Replace Trunk Lid Seal


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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TheChief
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Replace Trunk Lid Seal

Post by TheChief »



The trunk lid seal on my "new" 2000 GL1500 is a mess. Apparetly the P.O. used some form of rubber cement to keep the seal in place but the right end came loose and it was hanging. I have a new seal to install and I have all of the "glue" removed from the channel.

I have scoured the 'Net and I cannot find a "How To" for replacing the seal.

My question is, do I just "shove" the fat part of the seal in the channel, or do I need to use some form of adheasive?

Thanks.


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WingAdmin
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Re: Replace Trunk Lid Seal

Post by WingAdmin »

Good question. I've never done it, there's no mention of it in the manual, and I can't find any mention of it on the Internet anywhere.

So...my guess would be a conservative one: Try it first with a friction fit. Push it into place and see if it stays there when the trunk is opened and closed. If not, then perhaps look at using some adhesive. Something flexible, perhaps even weatherstrip adhesive.

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Re: Replace Trunk Lid Seal

Post by TheChief »

Thanks for the reply.

I tried just pushing the seal into the channel and it won't stay, so it looks like I need to use an adhesive...
Cliff Hipsher
ICC USN (Ret.)
'99 Honda Goldwing Aspencade SE
'00 Honda Goldwing Aspencade SE
I.A.M.B.K.
Safety is NO accident.
I Ride. Therefore I am....

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Mh434
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Re: Replace Trunk Lid Seal

Post by Mh434 »

If you really, REALLY, want it to stay, forever (and I mean that literally), you could use 3M 5200. Or, if only a 100 years or so will suffice, 3M 5300.

Builders of commercial aluminum fishing boats use 5200 for attaching pieces to the hulls (on the OUTSIDE), and many racing sailboat manufacturers use it for attaching keels...with no other fasteners.

The 5300 is a bit less aggressive, but still monstrously strong.

These are absolutely weatherproof, solvent-proof, flexible adhesives, with unbelievable holding power (hundreds of pounds per square inch).

Auto parts & marine supply stores carry them. They're available in black or white.

They're very easy to use, and come in a tube like toothpaste. Squeeze some out, work it into the groove in the rubber with a toothpick or screwdriver, then push the seal into place. Secure temporarily with a bit of masking tape if necessary.

The next day (or only after 10 minutes, if you use the "Quick-Set" version), a diesel locomotive couldn't pull it apart.

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Re: Replace Trunk Lid Seal

Post by C-dub »

I find myself in this same situation after having my left saddlebag replaced last year. The weatherstripping won't stay in place when it is too warm or too cold. The safe range it stays in is about 50-90F.

I want it to stay in place, but forever and 100 years might be a bit much. Any other suggestions that won't damage the weatherstripping, will keep it in place, but will also allow it to be removed if needed without having to cut it out?
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Erdeniz Umman
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Re: Replace Trunk Lid Seal

Post by Erdeniz Umman »

There is a service bulletin about this issue. Although it covers 1988 and 1989 models, it can be used to find the answers about the glue.
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Charlie1Horse
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Re: Replace Trunk Lid Seal

Post by Charlie1Horse »

If I were to try to replace the trunk seal, as I have done on autos, after cleaning the groove, I would spray some silicone in the groove and take one end of the seal and start in a back corner of the lid and try sliding it, (pulling it) all the way around until all the seal is in place. Then leave the lid open for the day to let the silicone spray evaporate and dry. This has worked for me with truck door seals that don't attach with clips and has always worked for me. Then maybe once a month wipe the seal with a cloth with a little silicone sprayed on it to insure it doesn't stick to the trunk body.
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ct1500
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Re: Replace Trunk Lid Seal

Post by ct1500 »

A very popular product in the industry is 3M weatherstrip adhesive "yellow glue". :)


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