Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting


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NOVAwing
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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by NOVAwing » Tue May 29, 2018 4:47 pm



Additonal update:

Pulled speedometer cable off front hub. Seems I inserted it correctly. The hub part was intact and spins when I changed the front tire.

Guess I need a new cable?

Anything else to check first?

Thanks,
NOVAwing



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Rednaxs60
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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by Rednaxs60 » Tue May 29, 2018 6:32 pm

Good to hear you got some joy happening. Would recommend looking into replacing the OEM brake and clutch lines with new lines. If you have a good hydraulic shop nearby, take in your old and the shop should be able to make you an exact duplicate. The lines are 25 years old, get soft, and rot from the inside out. The one you cleared is apparently doing this. Just a thought.

Cheers
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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by SG_Jay » Tue May 29, 2018 6:33 pm

If you have the Harbor freight vac tool, use that to bleed instead of pumping the pedal.

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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by Alan_Hepburn » Wed May 30, 2018 2:45 pm

NOVAwing wrote:
Tue May 29, 2018 4:09 pm

During bleeding sometimes I would get some resistance in the pedal, but then it went limp again next push of it.

I had the same issue when I bled my clutch - went through a whole bottle of fluid and had no pressure. I used a bungie cord and tied the lever up against the grip overnight and the next day the clutch felt the way it was supposed to feel!
Alan Hepburn - San Jose, Ca
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NOVAwing
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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by NOVAwing » Wed May 30, 2018 3:30 pm

Rednaxs60 wrote:
Tue May 29, 2018 6:32 pm
Good to hear you got some joy happening. Would recommend looking into replacing the OEM brake and clutch lines with new lines. If you have a good hydraulic shop nearby, take in your old and the shop should be able to make you an exact duplicate. The lines are 25 years old, get soft, and rot from the inside out. The one you cleared is apparently doing this. Just a thought.

Cheers
Thanks for the good idea. I will look into this, but right now trying to keep costs and work down as much as possible.

Braided steel lines are always a great upgrade for any vehicle.

Thanks,
NOVAwing

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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by NOVAwing » Wed May 30, 2018 3:32 pm

SG_Jay wrote:
Tue May 29, 2018 6:33 pm
If you have the Harbor freight vac tool, use that to bleed instead of pumping the pedal.
Thanks for the advice. I never tried just using the pedal.

Been using a transfer pump, then bought the mityvac m8000 at harbor frieght.

Works good once I got the line unclogged and flowing.

Now I just need it to build preasure.....

Thanks,
NOVAwing

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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by NOVAwing » Wed May 30, 2018 3:34 pm

Alan_Hepburn wrote:
Wed May 30, 2018 2:45 pm
NOVAwing wrote:
Tue May 29, 2018 4:09 pm

During bleeding sometimes I would get some resistance in the pedal, but then it went limp again next push of it.

I had the same issue when I bled my clutch - went through a whole bottle of fluid and had no pressure. I used a bungie cord and tied the lever up against the grip overnight and the next day the clutch felt the way it was supposed to feel!
Thanks for the idea.

I have used the transfer pump or mityvac for all the fluids so far.

This weekend I will get 2 more bottles of fluid and a new bleed screw for the rear, and go at it for awhile with the mityvac again. Hopefully this will yield results.

Thanks,
NOVAwing

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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by NOVAwing » Sun Jun 03, 2018 9:55 am

New update:

Riding around the other day for about an hour.

The front brake decided to partially lockup, then fade out till I had about 10% braking.

Very scary! I pulled over and looked at it and tapped on it, then after about 5 mins of I guess cooling off, it was back to mostly normal.

Yesterday, I bled the front brake lever, removed old brown fluid, flushed it good. Have not test riden it yet.

Also bled the front left again until it came out clear with no bubbles. Still no pedal pressure.

Then I could not do the rear caliper due to a storm coming.
Got some speed bleeder bleed screws to try on the rear caliper since the stock one keeps sucking air in the vacuum hose....terrible design tiny stock bleed scew neck and head.

