GL-1500 Fader switch

[offcenter]

Just got a '99 GL-1500 SE.
The fader knob on the left handlebar does not work. Rolling it forward or back does
nothing...until it hits either end. Then all audio goes away completely.
Also....The left speakers, front and rear, are not working at all.
I'm wondering if the two problems could be related.
Anyone have any experience with the fader control and what
to look for, or how to fix it?
Thanks guys.

[NVSB4]

The fader goes from front to back, so the left speakers not working isn't related.
Check the connectors on the back of the radio to make sure that they are together well and some of the wires aren't loose.

[offcenter]

Thanks Chris. I'll check that out.
Anyone know anything about repairing or replacing the fader control?

[Mag]

Depending on the type, sometimes pain in the arse. I bought one of those "drill a hole" in the plastic, put knob in, etc., and then I broke the wires because the got twisted. I actually bought an extra "fader box" that sits on top of the plastic. My 89 used to have one, so I am installing one on the 88. Project for this summer so I can get my back speakers to work. Should not be a problem, just taking off all the pieces to get the damn thing plugged in.

[Fiberthree]

The shaft on that control is real long. It runs the length of the housing. It might just need cleaning. To get the top control pod off you have to take the entire control off the handle bar. There are two screws on the bottom and are only accessed from inside the top half of the bottom pod. (if that makes sense. I couldn't think of any other way to describe it.) If you have spray contact cleaner, spray it in there and rotate the knob back and forth. If the symptoms don't go away it could be a contact problem elsewhere.

[NVSB4]

I looked in the Honda Service Manual and found the following.
Check to see if the 6 pin connector may have come loose and do a resistance check.

[offcenter]

I looked in the Honda Service Manual and found the following.
Check to see if the 6 pin connector may have come loose and do a resistance check.

Thank you very much for that!!

[offcenter]

The shaft on that control is real long. It runs the length of the housing. It might just need cleaning. To get the top control pod off you have to take the entire control off the handle bar. There are two screws on the bottom and are only accessed from inside the top half of the bottom pod. (if that makes sense. I couldn't think of any other way to describe it.) If you have spray contact cleaner, spray it in there and rotate the knob back and forth. If the symptoms don't go away it could be a contact problem elsewhere.

Great! I have some Boeshield T9 ordered for some of my other switches.
I'll try that.

[Bluewaterhooker0]

The shaft on that control is real long. It runs the length of the housing. It might just need cleaning. To get the top control pod off you have to take the entire control off the handle bar. There are two screws on the bottom and are only accessed from inside the top half of the bottom pod. (if that makes sense. I couldn't think of any other way to describe it.) If you have spray contact cleaner, spray it in there and rotate the knob back and forth. If the symptoms don't go away it could be a contact problem elsewhere.

Great! I have some Boeshield T9 ordered for some of my other switches.
I'll try that.

I don't know that Boeshield is the best thing to use on switches, and I would hesitate to put it on a rheostat, which I think makes up the fader switch. I've used Boeshield for years on my boat electrical connections, for waterproofing. It's great stuff for what it' s intended, but that is primarily for non-moving parts. When dry, it leaves a wax coating, that is pretty solid. I don't think that would be good on switches and the like. I would start with contact cleaner to see if it has any effect, then move on to a silicone spray or something lighter for protection.

[Fiberthree]

Great! I have some Boeshield T9 ordered for some of my other switches.
I'll try that.

I don't know that Boeshield is the best thing to use on switches, and I would hesitate to put it on a rheostat, which I think makes up the fader switch. I've used Boeshield for years on my boat electrical connections, for waterproofing. It's great stuff for what it' s intended, but that is primarily for non-moving parts. When dry, it leaves a wax coating, that is pretty solid. I don't think that would be good on switches and the like. I would start with contact cleaner to see if it has any effect, then move on to a silicone spray or something lighter for protection.

+ 1on that!
You don't want to use anything that will attract or hold dirt and the rheostat just has a carbon film surface you don't want to coat with anything. Those switch pods aren't exactly air tight and a lot of gritty dust does get in.

[gipsy42]

Just got a '99 GL-1500 SE.
The fader knob on the left handlebar does not work. Rolling it forward or back does
nothing...until it hits either end. Then all audio goes away completely.
Also....The left speakers, front and rear, are not working at all.
I'm wondering if the two problems could be related.
Anyone have any experience with the fader control and what
to look for, or how to fix it?
Thanks guys.

Hi offcenter:
After reading your post I'll say to have a different tough; since the sound goes out at fader's either end of travel, that suggest me the problem is beyond it, I would say that gray or blue/gray wire which are common to left channel is grounded somewhere along its way. I'd start looking at rear left speaker, for the wires going there are more exposed by the trunk lid hinge.

[offcenter]

If you remember, I had no left speakers and the fader didn't work on the remaining right side speakers.
I suspected that the two problems might be related.
They were!

After studying the schematic, I removed the left side fairing cover
and unplugged the fader control.
You would THINK that with the fader unplugged, I would get NO
sound from ANY speaker.
No! Quite the opposite! I now get full glorious and equal sound
from all FOUR speakers!
I don't need the fader. It's obviously shorted internally, so it will remain unplugged.

Thank you for the help, guys!

[gipsy42]

Ok, glad you've found the trouble, in fact your fader or cables going to are shorted out.
But bear in mind that leaving that circuit open (without fader) probably will supply less audio power because it's leaving each pair of speakers (front & rear) hooked up in series instead of being in parallel as is designed to be. It's my though.

[WingAdmin]

Ok, glad you've found the trouble, in fact your fader or cables going to are shorted out.
But bear in mind that leaving that circuit open (without fader) probably will supply less audio power because it's leaving each pair of speakers (front & rear) hooked up in series instead of being in parallel as is designed to be. It's my though.

Actually, if you study that crazy, convoluted circuit diagram, you'll find that the speakers are run in series all the time, whether or not the fader is there. The fader just decides which speaker gets biased more - but when it is set to the center (all four speakers running) you are getting the same amount of power to each speaker as when the fader is not connected at all.

[gipsy42]

Actually, if you study that crazy, convoluted circuit diagram, you'll find that the speakers are run in series all the time, whether or not the fader is there. The fader just decides which speaker gets biased more - but when it is set to the center (all four speakers running) you are getting the same amount of power to each speaker as when the fader is not connected at all.

Yes you're right, I missed that point. Thanks a lot.

[offcenter]

LOL!!
It's working great without the fader.
I had it out last night for a evening ride and it was a blast
cruisin' to Willy Nelson singing "On The Road Again"!
LOL!!

[herve123]

Salut,
J’ai mon fader qui vient de me lâcher et je voudrais le déconnecter. peux-tu me dire où se trouve le correcteur dont tu parles dans ton poste ? j’ai un modèle SE de 1999