How to make your own fork seal driver and not pay £80 pounds for it !!


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wingdings
Posts: 466
Joined: Mon Feb 10, 2014 12:48 pm
Location: mells , England, United Kingdom
Motorcycle: Honda Goldwing gl 1989

How to make your own fork seal driver and not pay £80 pounds for it !!

Post by wingdings »



Hi - folks - Just finishing off now my front fork rebuild on my Honda Goldwing GL1500k - 1989 - I have been using wing admins most excellent how to rebuild your forks - viewtopic.php?t=16118 - I came to the bit regarding buying a seal driver - and when I reviewed the cost - some £80 pounds - I decided to look for a cheaper more cost effective way of driving the seals in - which came to £5 pounds rather than £80 pounds for the shop bought one .

The tool its self is easy to make and only requires a vice and a saw and steady hand to cut the plastic pipe square at both ends and one cut down one side of the pipe . The only other thing you will have to buy is a 50mm ( 2"inch ) exhaust clamp - Available from any good motor factors or local garage .

Here is a picture of the tool below - very simple to make but highly effective too !!




Ok then - how to make your own seal driver and not pay £80 pounds for the shop version .

Tools list :-

1- off- saw ( suitable for cutting plastic waste pipe dead square both ends !! ) .

1-off- vice .

Materials list :-

1- off 50mm ( 2"inch exhaust clamp ) .

1-off length of ( 45mm )( 1"-3/4 ) plastic waste pipe .

Method :-

Start by cutting the plastic waist pipe to size - you will need to cut two pieces one cut at ( 90mm )( 3"-1/2 inchs ) make sure you cut these pipes square at both ends !! or the seal driver wont work !! ( see pic below ) .




Next cut the second pipe to size - This pipe should be a little bit bigger than the first pipe cut this one off at (1100mm)(4"-1/4inchs ) again make sure the ends are cut of square !! . ( see pic below ) .




Next - With the pipes now cut to size and the ends cut off square - mark a line down one side of the pipes then run a saw down this line to cut open one side of the pipes - This will allow the pipe to expand around the fork tube. ( see pic below ) .




Next - With all the cutting done now - take some wire wool or fine sand paper and give the pipes a good rub over just to get rid of any plastic burrs left after the cutting. ( see pic below note the clean bore inside the pipe !! . )




Here is a picture of the finished tool .. ( see pic below )




All pics of this project are available for viewing just click on this link - https://1drv.ms/f/s!AghZXu-GTTGro32esFF-P7MxCQO7

Well done too - Grab a beer - You just saved yourself £80- pounds for less than a hours work too !! ..

Full instructions for using this tool and see the tool in action will follow in my next post below this one the post will also include a handy tip to stop you tearing up your brand new seal if you have a pitted fork as I did on one off mine it involves a plastic milk bottle ?? .



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wingdings
Posts: 466
Joined: Mon Feb 10, 2014 12:48 pm
Location: mells , England, United Kingdom
Motorcycle: Honda Goldwing gl 1989

Re: How to make your own fork seal driver and not pay £80 pounds for it !!

Post by wingdings »

Hi - Folks this is part 2 of the how to make your own fork seal driver and not pay £80 pounds for it ..

Here are the instructions for the tool and a useful tip to for dealing with a pitted fork stem with sharp edges and how to avoid tearing up the inside of your brand new seal - Just using a plastic mike bottle carton .

first - Assuming that you have stripped the forks down and have separated them into two half's and have removed both the springs and oil as per wing admins - how to - view topic - viewtopic.php?t=16118 and rebuild the bushings and are now ready to install the bushing and back up ring and the oil seal .

Ok - slide the bottom fork unit back into the top unit until the top fork slide hits the bottom - Then pull the fork stem out a little say 6"-8 " inchs it wants to be puled out enough so that when you slide on the bushing and place the driver on and tighten up that the fork stem does not hit the bottom ( you are going to use the stem as a sliding driver once you have tightened up the tool - so you don't want the fork hitting the bottom of the bottom fork unit ) . ( see pic below )




As you can see in the pic the tool is now set up to drive home the copper bush ( note here why the black pipe is longer than the white and how it is set up to - when your happy that you have enough clearance inside the bottom unit and the fork slide does not hit the bottom before you have driven home the bush - hold the fork with both hands and with a sliding action start sliding both the fork slide and the driving tool in wards - you will feel the bush yielding with every blow of the driver tool - it will bounce back when you have driven the bushing home at this point - STOP !! .

Next - Lay the fork unit down on a clean surface and remove the driver tool .