Also drained the coolant. Temps have gotten close to max on the gauge. Been warm and 80%+ humidty here every day for a couple weeks now.

Found my lower front cover has both outer scew areas broken off and scews rusted in place. Cover held in by center screw only.

Will order new lower cover and work on removing rusted scews and replace them.

Lower bottom engine covers also busted and rusted looking.

Coolant drain went well, green coolant came out.
Flushed with 2 gallons of distilled water.
One fill and run till operating temp.
Them drained.
Then poured last gallon through and let it run out.

Refilled with 3.7 bottles of honda premixed blue coolant.

Temps still going just over half way on the gauge sitting on the centerstand. Was about 70 degrees and 80% humidity out.
Fans come on and run.
Coolant flows when fans come on.
So seems thermostat works, it has one right?

This seems to be running hot. Should it stay halfway like all cars do?
What could cause this?
Bad water pump?
Bad thermostat?

Ideas anyone?

Also noticed I randomly get a wet catch tray in the petcock/gas cap area.
Pervious fuel leak is gone, but I see fuel dripping from a hose under the bike now, I assume this is that catch tray drain hose.

Guess I need to order petcock rebuild kit?

Thanks for any wonderful advice guys!

NOVAwing

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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by terryt » Sun Jun 03, 2018 10:36 am

The fuel dripping from the hose under the bike may be from the carbs. there's two. one is a carb over flow the other is a float bowl drain off.

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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by NOVAwing » Sun Jun 03, 2018 3:42 pm

terryt wrote:
Sun Jun 03, 2018 10:36 am
The fuel dripping from the hose under the bike may be from the carbs. there's two. one is a carb over flow the other is a float bowl drain off.
Thanks, good to know!

Only 1 hose is dripping. When it does, the catch tray under the gas cap is wet with fuel.

Is it safe to say this is from the petcock leaking?

Thanks,
NOVAwing

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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by bellboy40 » Sun Jun 03, 2018 4:19 pm

Your engine temp sounds normal to me. It is not getting any air flow through the radiators with it sitting on the center stand. It will likely heat up a little past half way until the fans come on then it will cool down enough for them to go off if everything is working right. Riding down the road, most will have the temp gauge between 1/4 and 1/2 scale.
For your fuel leak, I would see if you can see it leaking from the petcock with it running. If so, you need a rebuild kit for it.

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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by SG_Jay » Sun Jun 03, 2018 10:54 pm

The front brake locking up on you happened to me some years ago on a virago I had. After a few miles the caliper would start to squeeze the rotor. If I stopped and cracked the bleeder it would shoot fluid out and free up. I chased the issue for a while and it ended up being a plugged return hole in the bottom of the master cylinder. I ran a guitar string through it to clean it out and it worked great after that. As the fluid heats up it needs somewhere to go. If the return is plugged, it pushes out on the pistons and your pads grab the rotor.

It was a really close call the first time it did it to me, could've been a lot worse. So keep an eye on that and if it keeps doing it, look into the return hole as a possible cause.

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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by DenverWinger » Mon Jun 04, 2018 6:54 am

On a hot day in stop-go traffic it isn't unusual to see temp hit 3/4 scale. I wouldn't worry about it unless the needle moves all the way to the red and you start seeing steam... :mrgreen:
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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by NOVAwing » Mon Jun 04, 2018 4:10 pm

bellboy40 wrote:
Sun Jun 03, 2018 4:19 pm
Your engine temp sounds normal to me. It is not getting any air flow through the radiators with it sitting on the center stand. It will likely heat up a little past half way until the fans come on then it will cool down enough for them to go off if everything is working right. Riding down the road, most will have the temp gauge between 1/4 and 1/2 scale.
For your fuel leak, I would see if you can see it leaking from the petcock with it running. If so, you need a rebuild kit for it.
Thanks very much for the feedback.

Next time I ride it for awhile I will check the temps and see how it goes.

3/4 seems unreasonable though, never seen any vehicle, including my last bike go over 1/2 on the gauge.

