Carb problems

[rfriedersdorf]

I have a 1994 Gl1500. I bought it used last year (2016). It only had 65,000 miles on it. It runs great except there is a problem on low end, under 1500 rpm, around town or on take off there is a slight miss. At highway speeds or over 1500 rpm all is ok. Bikes starts good and has been all winter long. It was pretty bad when I got it. Talked to a local Honda Dealer and they said I could have them fix it which would be about a $300.00 fee to clean the carbs, or I could run Sea Foam through it. I chose the Sea Foam route. It has really helped but hasn't cured it. They said sounds like the low speed jets have dirt in them. Any suggestions outside of taking the carbs off and cleaning them? The is really beyond my capabilities. Also any ideas why a fuel gauge that worked fine would start showing full until you get down to half a tank, then the gauge all at once drops and shows 1/4 tank? When you fill up the bike, it shows full again. This is also on the 1994 Goldwing.
Thanks for any help.

[Bluewaterhooker0]

How many actual miles have you run the Seafoam through ?
And, how much idle time have you run the Seafoam ?
It can take some time to really do its job. You may want to run it rather strong, like a whole can in a tank of gas. And, let it sit, after it has gotten into the carb circuits. Plus, let it run at idle rather extensively, since the idle circuits may be your issue. Make sure your cooling system and fans are working properly when you let it idle. However, the accelerator pump/s may also be a problem, as well. But do give the Seafoam time to do its job, and under the right running circumstances.

Regarding the fuel gauge. Either a bad sending unit, or misadjusted float arm on the sender unit. But, the symptoms sound more like a sender unit. Maybe some crud has accumulated on the rheostat of the sender unit. Soaking the moving electrical part of the sender in some Seafoam overnight might clean it, and restore operation. As I recall, the test for the gauge consists of nothing more than grounding that sender wire (briefly) to see if the gauge makes it full travel movement. No longer than is necessary to run the test. If so, probably the sender.

[RBGERSON]

Your hesitation issue could be more serious..IE leaky vacuum tubes under the carbs..same fix pull the carbs clean them and replace all the rubber tubes..kind of pain but old rubber does crack..there is one spot a 90* bend that is usually the culprit..but while you are at replacing all the rubber lines makes sense.

The gauge/sender issue ..fairly easy to get at the sender unit..that's where I would start..seat off, pull the unit and take a look..gas tank empty..stick your hand in and move the unit see what it does..key on..clean it up???

PS you might want to think about changing the timing belts if they haven't been done..your mileage isn't too high but they could be over 20 years old???

[rfriedersdorf]

Thank guys for your help. Will try the suggestion on the sea foam and running it at Idle before I get to the carb lines. On the issue of the fuel gauge, it goes to empty when key is turned off. When key is on it goes to full until it gets to about a 1/4 of a tank, then it goes to around 1/2 tank or less. So when weather gets warmer, will check the sending unit. I plan on changing the timing belts this summer, I changed them on the 88 gl1500 that I have, last summer. The 88 runs perfect and the gas gauge works on it. I bought it in 2012 from Texas. It had set a lot and some covers were missing or broke, the seat was terrible. it did have low end problems like my 94, so I ran about 3 or 4 cans of sea foam through it, and that fixed it. What really fixed it was changing the timing belts, it was off 1 tooth like some one had done it before and didn't get it quite right. It is in need of some cosmetic work like maybe a paint job. I have put new tires on it and some chrome. If I can get the 94 smoothed out, may sell the 88.
Thanks

[spiralout]

It runs great except there is a problem on low end, under 1500 rpm, around town or on take off there is a slight miss. At highway speeds or over 1500 rpm all is ok. ... Any suggestions outside of taking the carbs off and cleaning them?

My suggestion would be not to ride it around at 1500 and less rpm.

[MikeB]

...a local Honda Dealer and they said I could have them fix it which would be about a $300.00 fee to clean the carbs, or I could run Sea Foam through it. I chose the Sea Foam route. It has really helped but hasn't cured it. They said sounds like the low speed jets have dirt in them.

I think the dealer has it right. the idle and low speed circuits may well be dirty with fuel contaminants. With only sixty some thousand miles on a twenty three year old bike, its a good bet it has sat for some time and is in need of a good carb cleaning. $300 is a very good price to have that done. I'd take them up on that offer if I were you. And while they were there, replace the thermostat housing and seal and all the rubber lines and sealing o-rings down there that can only be gotten to with the carb off.

[CRAFFS]

Hallo to All,

I am from South Africa and new to this forum. I own a 1993 Goldwing GL1500 (bought new) with 32000 miles on the "clock". I have been working "away" from home and my bike have been hibernating for two years. I managed to start it about six months ago but it had a "serious flatspot" from standstill and accelerating from low rpm. I tried to start it recently but no-go. I sprayed some "easy-start" into the carbs and it fired-up immediately (and kept running until the "easy start" can was empty). To make a long story short(er), it is a 1993 model, the carbs have never been removed and I believe the correct way forward is to remove/strip/clean the carbs, drain the tank and replace all hoses (including the vacuum hoses). I have removed some of the body panels, air filter etc. up to the point of removing the reverse lever where I got stuck.

Can anybody please recommend which workshop manual I should purchase that gives all strip-down steps for the carbs removal in detail.

I will highly appreciate,
Thank you & regards, Johann

[DenverWinger]

Johann, first of all welcome to this forum!

There are plenty of good Step-by-Step DIY (Do It Yourself) articles with lots of detailed photos right here on this site, mostly prepared by the site administrator, but many more done by dedicated members. Look around on the site!

Before you condemn the carburetors, please check the operation of the "Petcock" valve, located in the fuel access cover, just above the fuel filler neck. It is a vacuum operated valve, which prevents fuel from the pump flowing into the carburetors if there is no vacuum present from the engine running. Could be the vacuum line has a leak and the valve won't open, or could be the diaphragm in the valve is leaky causing the valve to not open.

From mentioning the previous "flatspot", carb repair is probably in order (thinking accelerator pump or vacuum line leaks) but that shouldn't prevent it from starting on its own without ether spray...

Another good place to look is our "sister" site, www.goldwingfacts.com. Many friendly people there that are members here, too. And more DIY articles.

Best of luck!

[CRAFFS]

Hi "DenverWinger",

Thank you very much for your reply and my apology for the late reply. I will definitely have a look on the site (should have done it in the first place!).
Thank you for the valuable tips, I will check that for sure. Winter is on it's way down here and I thought it will be time well spent to go through the complete fuel, brake & cooling system as the bike is already 25 years old and no parts (especially hoses/pipes/lines) on these systems have been replaced.

Kind regards, Johann

[waynedudes]

I have a 94 GL 1500 that only has a little over 50,000 miles on it. It ran great until I quit riding it a couple years ago. "If you don't use it you lose it". I start it up and it will only run with the choke on. It hesitates or stalls badly with choke off when I crank the throttle. I am pretty sure that the problem is junk in the carbs. I have drained the tank twice and put sea foam in with premium fuel. I am now thinking I need to get to the carbs and shoot some carb cleaner directly in the carbs. The carbs were supposed to have been rebuilt with new baffles a few years ago?

[bbrackett]

my issue was the Accellerator Pump tube that goes to the top plate ( easy to remove )
it was plugged up, and the jets on the top were also a bit plugged up.
easy to remove and clear with carb cleaner
my pump was also loosely fastened, the two screws were not tight, but it was also not leaking.

I think part of my issue is the Right Side Float Level is/wasn't ideal.