Rear brake dragging


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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Lanman61
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2010 3:30 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500SE Goldwing

Rear brake dragging

Post by Lanman61 »



My 2000 Wing sat for several months due to health issues. When getting it back on the road, I started having a problem after about a week or so with the rear brake dragging. Not enough to stop the brake but definitely enough to know it was happening. I took it to the Honda dealer and after several days they have determined that I need a new rear brake caliper, new brake hoses and a new rear master cylinder. I am not able to do the maintenance myself but they want around $1,700 for the repairs. I understand the amount of effort needed to even get to the parts to replace them but this seems excessive. Does anyone know any good m/c mechanics in the Phoenix AZ area? Also, can I do this piecemeal (i.e. master cylinder and hoses, then, if needed, rear caliper? I get that some labor would be repeated and add to the cost but if the master cylinder fixes the problem then MAYBE can save a few bucks. Any help/advice is appreciated.



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Aussie81Interstate
Posts: 1178
Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2014 2:34 am
Location: Penrith Australia
Motorcycle: 2001 GL1500F6C Valkyrie
1982 CX500 Turbo (Historic registration - finally)
1981 GL1100 Interstate (sold)
1988 GL1500 (sold)

Re: Rear brake dragging

Post by Aussie81Interstate »

More than likely you should only need to flush the master cylinder - maybe re-kit it, do the same with the rear brake caliper - new seals, pads - normal maintenance items.

Sounds like Honda are like panelbeaters- just replacing items and not bothering with repairing... that's why it would cost so much.

Find a cheaper alternative and actually find out what the problem may be - it would definitely not be all three needing replacement.

cheers

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Happytrails
Posts: 963
Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2013 6:13 pm
Location: Natrona Hgts, Pennsylvania
Motorcycle: 1991 Goldwing 1500 SE
2018 Ural Gearup

Re: Rear brake dragging

Post by Happytrails »

It is a very labor intensive job to replace the rear master cylinder. Its one of those jobs you hope you only do once ever. :roll: Not saying that price is bad, when you figure labor is maybe $90-100/hr at a dealer?? That dealer sounds a little like "replace everything related to the rear brakes and it will probably fix the issue" thinking :D Generally dealers dont want to touch bikes as old as ours but an independant probably would. Everytime I get my goldwing inspected I take it to an HD dealer near to me (they also work on other brands) and they make no bones about how my bike is so old they might not be able to get parts to fix it if it fails inspection. Its very well maintained and always passes.

I replaced my rear master cylinder and replaced the hoses twice and rebuilt my rear caliper (sounds like they are guessing the worst by saying you need a new one). Those parts are kind of expensive since they are Honda. Rear brake master cylinder still available $165.30 (partzilla), rear caliper says "unavailable" (partzilla) so not sure what they were planning on for that and the various bits of hoses. To be honest you would be way ahead of the game to replace those old honda hoses with a single braided ss line rather than buy the 4-5 different sections of hose that make up the back line like I did. I paid for it twice and had to take all those parts off again to get where the ss hose bolts on. Would have posted up a photo of when I had my bike in pieces replacing these parts but Flicker seems to be down.

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda ... ke-caliper
1991 GL1500 SE Anniversary Edition
Sun Flare Gold Metallic
Vallant Brown Inset

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Happytrails
Posts: 963
Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2013 6:13 pm
Location: Natrona Hgts, Pennsylvania
Motorcycle: 1991 Goldwing 1500 SE
2018 Ural Gearup

Re: Rear brake dragging

Post by Happytrails »

Aussie81Interstate wrote:
Thu May 23, 2019 6:55 pm
More than likely you should only need to flush the master cylinder - maybe re-kit it, do the same with the rear brake caliper - new seals, pads - normal maintenance items.

Sounds like Honda are like panelbeaters- just replacing items and not bothering with repairing... that's why it would cost so much.

