Replacing fork oil


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Redhot
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Replacing fork oil

Post by Redhot » Thu Feb 01, 2018 7:23 am



Gl1500 1989. No valves in caps. To avoid the pain in the backside of compressing caps to screw back in, can you reverse fill from drain bolt hole ?



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Re: Replacing fork oil

Post by WingAdmin » Thu Feb 01, 2018 9:41 am

Redhot wrote:
Thu Feb 01, 2018 7:23 am
Gl1500 1989. No valves in caps. To avoid the pain in the backside of compressing caps to screw back in, can you reverse fill from drain bolt hole ?
I suppose it's possible...but how are you going to keep it from draining back out while you're trying to put the bolt back in the drain hole, and how will you know that the correct level of fluid is installed? It's fairly important that you have the correct level of fluid in the forks. You can't really go by putting x number of ounces in, because (unless you completely clean it out and dry it) you will always have some remaining inside.

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virgilmobile
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Re: Replacing fork oil

Post by virgilmobile » Thu Feb 01, 2018 10:24 am

I'll say no.I tried that on my 88.As I pumped it into the bottom it pressurized the fork and squirted it back out.I had to loosen the caps...then it was a mess..I dogged it off and just popped the caps out..What fun finding the one across the shop under the tool chest...I did drill and tap the caps for future oil changes with a syringe.
The "fun"part was putting the caps back on...
Trust me on this one...Remove the spring..start threading the cap on and turn it back till the threads release...Mark the cap and fork this position...put the spring back in and line up the cap..With your special removal tool compress the spring and thread the cap back on.
Good luck with that too.PITA.

The forks can be filled through the threaded plug or before the caps are put back.
And no..I don't recommend drilling the caps while on the fork.unless your really good at keeping metal shavings out.

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Re: Replacing fork oil

Post by Redhot » Thu Feb 01, 2018 12:43 pm

Thanks. Virgilmobile, I think your experience is the one I was trying to avoid. Guess I'll have to Do it the standard way :( Will drill caps once removed for future. Good tip on marking cap. Did you use a proper compression tool (I haven't got one) or find another way ? I'm was going to use a hex socket with a t bar.

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Erdeniz Umman
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Re: Replacing fork oil

Post by Erdeniz Umman » Thu Feb 01, 2018 1:20 pm

My fork caps did not have the schrader valves, I modified the caps when I removed the forks for seal replacement, and discovered that not only the oil level (not amount believe me) but also the air trapped over the oil inside is very important for perfect suspension.

After the modification of the fork caps, I prepared a rod (45cm in length) and used a clamp to adjust it to the correct level and attached a piece of clear hose and a syringe to its end.

With this method, what we are actually doing is, since the forks are at full length, we are filling air in and after lowering the bike on the front wheel that amount of air trapped inside is helping a lot to the suspension behaving like a spring.

Here is a link describing the method and the correct level of oil according to the models and types of the spring.

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-g ... right.html

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virgilmobile
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Re: Replacing fork oil

Post by virgilmobile » Fri Feb 02, 2018 11:50 am

I made a "T" bar.Stood on the seat and tank to compress the spring.Glad I had to do this just once.

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MikeB
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Re: Replacing fork oil

Post by MikeB » Sat Feb 03, 2018 12:55 am

Assuming you are doing the work with the forks still on the bike, I suggest using a speed handle.


By the way, be sure you have a floor jack or some kind of support under the engine with the wheel off the ground.

I have done it a few times before I finally bought the Honda recommended tool.

Do it with the windshield removed from the bike.
Loosen the top triple tree clamp bolt at the top of the fork tube.
Loosen the fork cap with a suitable wrench. I use an air impact wrench with the proper socket.
Put the hex socket or the hex wrench (whichever is necessary) on the end of the speed handle.
Stand on the rider foot pegs so you can put downward pressure on the wrench and fork cap in line with the fork.
Rotate the fork cap slowly counter clockwise for removal while maintaining pressure on the speed handle.

