Rear air shock bolt removal


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Sidecarjohn
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Rear air shock bolt removal

Post by Sidecarjohn » Tue Oct 16, 2018 11:44 am



Acquired SE1500 and currently working through the rear end mechanicals. UK quality road dirt clearly taken its toll, but gradually dealing with cleaning and tidying. Possibly predictable, but there had to be a snag.
Whilst the wheel is out ready for a new tyre, dealing with the shocks. The lower bolt will not shift despite application of penetration oil, and air released from the shock. Efforts not helped by the 12mm bolt, which has resulted in founding the head.Oops !
Any thoughts, suggestion, advice, etc. Reprimands expected, although probably won't hit the heights already expressed by my wife.



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GlimWas
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Re: Rear air shock bolt removal

Post by GlimWas » Tue Oct 16, 2018 11:54 am

By now you realise you have to use proper tools :twisted:

But for the problem; i would grind two flat sides on the bolt and try it with a pipe wrench, presuming you used the word 'rounding' the bolt in your opening post.......
Sometimes it's hellish, working on a Goldwing...............
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Erdeniz Umman
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Re: Rear air shock bolt removal

Post by Erdeniz Umman » Tue Oct 16, 2018 12:08 pm

I had broken that bolt while fastening, and had hard time to remove the piece inside.

It is a specially designed bolt #5 in the picture below and easy to break the threaded part because that part is smaller in diameter. So be careful while working on it.

Probably the penetrating oil did not reach the threaded part behind. Try to squirt it from the hole behind on the final drive.
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WingAdmin
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Re: Rear air shock bolt removal

Post by WingAdmin » Tue Oct 16, 2018 11:11 pm

What others said, about grinding it to get purchase on the head, and then perhaps some heat (not too much to damage paint on frame or crystallize metal).

My universal go-to is an impact wrench for stuck fasteners, it tends to free things with a minimum of damage.

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Erdeniz Umman
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Re: Rear air shock bolt removal

Post by Erdeniz Umman » Wed Oct 17, 2018 1:51 am

I am not sure heat will be good there, because the lower bolt is installed onto the final drive case, not frame.

Sidecarjohn
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Re: Rear air shock bolt removal

Post by Sidecarjohn » Wed Oct 17, 2018 2:30 am

Appreciate responses so far, all welcome.
Have used "proper" tools, at least by my reckoning. Guess it's all in the detail. Maybe what has to be considered is now the total coverage of the rear end with plastic influences the potential for serious influx of dirt and corrosion. I reside in the UK, enough said.
Mention of using heat poses the comparison between heat and the alternative of freezing. Any thoughts ?
PLus, heat seems a dodgy option considering rubber, plastic and alloy are close.

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Erdeniz Umman
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Re: Rear air shock bolt removal

Post by Erdeniz Umman » Wed Oct 17, 2018 5:43 am

Tapping with a hammer may help loosening the bolt. As stated before if you have an impact driver it will help a lot.

Sidecarjohn
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Re: Rear air shock bolt removal

Post by Sidecarjohn » Wed Oct 17, 2018 6:02 am

Thanks for reminder about impact driver. A pity I didn't go that route. However, the issue is that the bolt now has a rounded head. Grinding flats and a wrench looks the best bet.
I still feel that Honda choosing a 12 mm head is a puzzle. Can't believe it was to save weight ! :lol:

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Re: Rear air shock bolt removal

Post by oldmopars » Wed Oct 17, 2018 10:03 am

I know that you are in the UK and that you do not have Lowe's or Sears, but you do have other shops that should carry a set of bolt extraction sockets like these:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-6-Pa ... mAQAvD_BwE

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Re: Rear air shock bolt removal

Post by MikeB » Wed Oct 17, 2018 12:33 pm

John, the bolt head size is more than likely to prevent someone from twisting off the threaded part of the bolt by applying too much torque.
It is only 8mm.
Look at the picture. Item #10. Make sure you are applying penetrating oil to the threaded end of the bolt as well as the smooth portion.
A replacement would be part number 90159-MG9-000. Hopefully you have one or can order it soon. You are going to need one.