Next - With the diver tool now removed side down the steel back up ring insuring the chaffered side faces down towards the new bush and the rough side towards the new oil seal .

Next - Before you can install the new oil seal you need to protect it from being torn up on any pit marks on the forks - You can do this in a very easy way too !! - Take a old plastic milk bottle carton wash it out clean - Cut it in half - cut a strip out of the middle of the bottle so you have enough to wrap around the fork stem plus a little more too just to over lap it . ( see pics below )




Next - With the plastic strip now cut - lay it flat down on a clean surface smear and cover one side of the plastic with red rubber grease also smear the oil seal on both the in side and out - Smear also all round the bottom of the fork tube near the bottom of the fork - for about 4inchs this is to also aid the oil seal - once you have slid it off the plastic onto the last 4inchs.

ENSURE - YOUR OIL SEAL IS FACING THE CORRECT WAY - THE DEEP SIDE - FACING DOWN TOWARDS THE BACK UP RING !! AND THE SHALLOW SIDE UP TOWARDS THE CAP END OF THE FORK - CHECK BEFORE PROCEEDING !! .

Next - With the plastic now prepared with red grease and the seal as well - Make a cone shape over the end of the fork cap end -slide the well greased oil seal over the plastic and onto the fork stem ( see pic below )




As you can see in the picture above the new seal is well protected now and will not get lacerated as you slide it down the fork stem - doing it this way ensures against any leaks later !! .

Next - With both the plastic and the seal now slid down the fork tube to the last 4"inchs ( see pic below ) Slide the oil seal off the plastic and remove the plastic away from the work area .





Next - With the oil seal now near the place you require it - stand the fork upright - you should be able to slide and seat the oil seal with just using the flats of your fingers do not dig your nails into the seal push down into the end of the bottom unit .

Next - Pull the fork tube out a little just enough now so you can clear the bottom of the fork bottom and enough so you can place the seal diver tool back on again - with out hitting the bottom of the forks as again you will be using the fork stem as a driving tool along with the driver and you don't want to be hitting the bottom before you have driven the seal home .

Next - Note this time when you set up the seal driver tool the outer pipe needs to over lap the inner one - This is so that when you drive the seal home you are only hitting the outer edge of the seal not the fragile inner seal area . Repeat the procedure as before for the bushing as soon as the seal stops yielding and bounces back !! - STOP !! Check to see that the seal is sat below were the locking ring sits - if it does - you can the remove the driver tool - and place the locking ring back into position with that done slide on the dust seal no need to protect this as it not a oil seal - pop this back into place that part of the job is now done .






All - pics of this project are available to view on the following link - https://1drv.ms/f/s!AghZXu-GTTGro34wAT6VmRcllbyL

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gipsy42
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Re: How to make your own fork seal driver and not pay £80 pounds for it !!

Post by gipsy42 »

Congrats Wingdings.
This is what I love of this place, people that share a smart idea for the DIY.
Thank you!! ;)
Mario
aka Gipsy42
And still riding...
I just regrets the things I haven't done.

http://www.surfcam.com.ar
http://www.cre-angeles.org.ar

User avatar
wingdings
Posts: 466
Joined: Mon Feb 10, 2014 12:48 pm
Location: mells , England, United Kingdom
Motorcycle: Honda Goldwing gl 1989

Re: How to make your own fork seal driver and not pay £80 pounds for it !!

Post by wingdings »

Good morning there - and many thanks for your positive - Comment too !! - I totally agree with you as well sharing what you know with fellow wingers out there is very important indeed !! - no one knows every thing - however if we share what we do know - we can all have a better time and save cash on keeping our wings in top condition - as you know yourself - Tools and labour costs are now becoming a big problem more so now as Honda have stopped making some parts for the 1500 so the more sharing is done the better yes ?? ..

best regards - john .. :D :D :D

User avatar
wingdings
Posts: 466
Joined: Mon Feb 10, 2014 12:48 pm
Location: mells , England, United Kingdom
Motorcycle: Honda Goldwing gl 1989

Re: How to make your own fork seal driver and not pay £80 pounds for it !!

Post by wingdings »

:) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :D :D :D

User avatar
wingdings
Posts: 466
Joined: Mon Feb 10, 2014 12:48 pm
Location: mells , England, United Kingdom
Motorcycle: Honda Goldwing gl 1989

Re: How to make your own fork seal driver and not pay £80 pounds for it !!

Post by wingdings »

Hi folks - here is a vid of the tool in action there !! :D :D :D :D :D :D



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