rebuild a U-joint


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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fibersport
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2002 Honda Shadow VLX Deluxe

rebuild a U-joint

Post by fibersport » Tue Jul 02, 2019 9:13 pm



Has anyone ever rebuilt a U-Joint for one of these bikes? From what I've seen, it looks like a regular u-joint with female splined yokes. It sure would save a ton of money to be able to just replace just the u-joint itself rather than all the parts.



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WingAdmin
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Re: rebuild a U-joint

Post by WingAdmin » Tue Jul 02, 2019 9:24 pm

fibersport wrote:
Tue Jul 02, 2019 9:13 pm
Has anyone ever rebuilt a U-Joint for one of these bikes? From what I've seen, it looks like a regular u-joint with female splined yokes. It sure would save a ton of money to be able to just replace just the u-joint itself rather than all the parts.
There was a while back when the supplier Honda used for the GL1500 U-joints went out of business, and all the new U-joints dried up. People were stranded with GL1500's that had failed universal joints, as there were no new ones to be had, and the price of used ones shot up to crazy amounts.

At least one company started rebuilding them, removing the factory bearings and pressing in replaceable, serviceable bearings. It takes a bit of work, as the factory bearings are staked in place, so some machining is required to seat the replacement bearings.

Once Honda got a new supplier, the new U-joints became available again, and it wasn't financially feasible to rebuild them anymore.

So yes, it's possible to do...but not easy.

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CrystalPistol
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Re: rebuild a U-joint

Post by CrystalPistol » Tue Jul 02, 2019 11:21 pm

I am not sure where I got this info, but I saved it … just in case I needed it. I did not create this, but he seemed to want it "out there" to help others.

As I recall, and from close scrutiny, appears all the GL-1200, 1500, and even 1800s use same "cross" in the joint. I have some of each, only the yokes seemed to grow from 1200 to 1500s and then Valks. The 1800 joint I have has been modified on it's rear yoke, but cross and front splines are same, though yoke lengths (front yoke is longer) vary.

There are two suppliers I have come up with, one is part # 1-0475 by NEAPCO and the other is part # 5-0400QG by QUALITY GEAR. You will have to do some checking to find them, I ended up purchasing one at a driveline shop. I have added pictures of my proceedures and will do my best to explain them. 1- Grind the crimping tabs (that hold the caps in) off flush with the bore using a die grinder or Dremmel. 2- Push the caps out with a arbor press or vice. The caps won't come out all the way but far enough to grab them in the vice and knock the yoke off. 3- The replacement u-joint comes with outside snap rings which the ones shown in the picture turned out to be packaged wrong and had to get proper ones from a supplier. In my case I was able to machine snap ring grooves in the bore. But if you don't have that option then may I suggest Mig welding a spot or two in the bore right beside the caps. Be careful not to burn the caps or you will be starting back at #1. Hope this helps someone in the future seeing as Honda has not had the drive coupler available for some time. If you have any question please contact me. Bob Henshaw
He put some pics with his post.












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oldmopars
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Re: rebuild a U-joint

Post by oldmopars » Wed Jul 03, 2019 11:19 am

I am very impressed with the creativity of the guy that machined a new grove in the joints to use easy to find replacements. Nice job. However this is way beyond 99% of normal Goldwing owners abilities. Very few of us have the kind of machine shop required to do that kind of work. Most of us are lucky to have a decent garage to work out of.
Because new ones are now available again, the price would have to be really high before I invested this kind of money at a shop to do the work for me.
So, kudo's. Don't read this as "the guy is wasting time or money", but read it as "I am jealous of his shop."

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Alan_Hepburn
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Re: rebuild a U-joint

Post by Alan_Hepburn » Wed Jul 03, 2019 11:45 am

oldmopars wrote:
Wed Jul 03, 2019 11:19 am
So, kudo's. Don't read this as "the guy is wasting time or money", but read it as "I am jealous of his shop."
Yeah, kind of like watching that old PBS show "New Yankee Workshop" - "We need to plane this board, but this ShopSmith is facing east/west while the board is north/south so we have to take it over to the ShopSmith on the other side of the shop..."
Alan Hepburn - San Jose, Ca
1994 GL1500SE with a California Sidecar

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CrystalPistol
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Re: rebuild a U-joint

Post by CrystalPistol » Wed Jul 03, 2019 2:50 pm

Oh, I know it's not a real option in today's market with U joints available, and there are other ways to retain a bearing cap in the yoke without machining grooves. Question was asked "Has anyone ever rebuilt a U-Joint for one of these bikes?" …. and I just answered the qrestion and showed what was involved. For what it's worth, I bought a new one for the 1500 trike and kept the used, but still decent OEM as a spare. For my 1200 I just bought a used on cheap off Ebay, kept it as a spare.

Love my old '56 made Shop Smith, has many uses.
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fibersport
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Re: rebuild a U-joint

Post by fibersport » Wed Jul 03, 2019 6:55 pm

Thanks to all for the replies, at least I now know why there are so many used ones out there. CrystalPistol - thanks for sharing the information, this will be one to save in the archives if I ever get ambitious and can talk a machinist friend into a little side job. I'm noticing some vibration that is not tire related that can be either a u-joint or the rubber isolators in the rear hub and had wondered why I didn't see any posts on just rebuilding one rather than buying a new one -



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