With the drain tray under the petcock wet with fuel, it has to be that leaking....

Although I can not see it leaking, I also have not poked around on it really, yet.

Thanks,
NOVAwing

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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by NOVAwing » Mon Jun 04, 2018 4:15 pm

SG_Jay wrote:
Sun Jun 03, 2018 10:54 pm
The front brake locking up on you happened to me some years ago on a virago I had. After a few miles the caliper would start to squeeze the rotor. If I stopped and cracked the bleeder it would shoot fluid out and free up. I chased the issue for a while and it ended up being a plugged return hole in the bottom of the master cylinder. I ran a guitar string through it to clean it out and it worked great after that. As the fluid heats up it needs somewhere to go. If the return is plugged, it pushes out on the pistons and your pads grab the rotor.

It was a really close call the first time it did it to me, could've been a lot worse. So keep an eye on that and if it keeps doing it, look into the return hole as a possible cause.
Thanks for the info.

I have since drained, flushed with brake clean, and filled and bled with dot4 brake fluid.

Just need to test ride now.

Still might need to remove and clean and reinstall caliper. Hopefully not.

Now if I could just get my rear brake pedal to hold pressure and work the dam brakes!

Still so frustrated with this rear brake system...……… now up to 4 large bottles of brake fluid used between the clutch and brakes.

NOVAwing

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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by NOVAwing » Mon Jun 04, 2018 4:17 pm

DenverWinger wrote:
Mon Jun 04, 2018 6:54 am
On a hot day in stop-go traffic it isn't unusual to see temp hit 3/4 scale. I wouldn't worry about it unless the needle moves all the way to the red and you start seeing steam... :mrgreen:
Thanks for the feedback.

That is so unusual for any other vehicle I have ever been in or had.
In the cage world, that indicates a serious problem.

No cooling system should ever go over 1/2 tops on the gauge.

If this is normal, I will learn to live with it, but I am suspicious of this condition...…

Thanks,
NOVAwing

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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by terryt » Mon Jun 04, 2018 4:19 pm

The fuel leak on to drip tray may be coming from the fuel cap check the rubber seal on the bottom of the cap

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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by NOVAwing » Mon Jun 04, 2018 4:22 pm

terryt wrote:
Mon Jun 04, 2018 4:19 pm
The fuel leak on to drip tray may be coming from the fuel cap check the rubber seal on the bottom of the cap
Indeed, good advice.

That I have checked, cap is always dry even under the edges. Also its wetter up near the petcock.

I ordered the petcock kit with my speedo cable and Kurykyn grips today from Cyclemax, they are awesome!

Spun cable with drill, no movement on the gauge. Must be the cable, hub assembly had lube when I changed tire, and has a lot more now, and seems to work and not free spin unless tires is moving.

Thanks,
NOVAwing

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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by NOVAwing » Mon Jun 04, 2018 8:52 pm

New update:

Flushed the rear brake and the front left again after work.

Maybe 5% brake pressure is all I got out of it.

SO FRUSTRATED!

Looks like i will be ordering a master cylinder rebuild kit. Yay.....

So dejected. Getting tired of working on this thing in my parking space lol.

Did another test ride around the neighborhood tonight.

New problem:

Front right brake keeps binding once hot!

I guess when I drained it and blew a 1/4 can of brake clean into the master cylinder I didn't get the return hole clear.

So I will buy yet another can of brake clean. This is 4 lol. Then drain, blow clean, refill and bleed the front right brake again.

Any other reason the brake would bind once hot?

Thanks,
NOVAwing

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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by SG_Jay » Mon Jun 04, 2018 9:28 pm

Not that I know of. When I had that problem, I did everything I could think of. Cleaned and blew the master, rebuilt the calipers, flushed and bled. Nothing worked until I actually ran something through the return hole. It's a tiny hole, a guitar string worked great. I don't remember which one but either .012 or .016 a B or G on an electric set. Anyway, good luck with getting the bike dialed in. They are an awesome machine.

