then you might want to get a newer higher output alternator. I ordered a couple from R & Z alternator out of California and never had any issues with the alternators. This company offers a 1 year warranty and they are pretty good to deal with. There number is (310) 530-6410.
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ghostvet
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Re: It finally had to happen... GL1500 charging problem

Post by ghostvet »

I would normally... but $300 right now is kind of steep... I am in the middle of a new roof-- as we speak!

I am thinking all it needs is some new brushes... unless someone has better information for me...
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Re: It finally had to happen... GL1500 charging problem

Post by Big Bob »

Well I'm not the most mechanically inclined so I would replace the alternator with one of the alternators from http://www.obbstartersandalternators.co ... p-453.html worke great for me and was delivered to my door in 24 hours. I had a shop rebuild my original alternator but they screwed it up and after r&r that alternator 3 times enough was enough. That was over 3 years ago, and it's still going strong. Cheap alternative compared to a stock replacement, or some rebuild shop screwing up your original, just my opinion! Good luck!

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Re: It finally had to happen... GL1500 charging problem

Post by Bluewaterhooker0 »

Slip rings-
Inboard- 26.95mm OK 8-)
Outboard- 26.89mm OK 8-)

Infinite electrical resistance between slip rings (Not so sure about this finding- manual says should see slight resistance). :?: :?: :?: :?: :?:

Infinite resistance between outboard slip ring and rotor shaft.
I'm not quite following your measurements at the slip rings. You say you have no continuity between the slip rings. Before that, you describe "inboard" and "outboard" resistance readings. Then you say you have infinite resistance between the slip rings.

Where are the resistance reading between ? If you are reading resistance between either of the slip rings and the rotor shaft, the winding is grounded....no good. If you have NO resistance reading between the 2 slip rings, the winding is open....no good. If you have resistance between the 2 slip rings, and no resistance to anywhere else, you probably have a brush problem. Dirty brush holders (stuck or weak brush pressure on the rotor slip rings) are probably the issue. If the brushes seem operative throughout their range in the holders, it may be the diodes or rectifier/regulator.
I am the proud owner of 2 OEM alternators with open rotor windings. I know the scenario. I can actually see the broken winding wire at one of the rotors, and am trying to figure a way to repair it. Alternator shops that I've called won't mess with them.
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Re: It finally had to happen... GL1500 charging problem

Post by ct1500 »

The brushes shown have plenty of meat left to them. There should be continuity between slip rings, if none then the R/R becomes suspect also (which there is no test for)(it can go when rotor goes open). Desolder the stator and test that also.

You are most likely in cost$$ wise now where a replacement is warrented.
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ghostvet
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Re: It finally had to happen... GL1500 charging problem

Post by ghostvet »

Bluewaterhooker0 wrote:
Slip rings-
Inboard- 26.95mm OK 8-)
Outboard- 26.89mm OK 8-)

Infinite electrical resistance between slip rings (Not so sure about this finding- manual says should see slight resistance). :?: :?: :?: :?: :?:

Infinite resistance between outboard slip ring and rotor shaft.
I'm not quite following your measurements at the slip rings. You say you have no continuity between the slip rings. Before that, you describe "inboard" and "outboard" resistance readings. Then you say you have infinite resistance between the slip rings.

Where are the resistance reading between ? If you are reading resistance between either of the slip rings and the rotor shaft, the winding is grounded....no good. If you have NO resistance reading between the 2 slip rings, the winding is open....no good. If you have resistance between the 2 slip rings, and no resistance to anywhere else, you probably have a brush problem. Dirty brush holders (stuck or weak brush pressure on the rotor slip rings) are probably the issue. If the brushes seem operative throughout their range in the holders, it may be the diodes or rectifier/regulator.
I am the proud owner of 2 OEM alternators with open rotor windings. I know the scenario. I can actually see the broken winding wire at one of the rotors, and am trying to figure a way to repair it. Alternator shops that I've called won't mess with them.
So, I said...
"Slip rings-
Inboard- 26.95mm OK 8-)
Outboard- 26.89mm OK 8-) "

Outboard is closest to the end of shaft bearing.

