Fully Synthetic Oil???

[rlsapp]

When changing the oil on my 97 Aspencade 1500, I have been using Mobile 1 fully synthetic oil. Now that the price of oil have increased, (with everything else) the oil changing has gotten expensive, could I quit using the fully synthetic oil without hurting the engine??? I have used fully synthetic oil for the last 10,000 mls. with 2 oil changes.

[dingdong]

Not going to hurt anything by switching to dino oil.

[thrasherg]

Not going to hurt anything by switching to dino oil.

I agree 100%, use a good dyno oil, again make sure it is for motorcycles (No friction modifiers) otherwise you might have clutch slip issues later on.

Gary

[Viking]

Yeah. You are okay switching back. The only things that synthetic do basically, is keep the engine cleaner, due to higher detergents in the formulation, and give better protection to moving touching metal parts, thereby reducing wear. Only really high mileage, dirty, engines cannot benefit from synthetics, as the dirt is sometimes all that is holding the oil inside the engine. Switching back is never a problem.

[cbx4evr]

I have been using Mobile 1 fully synthetic oil. Now that the price of oil have increased, (with everything else) the oil changing has gotten expensive

What is the price of oil there?? I was in the USA last summer and nearly choked on how cheap oil was. I live 20 minutes from a huge oil refinery and we are paying $40+ for a 4 litre jug of Mobil 1.

I use Shell Rotella T in all my bikes, lawnmowers, snowblowers etc.

[rlsapp]

oil prices range between $4-10, depending on the additives in the oil, (Claxton, GA. location). I do like to use the Mobile One fully synthetic, but it is now over $8 for a U.S. quart, and CBX4evr, love the profile pic...and THKS to all for the info on changing the oil.

[razenj]

sythetic oil lasts longer,mileage wise. so regular oil is not really cheaper. you can change reg oil every 3,000 or synthetic every 7500....ray

[MikeB]

Of course, if you were to follow the Honda GL1500 Owners Manual to the letter, you would only need to change engine oil every 8000 miles.

[razenj]

newest mobil one synthetic is good for 10,000 miles, just find a filter that good is the hard part

[cbx4evr]

Of course, if you were to follow the Honda GL1500 Owners Manual to the letter, you would only need to change engine oil every 8000 miles.

I don't think that is unrealistic.

I would venture to say that most of us were brought up in a time of leaded fuels and old engine technology. We were told to change the oil in our vehicles every 2000 miles.

Old habits die hard. Lead has been removed from fuels and the engine technology of today has been greatly improved along with oil technology. In todays engines the need to change oil as frequently as we used to just isn't there. Engines are so much more refined and have so many higher tolerences that the wear actually put on oil by the engine is much much less than it used to be. We are wasting the resource to some degree. I'm probably like most changing more often than I need too. The only way to really tell is to have an analysis done. My son has a vehicle (Honda) which has an oil life monitoring system. Getting 8,000 - 10,000 mile on the oil is easily achieved.

[Viking]

I don't think that is unrealistic.

The only way to really tell is to have an analysis done. My son has a vehicle (Honda) which has an oil life monitoring system. Getting 8,000 - 10,000 mile on the oil is easily achieved.

This is absolutely correct. I have an Amsoil dealer license (so I can purchase at wholesale prices), and use it in all my vehicles, as soon as the vehicle is broken in, which also takes less time than it used to. I let a vehicle go between 5 and 6K miles, and then switch. Most vehicle manufacturers are advocating more extended drain intervals, to the point of 8 to 10 K as mentioned above. What is not normally known is that there are only two synthetic oils that I am aware of that recommend more extended drain intervals, and those are Amsoil and RedLine. Imperial Oil's Mobile 1 is not one of the extended drain oils. They wish you to change as often as you would with dino oil. I do not know if they know something about their product that the rest of us don't, or if they just don't wish to deprive themselves of sales, but I would think any synthetic should be elegible for longer periods between drains, to the point of one year, if you store your bike, or two years if you drive year round, and 25,000 miles, whichever come first. One of the largest detriments to oil is storage in a facility that changes temperature over the storage period, as this encourages the development of condensation in the oil compartment, and then when the vehicle is started, it mixes with the oil and deposits on metal parts. If the vehicle is not run long enough to heat the oil and facilitate evaporation of the moisture, this results in the formation of rust. So, if you, like me, wish to use synthetics, be aware that they do have to be heated occasionally in the winter in order to remain viable. This means you must start and thouroughly warm up the vehicle. As to rasenj's question on oil filters - I do know that Amsoil has what is known as an Absolute Efficiency oil filter that will do the job in extended drain situations, but I do not know which other manufacturers of oil filters can claim the same. As I use the Amsoil filters, it does not really concern me, but most filters are NOT suitable for long interval use. Neither the oil, nor the filter are "inexpensive". The oil is indeed running around $40 a gallon, and the filters are around $17 each. That is $57 plus tax and shipping per oil change. For me, the minimal wear on the engine is worth it at twice the price each year.

