Questions about our clutch, is mine working right?

[NOVAwing]

Hi gang,

Hope everyone is well and enjoying the riding season!

So about our clutch.....

Hope is it supposed to work?

When I squeeze it, and let it out, it starts to grab about 3/4 of the way out and does not fully engage until about 90% released.

Is that normal operation or does mine need service?

If it needs service, what does it need, replacement, or bleeding, or what?

Thanks for your help as always!

NOVAwing

[CrystalPistol]

It reads as if it's normal. Is it consistant and does it feel same after holding in for a minute or two?

I know you are just guess-timating travel, etc. If in doubt, it's fairly easy to bleed using squeeze & hold method with one left hand, and opening / shutting bleeder with right. Check level ever so often and be slow and careful & deliberate with squeezes.

[RockportDave]

If it just started acting different, you need to be sure the slave cylinder is not leaking. If it’s leaking, it goes into the engine and will contaminate your oil and if the engine is run too long, it will get to the bearings which is not good.
Dave

[NOVAwing]

It reads as if it's normal. Is it consistant and does it feel same after holding in for a minute or two?

I know you are just guess-timating travel, etc. If in doubt, it's fairly easy to bleed using squeeze & hold method with one left hand, and opening / shutting bleeder with right. Check level ever so often and be slow and careful & deliberate with squeezes.

Its been this way since i first successfully flushed it after it sat for 4 years, no change in a few hundred miles ive put on it. It does not noticbly leak down when holding it.

I could try bleeding it again, i just dread the thought of more bleeding after the ordeal i went through to get pressure in this clutch and the rear brakes i rebuilt lol.

All great info thanks very much, sounds like I may be fine.

NOVAwing

[NOVAwing]

If it just started acting different, you need to be sure the slave cylinder is not leaking. If it’s leaking, it goes into the engine and will contaminate your oil and if the engine is run too long, it will get to the bearings which is not good.
Dave

Thanks Rockport,

It has not changed behavior since I first fixed it.

Great info, did not know about the leaking dangers.

I should rebuild it top and bottom like I did the rear master. Next year project.

NOVAwing

[RockportDave]

I bought a vacuum pump at Harbor Freight for $20 and it works good for bleeding clutch and brakes. When I got my bike the PO just put brakes on it and the foot pedal had too much travel. Used the vacuum pump on it and it’s solid and high. Flushed both brake systems and the clutch in an afternoon.
Dave

[tamathumper]

Check the "Clutch Lever Adjustment" section of the Owner's Manual also, to ensure you have the clutch lever travel set the way you want. It's on page 139 in my copy.

[virgilmobile]

When I squeeze it, and let it out, it starts to grab about 3/4 of the way out and does not fully engage until about 90% released.

Ya know...this sounds a bit far..
My88 is quite different.
Mine starts to grab a bit less than half way and fully engaged at 3/4...
Your pressure return port on the clutch master cylinder may be plugged...
Especially noticible if the clutch lever is very firm when it's first moved from the rest position.

[NOVAwing]

I bought a vacuum pump at Harbor Freight for $20 and it works good for bleeding clutch and brakes. When I got my bike the PO just put brakes on it and the foot pedal had too much travel. Used the vacuum pump on it and it’s solid and high. Flushed both brake systems and the clutch in an afternoon.
Dave
16E69838-6F20-4694-9BAD-988A744B8E99.png

I have the mityvac from HF.

I just went through so much getting the systems working initially I don't want to do anymore lol.

It seems fine for now. I will keep an eye on it though.

Thanks.

[NOVAwing]

Check the "Clutch Lever Adjustment" section of the Owner's Manual also, to ensure you have the clutch lever travel set the way you want. It's on page 139 in my copy.

That is interesting thank you.

I will look into this for more details.

Thank you.

[NOVAwing]

When I squeeze it, and let it out, it starts to grab about 3/4 of the way out and does not fully engage until about 90% released.

Ya know...this sounds a bit far..
My88 is quite different.
Mine starts to grab a bit less than half way and fully engaged at 3/4...
Your pressure return port on the clutch master cylinder may be plugged...
Especially noticible if the clutch lever is very firm when it's first moved from the rest position.

Yea, I thought it was a bit far also, but its holding fine so...…maybe I'm just not used to a Wing's idiosyncrasies.

I cleaned the crap out of the clutch system, blew cleaner through the system, bled like 4 liters of brake fluid through it lol. I doubt its plugged again. The lever is not firm or odd at any time.

Thanks for the idea's.

[tamathumper]

Apologies, I blanked earlier on your model - if you're talking about the 1500, I'm not familiar with that model or with the clutch lever adjustment method. I was referring to the GL1800.

[virgilmobile]

Because there's no "adjustments" for the clutch lever...if the operation seems off..do check the clutch lever pivot pin.That little part that pushes the master cylinder piston in...Seems I recall that's it's a common wear part.Either the pin outer shell is worn,the lever is worn or the contact divot is worn..Any or all will effectively dislocate the engauge/disengage position of the lever.
This could explain that it still works consistently but just out of position ..
Or the bike has been dumped and the lever is bent.

[Stew]

I’ve always thought the clutch engagement point was out a bit further than I would’ve expected on mine too. I removed the pivot pin and lubed it and it was fine, the clutch has always worked fine and held solid. I’m just chalking it up to that’s how it is and not worrying about it.

[NOVAwing]

Because there's no "adjustments" for the clutch lever...if the operation seems off..do check the clutch lever pivot pin.That little part that pushes the master cylinder piston in...Seems I recall that's it's a common wear part.Either the pin outer shell is worn,the lever is worn or the contact divot is worn..Any or all will effectively dislocate the engauge/disengage position of the lever.
This could explain that it still works consistently but just out of position ..
Or the bike has been dumped and the lever is bent.

Thanks Virgil,

This is one of the first parts I replaced when I started working on the bike.

That brass clutch bushing. The clutch holds and does not seem to leak down. The operation of if has not changed since I initially got it working.

Just seemed to engage later then I would have thought is all.

Seems im fine.

Thanks!

[SlowTyper]

I am not familiar with the 1500 -- mine is 1200. But I have some general comments.

Based on your symptoms, I doubt that your brake line needs to be bled. Air in the line makes it spongy, and causes the clutch to engage right away or even drag somewhat despite the lever being tight against the handlebar.

I would look for three things in the operation of a clutch: 1) If it is adjusted correctly, there should be at least some moment of the clutch mechanism before you feel the clutch start to disengage. Related to this, the clutch should not slip when the engine is at full throttle. And 2) The clutch should be fully disengaged before the lever reaches the handlebar. If it doesn't, there may be air in the line or the thing is so far out of adjustment that all the action takes place near the handlebar. And 3) When slipping the clutch, there should be a small change in slippage/drag if the lever is moved ever so slightly. If not, the line is probably plugged with old gelled brake fluid that does not want to travel up & down the clutch hose.