1997 GL1500SE CARB PILOT SCREW ADJUSTMENT


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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jim34481
Posts: 61
Joined: Wed Jan 11, 2017 5:25 pm
Location: Ocala,FL
Motorcycle: 1997 GL 1500 SE
2006 GL 1800

Prior Motorcycles owned
1965 Honda CB 50 1965 - 67
1967 Honda CB 160 1967 - 68
1968 Honda CB 450 1969 - 70
1974 Honda CB 750 1977
1978 Honda CB 750K 1977 - 80
1985 Honda GL 1200 1994
1995 Honda GL 1500 1994 - 99

1997 GL1500SE CARB PILOT SCREW ADJUSTMENT

Post by jim34481 » Thu Mar 08, 2018 5:57 am



I rebuilt a pair of carbs I bought and set the pilot screw at two turns out from seated position as stated in the factory shop manual . I removed my old carbs and put the rebuilt ones on. I got it started and set the idle to 800 rpm using the sync screw. It took the throttle without any hesitation. Then I tried to follow the shop manual to adjust the pilot screw and to sync the carbs. It got so bad the engine quit running so I went back to the 2 turns out on the pilot screw and set the idle with the sync screw without the vacuum gages. I took it for a ride and it runs very good.

What is the theory of operation of the pilot screw? Does it meter air or fuel? When turning the screw out does that lean or richen the mixture?
Thanks
Jim



DaveO430
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Motorcycle: 2010 GL1800
2004 Suzuki DR200

Re: 1997 GL1500SE CARB PILOT SCREW ADJUSTMENT

Post by DaveO430 » Thu Mar 08, 2018 6:16 am

First off, why are you setting the idle speed with the synch screw? Out (CCW) on the pilot screws is richer. Leave them at 2 turns, set the idle with the idle stop cable, synch and readjust idle speed.

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jim34481
Posts: 61
Joined: Wed Jan 11, 2017 5:25 pm
Location: Ocala,FL
Motorcycle: 1997 GL 1500 SE
2006 GL 1800

Prior Motorcycles owned
1965 Honda CB 50 1965 - 67
1967 Honda CB 160 1967 - 68
1968 Honda CB 450 1969 - 70
1974 Honda CB 750 1977
1978 Honda CB 750K 1977 - 80
1985 Honda GL 1200 1994
1995 Honda GL 1500 1994 - 99

Re: 1997 GL1500SE CARB PILOT SCREW ADJUSTMENT

Post by jim34481 » Thu Mar 08, 2018 12:41 pm

On the first start the engine ran at 2000 rpm. I tried to reduce it with the idle adjust screw in the fuel access door but it had zero affect. The only way I could reduce the engine rpm was to use the sync screw. Once I got it down to below 1000 rpm, I could then use the idle adjust screw to set the idle. I should have explained what I did better in the first post. Thanks for the info on the pilot screw.
Jim

rrago
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Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2012 11:40 am
Location: West Hempstead, NY
Motorcycle: 1998 GL1500se

Re: 1997 GL1500SE CARB PILOT SCREW ADJUSTMENT

Post by rrago » Fri Mar 09, 2018 5:01 pm

so you were WAY out of sync. Have you re-checked the sync using the vacuum gauges? after which you should adjust the idle.

Remember, sync with a hot engine, no choke.

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TheChief
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Location: Richmond, Virginia
Motorcycle: 1999 Goldwing Aspencade SE GL-1500, 2000 Goldwing GL-1500 SE.
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Re: 1997 GL1500SE CARB PILOT SCREW ADJUSTMENT

Post by TheChief » Fri Mar 09, 2018 6:19 pm

That carb was way out of synch to start with. I ran into this with a "new" 2000 that I bought this past October.

I rode it a little and I noticed the idle fluctuated after the engine warmed up, and it was running rich.
I put the bike up for the winter and when I got my tax refund I tore into it.

I put new tires on (both were shot), new brake pads (old ones were paper thin), flushed the brake and clutch systems, took off this awful wrap around light bar, took some ugly amber lights off of the wheel covers, added an LED trunk light, changed the oil, oil filter and air filter,installed HID headlights and an LED position light and some other nickel and dime stuff, but the biggie was replacing the timing belts (which required new coolant).

I get it running and the idle surge was gone, but the engine just didn't sound right and when I put my Carb Tune synchronizer on I found out why.. After a couple of tweaks on the Sync screw she settled down and now she purrs like a kitten.

The take away from this is a Honda engine is quiet. Worn timing belts and carbs out of synch will make one rattle like a box o'rocks, and the reason it two fold.