[rlsapp]

Thks. guys for the info on the oil. I haven't heard of the others brands that you mentioned, (shows how much I know), but the test results I would love to see. I have used Mobile One fully synthenic oil for 10 years or longer, and I love the way it runs in the engines, (truck and bike). The filter in the bike, I usually use the Honda filter ($15), the truck is Purolator Gold filter ($12). And where can I find these brands? Shell Rotella T? Amsoil and RedLine?

[MikeB]

Shell Rotella T, which is now called Shell Rotella T6, can be found in Wal Mart. The Amsoil is pretty much by individual private dealer only and that is why I have not used it. The Redline is a new one on me. I had used the Mobil 1 for several years and then went to Rotella T synthetic when I noticed that it was less expensive. There are many synthetics on the market and I have pretty much just stayed with the Shell Rotella for the last six yeas or so.

[Viking]

As Mike mentioned, Amsoil is, in the US, mostly private dealer sales, but there are a few businesses that carry it also. In Canada, likewise private dealer and Canadian Tire also has it, because a dealer is supplying them. Redline is pretty much also private dealer, and specialty auto parts and accessories stores. Purolator's Pure One line of filters are excellent products, and are fully compatible with Synthetic oils, but are almost as difficult to find as the Amsoil filters. Google is your friend here, and if looking for Amsoil or Redline dealers, it will definitely help if one googles both the oil name and the area you live in. Shell Rotella is of course available from Shell Bulk dealers, and some certain formulations from Shell fuel stations, but not all. Rotella is also available at local airports who have a shell refueling franchise. As mentioned, Walmart also carries some, like the Rotella for diesels. Amsoil and Redline are probably the only companies that formulate motorcycle specific oils, like the ones found at Motorcycle dealerships. Pretty much every power sports company also has a line of lubricants packaged in their name, but they do not actually make the oils themselves of course. They simply contract with oil packagers to bottle with their own specifications. Most are not synthetic, but some are. Harley Davidson has a synthetic packaged for them, but I do not know if Honda does or not. Most snowmobile and four wheeler makers also have name brand oil.

[MikeB]

Your local O'Reilly Auto Parts store on North Duval Street in Claxton caries Shell Rotella T6. The price shown on line is for 5W-40 Rotella T6 is $24.99 a gallon or $6.49 quart. for 5W40. they also carry 5W-40 Mobil 1 @ $28.99 a gallon or $7.99 qt. I got this info from a Google Search for O'Reilly Auto Parts in Claxton.

[rlsapp]

way to use Google Mike...good job...I will change the oil and give Shell Rotella T6 a try.

[linbegone]

I worked in the trucking industry for a number of years and the last place i worked for was Knight Transportation out of Phoenix, Az. They had a fleet of about 2500 trucks that used to get their oil changed every 20k miles. That meant about once a month. Knight took to testing synthetics in several of their fleet trucks along with Eaton transmissions an Cat beta motors we were kind of an industry guinea pig.

Long story short, Knight went from doing 20k miles oil changes to extending up and over 100k between oil changes, with testing of its viscosity it remained fully on patrol when it came to the lube system.

I'm fully sold on using synthetic after initial break in period.