For installation, rotate the fork cap slowly clockwise while maintaining pressure on the speed handle.

It should not take a lot of pressure. The spring only protrudes an inch or so.
MikeB
Tacoma, WA, USA

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curtm
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Re: Replacing fork oil

Post by curtm » Sat Feb 03, 2018 9:44 am

what size of hole are you drilling and threading in to the cap, and what kinda plug are you using, planning on doing mine

Redhot
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Re: Replacing fork oil

Post by Redhot » Sat Feb 03, 2018 10:17 am

Curtm..8mm button cap. This is basically a domed head with a hex. Use a washer with a small rubber ring underneath just to make sure it seals. Forks have no air pressure in, but when they compress they will have so it needs to be airtight. This is info from another member. Dustyboots. 1988 fork rebuild. He's also got pics.

MikeB.. I really want do do forks in place if possible. Speed handles a great tip, as is removing the screen, which I have to do at some point anyway. I was under the impression that the springs were under a lot of pressure and a pig to compress, requiring removal, and a makeshift compression clamp. Is yours also the 1500, stock or progressive springs ?

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Re: Replacing fork oil

Post by MikeB » Sat Feb 03, 2018 10:26 am

The first time I had to work with the forks, they were OEM springs and I used the speed handle. I've used the speed handle on two different sets.

Since I like to thoroughly clean and flush the fork tubes, I bought the OEM tool for fork disassembly. It also makes it easier for bushing and seal replacement.
I have not had to use the speed handle for fork disassembly since getting the OEM tool.

My current 1500 has Race Tech springs in them. I have a spare set of forks that have Progressive springs in them.

One more thing, the GL1800 does not need a special tool for fork disassembly.
MikeB
Tacoma, WA, USA

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Re: Replacing fork oil

Post by Redhot » Sat Feb 03, 2018 10:55 am

Not sure what springs are in mine. How did you find racetech over progressive over OEM ? Have you ever replaced old OEM with new OEM ? Ta for the help.

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MikeB
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Re: Replacing fork oil

Post by MikeB » Sat Feb 03, 2018 3:56 pm

Race Tech is really no different than Progressive in feel or price. Either one is good.

OEM springs are too soft for my taste and there is too much sag by the time they have 20,000 miles on them or so. That is pretty much why Progressive and Race Tech springs are on the market not to mention a plethora of other manufacturers.
MikeB
Tacoma, WA, USA

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curtm
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Re: Replacing fork oil

Post by curtm » Sat Feb 03, 2018 5:33 pm

Redhot appreciate the info, 8MM button head works, next time i do the oil change will put them in, to get the caps on last time i used a t handle the the 17mm allen, went in pretty easy, but dont cross thread, these are pretty easy to do compared to my 1300 VTX, they have a heavier spring them
thanks again guys

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wingdings
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Re: Replacing fork oil

Post by wingdings » Sat Feb 03, 2018 7:43 pm

try this redhot - view this link - viewtopic.php?t=25595 - hope it helps !!!! ...

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curtm
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Re: Replacing fork oil

Post by curtm » Sun Feb 04, 2018 10:31 am

excellent info
Thanks

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curtm
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Re: Replacing fork oil

Post by curtm » Sun Feb 04, 2018 10:32 am

excellent info
Thanks

Redhot
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Re: Replacing fork oil

Post by Redhot » Sun Feb 04, 2018 3:08 pm

Curt..dustyboots was the originator of this info, glad to pass it on
Windings. Thanks for the link, that was the tool I will try to replicate.
Mike B. I don't want to get rid of the plushness, but the amount of sag coming off the side stand is excessive, as you have experienced. Where possible, I've previously set bikes at about a third, this feels about 50% Think I'm coming round to progressives, but maybe put in a 5w oil. I've put stiffer springs in another bike, and dropped oil weight to iron out a bit of harshness.



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