Find a cheaper alternative and actually find out what the problem may be - it would definitely not be all three needing replacement.

cheers
He could be right. Flush the fluid and make sure that little return hole isn't blocked would be a good start if you were going to work on it yourself.
1991 GL1500 SE Anniversary Edition
Sun Flare Gold Metallic
Vallant Brown Inset

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Mh434
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Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2014 10:24 pm
Location: Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
Motorcycle: 1997 gl1500 SE
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Re: Rear brake dragging

Post by Mh434 »

Another likely possibility (which doesn't require ANY parts) is that the grease on the slider pins that hold the caliper in place (and let it slide from side to side as required) is dried up, or there's not enough of it. When this happens, the caliper stays over to one side, rather than self-centering like it should, and the pad on one side drags. I had that happen on my GL1100, and it heated up so bad that the brake eventually locked up until it sat long enough for the rotor to cool down.

Those pins HAVE to be well greased if the caliper is going to work.

The idea that you need the entire rear brake's parts replaced says to me that your dealer is trying to get rich off you, and counting on you not learning that most, if not all, of those parts are unnecessary. I HATE seeing people ripped off!!!

If I were you, I'd see if I could connect with one of your other local GL1500 owners who's handy with tools. Most of us would be very happy indeed to help out another 'Wing owner. If you know of anyone in your local GWRRA chapter, they'll definitely put you in touch with a GL1500 "guru" who can help you. It's a very close-knit community.

At the very least, they'll help you diagnose the ACTUAL problem. Even if you need some parts, I'm pretty certain that the Honda dealership is just playing keepsies with your wallet - there's no way, IMHO, that all those parts are needed.

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Happytrails
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Location: Natrona Hgts, Pennsylvania
Motorcycle: 1991 Goldwing 1500 SE
2018 Ural Gearup

Re: Rear brake dragging

Post by Happytrails »

Mh434 is probably right.



1991 GL1500 SE Anniversary Edition
Sun Flare Gold Metallic
Vallant Brown Inset

89 1500
Posts: 141
Joined: Sat Jul 19, 2014 2:29 pm
Location: Texas
Motorcycle: 89, 1500 candy wineberry gone to another owner
92 Aspencade Cambridge blue

Re: Rear brake dragging

Post by 89 1500 »

Mh434 wrote:
Thu May 23, 2019 10:44 pm
Another likely possibility (which doesn't require ANY parts) is that the grease on the slider pins that hold the caliper in place (and let it slide from side to side as required) is dried up, or there's not enough of it. When this happens, the caliper stays over to one side, rather than self-centering like it should, and the pad on one side drags. I had that happen on my GL1100, and it heated up so bad that the brake eventually locked up until it sat long enough for the rotor to cool down.

Those pins HAVE to be well greased if the caliper is going to work.

The idea that you need the entire rear brake's parts replaced says to me that your dealer is trying to get rich off you, and counting on you not learning that most, if not all, of those parts are unnecessary. I HATE seeing people ripped off!!!

If I were you, I'd see if I could connect with one of your other local GL1500 owners who's handy with tools. Most of us would be very happy indeed to help out another 'Wing owner. If you know of anyone in your local GWRRA chapter, they'll definitely put you in touch with a GL1500 "guru" who can help you. It's a very close-knit community.

At the very least, they'll help you diagnose the ACTUAL problem. Even if you need some parts, I'm pretty certain that the Honda dealership is just playing keepsies with your wallet - there's no way, IMHO, that all those parts are needed.


Yup prolly right on the money. Happened to my old wing. I just did my brakes and always make sure the calipers move free on the pins. Stealerships don't have mechanics anymore, parts changers at best. If they can't plug it into a laptop or have a manual put them on a problem they're lost.

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CrystalPistol
Posts: 1395
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2010 9:07 pm
Location: Shenandoah Valley of Virginia
Motorcycle: 1997 GL1500SE/'98 Lehman Trike

Re: Rear brake dragging

Post by CrystalPistol »

My bet is piston or both pistons in rear caliper are sticking. BT-DT.

Before R&R-ing the rear master cylinder, I'd either replace or rebuild rear brake caliper, flush and bleed system entirely, and go from there.

There are parts changers … and then there are mechanics.


Make Courtesy your "Code of the Road" …

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