Those are distance measurements... mm = millimeters... lol

Using a digital multimeter in Ohms mode, it shows ZERO connection (like an air gap) between both slip rings.

Not sure what you mean by "open windings"... I checked continuity between all three windings (on the stator) and they checked fine, and there was no continuity between the windings and the STATOR ground.

I didn't see anything in the manual re: testing the rotor windings.
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Re: It finally had to happen... GL1500 charging problem

Post by Bluewaterhooker0 »

If you show no reading between the slip rings, the rotor is bad. "Open" describes a circuit with no continuity. The rotor winding is open, broken, or burned.
The most practical solution is a new alternator. Probably of a higher amp rating. There are plenty on Amazon, and elsewhere, for $130 - 180 or so. 80, 85, 90 amps. Much better than the stock 40 amp original. I got a Lactrical 85 amp, and so far, so good. Only a few thousand miles thus far.
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ghostvet
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Re: It finally had to happen... GL1500 charging problem

Post by ghostvet »

Thanx! I went and did it... Who needs a roof when I need my bike!!! lol


Thank you, your Amazon order has been placed.
An email confirmation has been sent to you.


100% NEW LACTRICAL HIGH AMP OUTPUT HD 95AMP ALTERNATOR FOR HONDA GOLDWING GL1500 GL1500A GL1500I GL1500SE GOLD WING ASPENCADE INTERSTATE *ONE YEAR WARRANTY will be shipped by LActrical.

Estimated delivery: Oct. 16, 2015 - Oct. 20, 2015

$132.25 + $17.99 shipping
In Stock. Sold by LActrical
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Re: It finally had to happen... GL1500 charging problem

Post by Bluewaterhooker0 »

Thanx! I went and did it... Who needs a roof when I need my bike!!! lol
I went with the 85 amp with the thought that it would be a tad smaller, and easier to stuff in that ridiculous little space. It wasn't too bad at all. About the same as the OEM.
BTW, don't forget to replace the rubber dampers between the alternator and the engine drive mechanism. I understand that is important when changing the alternator. Helps minimize noise and vibration. They are pretty hard rubber to start with, and get harder with age.
Another tip. Rather than disassemble the left side of the bike to make that 2-pin plug connection. You can order some 2-pin plugs (male and female) from Cyclemax, and just add a new mating plug to the existing 'exciter' wire. Then plug the new alternator right on. They have the dampers too.

http://cyclemax.com/inc/sdetail/gl1500_ ... /129/29165

http://cyclemax.com/inc/sdetail/2_wire_ ... /129/36020

NOTE: The 2-pin plug only uses 1 pin of the 2-pin plug.
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ghostvet
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Re: It finally had to happen... GL1500 charging problem

Post by ghostvet »

CycleMax had the dampeners for $17 + shipping/time.

Mother Honda has them for $5, and they are in stock and only a few miles from my house.

Alternator should be in within a week.

I can't wait!!!
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Re: It finally had to happen... GL1500 charging problem

Post by Bluewaterhooker0 »

I'm assuming you haven't actually purchased those dampeners yet. I am pretty sure the price you got was a "per" price. It takes 4 of them. Either way, that's still not a bad price for the convenience of running down and picking them up, locally. The online price from my usual (almost always the least expensive) supplier is $4.42 each, with a list of $5.25 each. And Cyclemax is known to have some pretty good prices on just about everything he sells.
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Re: It finally had to happen... GL1500 charging problem

Post by wing rider 2012 »

When I bought the alternator for my 1500 (before I sold the bike) it was an 85 amp and the same size as the 40 amp OEM, I scratched my head and wondered how can this be an 85 amp alternator. The only other high output alternator I saw was the Compufire a friend had on his 1500, which was larger in diameter. I called Robert at R&Z alternator, where I bought the alternator and inquired about this. Robert told me that the 40 amp OEM alternators are single wound wye designed stators and that the his alternators are double wound wye designed stators, this is how they get twice the output in the same housing. So, if your wondering how the size can remain the same with a much higher output that is how they do it.
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Re: It finally had to happen... GL1500 charging problem

Post by ghostvet »

SUCCESS!!!