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Sidecarjohn
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Re: Rear air shock bolt removal

Post by Sidecarjohn » Wed Oct 17, 2018 4:30 pm

Replacement bolt ordered and expected soon. Pricey.
Sad to report, purchased set of extraction sockets for damaged bolt heads, but no joy. Uncertain if set obtained poor quality, although assured that it would work. Never mind, will solve.

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MikeB
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Re: Rear air shock bolt removal

Post by MikeB » Wed Oct 17, 2018 5:41 pm

You said that the wheel is out and waiting for a new tire. That is good. It allows for easier access to the threaded end of the bolt.

I would imagine that the bolt is rusted in place in the lower shock ear bushing as well as rusted on the threaded end.

Repeated blows on the shock end where the bolt goes through the shock ear should assist in loosening the grip the rust has on the bolt.
And, applying heat to the threaded end of the bolt should help with loosening the hold the rust has there. A combination of these procedures along with a firm grip and CCW rotation on the bolt with a quality vice grip tool should eventually break the bolt loose. IF that does not work and the bolt breaks off, you will have to drill it out. Hopefully you will not get to that point but it is possible to drill it out and remove the threaded stud and then clean the threads up for a replacement bolt.

All I can say is I hope you have good luck. Let us know how it goes.
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Sidecarjohn
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Re: Rear air shock bolt removal

Post by Sidecarjohn » Sun Oct 21, 2018 6:48 am

Tried a number of suggested solutions, but no joy. Much of the issue is working inches off the floor, plus those things which simply get in the way. So, opted to remove the bevel drive and, of course the shaft. Dealing with the problem will be better in a friend's workshop. He has the tools and machinery.
Thinking ahead, and being positive, any advice on replacing the shaft and bevel very much appreciated.

By the way, when the new tyre was fitted, we identified the need for new wheel bearings. Already ordered.

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Re: Rear air shock bolt removal

Post by bellboy40 » Sun Oct 21, 2018 3:12 pm

Sidecarjohn wrote:
Sun Oct 21, 2018 6:48 am
Tried a number of suggested solutions, but no joy. Much of the issue is working inches off the floor, plus those things which simply get in the way. So, opted to remove the bevel drive and, of course the shaft. Dealing with the problem will be better in a friend's workshop. He has the tools and machinery.
Thinking ahead, and being positive, any advice on replacing the shaft and bevel very much appreciated.

By the way, when the new tyre was fitted, we identified the need for new wheel bearings. Already ordered.
When I took my final drive out to lube the splines, I removed the lower shock bolts on both sides. This allows the swingarm to move up and down freely. When reinstalling the final drive, I raised up the swingarm and put a short piece of wood (I used a 1x4) across the saddlebag frame and under the swingarm to hold it up in place. This gets it in line with the u-joint and, when I pushed the final drive in toward the u-joint, I turned the splines back and forth slightly on the drive and it slipped right in place. Took maybe 5 seconds to go in. I was surprised it went in so easily. My buddy who was there helping me tried it on his the next time he lubed his splines and had the exact same results.

Sidecarjohn
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Re: Rear air shock bolt removal

Post by Sidecarjohn » Wed Oct 24, 2018 10:05 am

Progress. Nut welded to damaged end of bolt and heat applied. Ring spanner and additional leverage did the job. Interesting to note that the 8 mm threaded end of the special bolt shows no sign of seizure, unlike the larger diameter plain section. Brute force and a slight touch of ignorance saved the day.

For the record, the Wing is destined to have a sidecar attached, and the air shock is being discarded. As it is, and despite the brutality employed, i.e. heat etc, the air shock appears unaffected.

Will report back on progress in due course.

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MikeB
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Re: Rear air shock bolt removal

Post by MikeB » Wed Oct 24, 2018 12:00 pm

Glad to hear of your success. Thanks for the update.
Sidecarjohn wrote:
Wed Oct 24, 2018 10:05 am
... the 8 mm threaded end of the special bolt shows no sign of seizure, unlike the larger diameter plain section.
I suspected that to be the case. That large area of untreated steel in the shock bushing is susceptible to corrosion more so than the threaded end.
Anytime a bolt of this type is installed, there needs to be some grease or even Anti-Sieze applied to the area that goes into the shock bushing.
Since there is very little rotational motion of the shock on the bolt, there is nothing to prevent corrosion from building and taking hold.


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