First, with the cabs out of sych one bank is making more power than the other (bearings, con rods, and wrist pins just love this...), and second, worn timing belts change the valve timing which also affects power. If you really want to hear an engine rattle, find a Kawasaki Voyager 1200, a Yammy RSTD, or a Yammy Venture Royale with the carbs out of synch.. Instead of opposing banks being out of synch you get 4 cylinders out of sync.. Shake, rattle and roll....

Another take away is in both cases, mine and the OP's, someone did something they shouldn't have, more than likely to "hide" a problem they either couldn't or didn't want to fix. The reason the OP couldn't adjust the idle is because the carbs were WAY out or synch.

As a counter point, I did pretty much the same things to my '99 that I just did to the '00, but when I put the Carb Tune on the '99, no adjustment was necessary and the '99 runs smooth as glass...

@Jim.. Do yourself, your wallet, and your Wing a HUGE favor and do a proper carb synch..
Cliff Hipsher
ICC USN (Ret.)
'99 Honda Goldwing Aspencade SE
'00 Honda Goldwing Aspencade SE
I.A.M.B.K.
Safety is NO accident.
I Ride. Therefore I am....

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wingdings
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Re: 1997 GL1500SE CARB PILOT SCREW ADJUSTMENT

Post by wingdings » Sun Mar 18, 2018 5:46 am

Hi - There saw your post - Take a look at this vid - it may help you figure out where you are going wrong



and



Take a look also at these two vids - Too found them very usefull too :










lastly too also which rebuild kit did you use too - there are a lot of crap ones out there -

read - this :

Exclusive proprietary item and world's best kit!
The GL1500 Master Carb Overhaul Kit includes everything you need (and nothing you don't!) for a comprehensive carb overhaul. These carbs are quite simple and very easy to overhaul. The most difficult part is removal and re-installation of the body "Tupperware," etc. to get to them!
If you've studied Honda's parts fiches for each model year, you'll discover that Honda made many mistakes, duplications, omissions and outright illogical content decisions in their coverage of carb repair "packing sets" for the GL1500. One example: the only way to get the necessary o-rings for the accelerator pump discharge tube from Honda is to buy a whole new accelerator pump discharge tube! Aftermarket repair kits suffer from all these problems.
This Master Kit avoids these issues. You will have all the expendable parts you need to do a thorough, comprehensive overhaul.
You won't find this available anywhere else. Sourced for the best available parts from 3 continents and combined them in a unique combination that represents real value. Kit is appropriate for any 1988 - 2000 GL1500 with original carbs.
The round o-rings in each Master Kit is made of Viton rather than ordinary nitrile (Buna-N) as found in other aftermarket carb kits. Viton is superior to nitrile in terms of:
Heat tolerance (400 degrees F vs. 250 degrees F)
Compression set
Permeation
Did you know that one good case of severe engine overheating can ruin the carb o-rings found in ordinary kits? My o-rings are the best available!
O-ring sizes in this kit are precise. They're equivalent to the exact sizes specified by Honda for each fitment. Not "close-enough" sizes as in many aftermarket kits

And visit this web site - https://www.randakks.com/randakks-own-g ... l-kit.html

hope this helps best regards and good luck too !!!! ... :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

User avatar
jim34481
Posts: 61
Joined: Wed Jan 11, 2017 5:25 pm
Location: Ocala,FL
Motorcycle: 1997 GL 1500 SE
2006 GL 1800

Prior Motorcycles owned
1965 Honda CB 50 1965 - 67
1967 Honda CB 160 1967 - 68
1968 Honda CB 450 1969 - 70
1974 Honda CB 750 1977
1978 Honda CB 750K 1977 - 80
1985 Honda GL 1200 1994
1995 Honda GL 1500 1994 - 99

Re: 1997 GL1500SE CARB PILOT SCREW ADJUSTMENT

Post by jim34481 » Sun Mar 18, 2018 9:11 am

Since my last post I decided to revisit the pilot screw adjustments. On the set of carbs I bought, the pilot screws were as follows: Right - 2 5/8 turn out and the left- was 1 3/4 turn out. The carbs mounted on the wing were as follows: Right- 2 7/8 turn out and the left was 2 turns out. I took an average of the two and set the rebuilt carbs pilot screws as follows: right to 2 3/4 turns out and the left to 1 7/8 turns out. With the pilot adjust screws set near the factory setting I have ridden the wing almost 300 miles. It is better but not where I want it. I did use Randakk's carb rebuild kit as well as OEM jets and floats. I set the floats at 7.5mm. I will try to sync the carbs again.
Thanks for all the info and advice.
Jim



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