Fork Oil Change


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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okie2ee
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Fork Oil Change

Post by okie2ee »



I read thru the fork oil change procedure and I don't have the schrader valves on my forks. Does the oil change procedure still apply as shown or do I have to do something different? I have a 1992 Interstate, thanks.



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Rednaxs60
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Re: Fork Oil Change

Post by Rednaxs60 »

My '95 1500 SE CDN Edition does not have the air valves either. Same procedure as per. Cheers
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okie2ee
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Re: Fork Oil Change

Post by okie2ee »

I was wondering about the part where you put the copper tubing down thru the hole in the top cap and remove fluid until you have the right level in the fork. With the top cap removed, I assume the height will be a little different............or not to worry..............thanks

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Re: Fork Oil Change

Post by Rednaxs60 »

Interstate needs:

right fork: 377 cc
left fork: 361 cc

distance from top of fork fork fully extended without spring installed: 194 mm

Good luck. Cheers
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest

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okie2ee
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Re: Fork Oil Change

Post by okie2ee »

Still not sure on removing the cap on the top of the fork, is this an easy procedure..............is the spring under pressure under the cap?

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Re: Fork Oil Change

Post by MikeB »

Yes, the spring is under pressure and if you remove both caps without supporting the bike from underneath the bike will fall on its nose.
MikeB
1998 - GL1500 w/184,500 miles ~ 2017 - GL1800 w/13000 miles
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Rednaxs60
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Re: Fork Oil Change

Post by Rednaxs60 »

The fork cap is under pressure from the fork spring. If the fork springs are progressive in the parts bike, there will be pressure but the preload is only about 1 inch and it can be controlled easily. If the fork springs are OEM, my understanding is the caps will be under greater pressure and more diligence will be required. There are a lot of DIY fork cap removal tools on this site to consider, or get the OEM tool. If you are going to stay with riding these older GWs, the OEM fork tool will not be a waste. Considering a fork oil change every 2-3 years (new oil is always good) should be in order, the OEM fork tool will pay for itself just in a safety aspect.

Good luck. Cheers
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest

kane67
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Re: Fork Oil Change

Post by kane67 »

When I refurbished completely my OEM front forks 2 years ago, I made diy removal tool, drilled holes to caps and made threads and placed screws with seals. Now it is super super easy to change fork oil ;)

Maybe I should move to Progressives, at the moment I don’t know what I’m missing :D

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Re: Fork Oil Change

Post by okie2ee »

No one has mentioned it yet but it appears that I will have to remove the forks from the bike in order to change the oil in the forks............is that correct? No wonder the oil doesn't get changed..............if fork removal and tool fabrication is required, I will definitely be drilling holes in the fork caps or can I just purchase the caps with the holes already in them...........thanks

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Re: Fork Oil Change

Post by Bluewaterhooker0 »

You can purchase all the pieces from Partzilla for around $70, if I remember right. I looked it up for someone. You can look it up yourself.

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Re: Fork Oil Change

Post by Rednaxs60 »

okie2ee wrote:
Sun Sep 23, 2018 3:56 pm
No one has mentioned it yet but it appears that I will have to remove the forks from the bike in order to change the oil in the forks............is that correct? No wonder the oil doesn't get changed..............if fork removal and tool fabrication is required, I will definitely be drilling holes in the fork caps or can I just purchase the caps with the holes already in them...........thanks
Easier to remove the front forks, and yes to rebuild removal is needed. Info in OEM service manual is spot on. Parts are not that expensive in the US, when done be good for another 100,000 miles. If you put in valves it will help in servicing, but the amount of oil and the distance reading from the top of the fork tube is important as the amount of oil in the forks is important and you would have to ensure your measuring wire is accurate. You might be able to find some fork caps from a parts bike. The front forks will work better after a good overhaul.
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest

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Re: Fork Oil Change

Post by WingAdmin »

Rednaxs60 wrote:
Sun Sep 23, 2018 1:51 pm
The fork cap is under pressure from the fork spring. If the fork springs are progressive in the parts bike, there will be pressure but the preload is only about 1 inch and it can be controlled easily. If the fork springs are OEM, my understanding is the caps will be under greater pressure and more diligence will be required. There are a lot of DIY fork cap removal tools on this site to consider, or get the OEM tool. If you are going to stay with riding these older GWs, the OEM fork tool will not be a waste. Considering a fork oil change every 2-3 years (new oil is always good) should be in order, the OEM fork tool will pay for itself just in a safety aspect.

Good luck. Cheers
I have progressive springs in mine, and those things were under incredible pressure. I used the Honda tool to remove and install them:

Image

Image

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Rednaxs60
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Re: Fork Oil Change

Post by Rednaxs60 »

Bought the Honda tool as well - the easier maintenance is made to be, the more likely a person is to do it. Works a treat. Installed the Progressive springs and the spring(s) only stick out the top about 1 1/2 inch. Cheers
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest

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okie2ee
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Re: Fork Oil Change

Post by okie2ee »

I have seen articles on progressive springs...............what is the recommended Progressive spring for my model taking into account it is a trike.........thanks

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Re: Fork Oil Change

Post by curtm »

If you dont have schrader valves, getting the spring compressed and installing the cap is not as easy as it sounds, i ended up removing the forks to building a compressor to reinstall the nut, The nuts are Aluminum and strip easy
Curt
i wrote a post a few months ago on this adventure



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