[robb]

I have also been an Amsoil Dealer and use it in my bikes. Frequently test oil and after so many analysis run synthetic for 20k intervals with filter change at 5k. No engine related incidents and 3-5mpg increase. Two Chrysler Town & Country mini vans each at 300k +, Ford Explorer with 260k using same intervals. My 91 Ford 7.3 diesel has an Amsoil bypass system and has only seen 2 oil changes since new, only filters and top off. At 20k I have yet to see an analysis that did not say OK for continued use, even the 120K check for truck was good to go . Used oil from vans and bikes is used in tractor , lawn equipment, daughters Honda Civic (225k) and father-in-laws 84 Trooper (400k +). Florist delivery has generated a lot of miles on a hand full of vehicles.

I purchased a 2013 Toyota Prius that runs full synthetic 10k miles for oil and filter. Five months and 19k, but Amsoil will go in when the 36k warranty expires. Toyota covers service to 36k for free so why knock it.

[Fiberthree]

I have also been an Amsoil Dealer and use it in my bikes. Frequently test oil and after so many analysis run synthetic for 20k intervals with filter change at 5k. No engine related incidents and 3-5mpg increase.

I have used 100% synthetic since the first oil change on my '99, including Amsoil. I have also kept a record of all maintenance and MPG data on a spreadsheet so I can back-up my findings. I change my oil every 5K which is when I noticed a change in the color of the oil. I have found that I get an average if 1.5 MPG more than Amsoil when I use Valvoline 10W30 full synthetic. This is a combination of actual street and freeway driving. The only claim I've heard against full synthetic is that it doesn't cling to the metal the way mineral oil does and could possibly lead to dry start up if your engine is not run regularly. (As in being stored for the winter or other instances) Since my Wing rarely sits idle I'll continue to run the synthetic oil.

[rlsapp]

I was under the impression that fully synthetic oil kept parts coated the parts to help prevent dry starts

[robb]

10w30 vs 10w40, I'd say 1.5 mpg increase is acceptable. Synthetic does coat and protect internal parts better.

Few years ago was in process of changing oil when I was called away for work problem. Slid oil under truck so it was out of the way. Short story, I had another stroke. After a few months got renewal for tags so decided to take bike for inspection. Rode bike 22 miles to shop where I was notified of no oil or filter. They did inspection and it was ridden back home where oil and filter were installed. Twenty thousand later and it still runs as strong as ever. I'm sold on Amsoil

Tires are run at 40-42psi and Tulsa tall shield is up all the way. Last big trip was 1300 miles and average was 49mpg. Back roads are most preferred but trip to West Virginia 2up was good for 44mpg. No changes coming my way.

[Bluewaterhooker0]

From all that I have been reading until now, it was my understanding that Mobil 1 (for automobiles) was not a good choice for Goldwing. For that matter, the Rotella T6 was in the same category. I thought they all had friction modifiers that were bad for the clutch. I recently bought some Mobil 1 made for motorcycle use. Is that what you folks are referring to ? That's the only full synthetic oil I could find with the JASO-MA listing. Would be just as happy to use the Rotella T6 if it is usable. I used Rotella T dino oil last time, based on various forum advise. I'm a huge believer in synthetic in my automobiles.

[Viking]

I recently bought some Mobil 1 made for motorcycle use. Is that what you folks are referring to ? That's the only full synthetic oil I could find with the JASO-MA listing. Would be just as happy to use the Rotella T6 if it is usable. I used Rotella T dino oil last time, based on various forum advise. I'm a huge believer in synthetic in my automobiles.

The service sheet in the link shows that the 5W40 at least is JASO DH2 and MA certified, so you can use that one for sure.

http://s05.static-shell.com/content/dam ... lla-t6.pdf

[amsoilguy]

From all that I have been reading until now, it was my understanding that Mobil 1 (for automobiles) was not a good choice for Goldwing. For that matter, the Rotella T6 was in the same category. I thought they all had friction modifiers that were bad for the clutch. I recently bought some Mobil 1 made for motorcycle use. Is that what you folks are referring to ? That's the only full synthetic oil I could find with the JASO-MA listing. Would be just as happy to use the Rotella T6 if it is usable. I used Rotella T dino oil last time, based on various forum advise. I'm a huge believer in synthetic in my automobiles.

This is another option and you can order it direct:
API SG, SL/CF, CG-4; JASO MA/MA2; ISO-L-EMA2; API GL-1
AMSOIL 10W-40 Motorcycle

[GWesslau]

Have been using Castrol 4-T for my bikes. Expensive, roughly 70 $/ gallon, but workes perfect!!