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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by WingAdmin » Tue Jun 05, 2018 8:23 am

I know when I flush the brake system on these bikes, I will normally get as much pressure as I can, then pump the brakes a few times and hold the lever/pedal down. While holding it down, I'll tie it in place, with a bungee or something similar. I then leave it overnight like that.

Typically that will bring the brake performance up significantly. There have been several opinions as to why this works, but my guess is that some of the air bubbles are too large to migrate up through the small spaces in the system. By putting the brake system under pressure and leaving it this way, the bubbles are compressed, making them small enough to migrate up to the reservoir overnight.

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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by NOVAwing » Tue Jun 05, 2018 10:49 am

SG_Jay wrote:
Mon Jun 04, 2018 9:28 pm
Not that I know of. When I had that problem, I did everything I could think of. Cleaned and blew the master, rebuilt the calipers, flushed and bled. Nothing worked until I actually ran something through the return hole. It's a tiny hole, a guitar string worked great. I don't remember which one but either .012 or .016 a B or G on an electric set. Anyway, good luck with getting the bike dialed in. They are an awesome machine.
Thank you for the advice.

I will be doing this the next attempt at flushing sometime this week I guess.
Hopefully this works.

Don't know what else it could be.

Thanks,
NOVAwing

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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by NOVAwing » Tue Jun 05, 2018 10:53 am

WingAdmin wrote:
Tue Jun 05, 2018 8:23 am
I know when I flush the brake system on these bikes, I will normally get as much pressure as I can, then pump the brakes a few times and hold the lever/pedal down. While holding it down, I'll tie it in place, with a bungee or something similar. I then leave it overnight like that.

Typically that will bring the brake performance up significantly. There have been several opinions as to why this works, but my guess is that some of the air bubbles are too large to migrate up through the small spaces in the system. By putting the brake system under pressure and leaving it this way, the bubbles are compressed, making them small enough to migrate up to the reservoir overnight.
Thank you WingAdmin,

I will go ahead and try this tonight or tomorrow morning.
I get almost no pressure from my pedal as is.
I have bled until no air bubbles come out.

Do I leave the cap off the master cylinder for this procedure?
Won't that let a bunch of moisture into the fluid?

If this doesn't work, would you recommend I move on to rebuilding the master cylinder?

I need this issue resolved once and for all so I can ride.
Beautiful days are wasting lol.

Thanks,
NOVAwing

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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by WingAdmin » Tue Jun 05, 2018 1:29 pm

NOVAwing wrote:
Tue Jun 05, 2018 10:53 am
Thank you WingAdmin,

I will go ahead and try this tonight or tomorrow morning.
I get almost no pressure from my pedal as is.
I have bled until no air bubbles come out.

Do I leave the cap off the master cylinder for this procedure?
Won't that let a bunch of moisture into the fluid?

If this doesn't work, would you recommend I move on to rebuilding the master cylinder?

I need this issue resolved once and for all so I can ride.
Beautiful days are wasting lol.

Thanks,
NOVAwing
No, the cap stays on the reservoir, otherwise, as you state, moisture will enter the system.

My rear master cylinder needs rebuilding as well...I've just been putting it off, because I know what a nightmare it is to get to. :) I have some stainless brake lines for my rear brake master cylinder waiting to go on for the same reason.

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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by NOVAwing » Wed Jun 06, 2018 7:41 pm

Minor update:

Aquired a tiny guitar string to poke the return on the front brake master cylinder. Have not done it yet.

Anything special to know about doing this, any risk to internal parts if I push it to hard, how far should it go in?

Pumped the rear brake like 20 times lastnight then wedged a pencil between it and the engine to hold it down. So all lastnight and all day today while at work....

Just checked it, no pedal presure....

So, I ordered the rear master cylinder rebuild kit /sigh

Im so excited :x

The good news is my grips, speedo cable, and petcock rebuild will be here tomorrow.

Followed Friday by my new used backrest! Courtesy of Wingconsin. Hes a great guy!

Thanks,
NOVAwing



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