I installed the new 85a alternator, but made two modifications-

1- I took the wire and 2P connector from the old alternator, added a 2P connector at one end, and connected it to the new alternator so if I ever needed to check or replace the alternator again, I won't have to remove half the plastics just to get to C43 (that was a bear!).

2- The new alternator did not have a mounting/ground bracket on it for the alternator filter. So, I connected a ground wire and connected the original filter to the positive terminal as it was on the original OEM alternator.


Voltage remains over 13vdc as I ride... LOVE IT!!!
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Re: It finally had to happen... GL1500 charging problem

Post by Lebouc »

Hi , i just noticed that my filter seems to be broken on my alternator ?
What does it filter anyway ?
And if its broken , is that enough to have charging issues ?
I changed my alternator when i got my Wing out in April , had to change it again about a month and a half later and again another month and a half later i have charging issues .
To be honest , i'm starting to get tired of Goldwings , its my 3rd wing and my 5th alternator !!!
Thanks for the reply .
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Re: It finally had to happen... GL1500 charging problem

Post by WingAdmin »

Lebouc wrote: Sun Jul 18, 2021 10:31 am Hi , i just noticed that my filter seems to be broken on my alternator ?
What does it filter anyway ?
And if its broken , is that enough to have charging issues ?
I changed my alternator when i got my Wing out in April , had to change it again about a month and a half later and again another month and a half later i have charging issues .
To be honest , i'm starting to get tired of Goldwings , its my 3rd wing and my 5th alternator !!!
Thanks for the reply .
The filter (which is just a capacitor) filters harmonic noise that will interfere with your CB. If you don't have (or use) your CB, you can safely omit it. The alternator and bike will run fine with or without it.
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Re: It finally had to happen... GL1500 charging problem

Post by Lebouc »

Thanks a lot WingAdmin .

1 : I have a couple questions when you get some loose time , i attached a picture of my alternator and i was wondering what does this little black box bolted on it , does ?

2 : Also i seen on this site somewhere that the little black wire coming out of that box connects to the same bolt as the positive connector with the filter , but on mine it conects to a little nut which acts as a ground ?

3 : Someone also said on here that i should have the same voltage on the connector with the black/light green wire as the battery , is that with the bike running or stopped ?

4 : And if the bike as to run , can i start the bike without the alternator , cause i already took it out to have it tested , ( its been rebuilted 1½ month ago ) but i just want to make sure before i start going berzerk trying to find the problem ?

Thanks again for your time






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ct1500
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Re: It finally had to happen... GL1500 charging problem

Post by ct1500 »

The black wire with yellow insulator goes to the back of the main (battery) post not grounded to back of alternator housing. Likely the root of your charging problems.
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Lebouc
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Re: It finally had to happen... GL1500 charging problem

Post by Lebouc »

What i don't get , is that it was like that for the last month and a half and the alternator before was like that too for about a month and a half also ?
So if that's the problem , why is it charging for 1 to 2 months then stop charging ?
Bizarre don't you think ?

Thanks for the advice though
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Re: It finally had to happen... GL1500 charging problem

Post by Rambozo »

That black box is just capacitors to get rid of alternator whine in the radio. You could pull it off or hook it up wrong, and it would make no difference to charging.
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Re: It finally had to happen... GL1500 charging problem

Post by ct1500 »

Lebouc wrote: Sun Jul 18, 2021 7:41 pm What i don't get , is that it was like that for the last month and a half and the alternator before was like that too for about a month and a half also ?
So if that's the problem , why is it charging for 1 to 2 months then stop charging ?
Bizarre don't you think ?Thanks for the advice though
Bizarre? Not at all when electrical is mis-wired. An Electrical Engineer might be able to explain what exactly happens. Me just a lowly mokanic, :) but I would surmise there is some kind of voltage leaking or a capacitor inside discharging high voltage from the black wire to that ground point which just so happens to be a ground leg for the rectifier and diodes. And if voltage is leaking to ground on the green or discharging high voltage occasionally wire from the black, the green goes to the voltage regulator inside the alternator and could be enough of a mis-wire to slowly destroy electronic devices.


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