OEM stock alternator output


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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steve allen
Posts: 163
Joined: Thu Nov 19, 2009 8:51 am
Location: theodore, al
Motorcycle: 2002 Yamaha VMax 1200
1994 GL1500 SE
1995 CB1000

OEM stock alternator output

Post by steve allen » Fri Aug 16, 2019 8:03 am



I have a 1994 GL1500SE that the original alternator went out a few years ago, bought a rebuilt from ebay, less than a year later, it gave up. I got a replacement under warrantee, now, less than a year later, has gave up again...…..question, is the oem alternator a high output? The ones I replaced was 55-60 amp I believe, just wonder if I was to replace with high output, and would it hurt electrical system? Thanks, Steve



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bluthundr31
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Location: Morgan Hill, CA.
Motorcycle: 1991 GL1500 Interstate (Cinnamon Beige)

Re: OEM stock alternator output

Post by bluthundr31 » Fri Aug 16, 2019 10:45 am

The OEM alternator is not a high-output alternator and can quickly become "under-powered" when numerous electrical add-ons are installed. There are a handful of manufacturers that make 90-95 amp output alternators that will fit the 1500's. Compufire is a common high output replacement for the OEM alternators. The high output alternators will not impair your electrical system.

Do a "search" on this topic and you'll see many discussions about the compufire and others too.

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hugger-4641
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Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 Aspencade, 1982 CM 200 Twinstar, 1984 VT500 Ascot

Re: OEM stock alternator output

Post by hugger-4641 » Fri Aug 16, 2019 11:12 am

As mentioned already, the OEM alternator is only 40amp. The Compufire is the way to go if you can spare the change. I'm running DB electrical 90 amp on mine and have been happy with it, but I did have a regulator go out on it after two years. I think this was actually due to a short that I had, so I 'm not blaming the alternator. Either way, you need to make sure your battery is a good AGM type battery if you upgrade the alternator.
The enemy of any alternator, particularly the regulator assembly, is heat. The Goldwing does not have a really good path for heat to escape the alternator area, so it is really important to keep the alternator clean and free from dust, oil film, etc. I have even contemplated modifying my side covers to allow some extra airflow, just haven't done it yet.

steve allen
Posts: 163
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Location: theodore, al
Motorcycle: 2002 Yamaha VMax 1200
1994 GL1500 SE
1995 CB1000

Re: OEM stock alternator output

Post by steve allen » Mon Sep 09, 2019 4:25 pm

Again, my alternator has bit the dust....3rd one in 2 years! I just had the oem alternator rebuilt, and it didn't last a hundred miles. I have no extra lights on bike, no accessories aftermarket, what could be killing my alternator? 1994 SE with a bit over 125,000 miles.

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CrystalPistol
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Location: Shenandoah Valley of Virginia
Motorcycle: 1997 GL1500SE/'98 Lehman Trike

Re: OEM stock alternator output

Post by CrystalPistol » Mon Sep 09, 2019 5:50 pm

I bought my trike and found it already had a Comp-u-Fire alternator …. and new Odyssey AGM battery in 2004. Comp-u-Fire developed a open winding of the rotor in 2005 later, took it to local alt / gen / motor repair shop. New rotor on shelf, brushes were like new, cost just a little over $100 to get fixed. Found out then that it was a Delphi or DelcoRemy CS121 car alternator with a new redesigned end frame to mount and a new 4 vane driver in place of pulley, has internal regulator/rectifier. A repair kit for Delco CS130 or CS121 will service it.
It never gave me another problem.

I stumbled on another Comp-u-Fire on Ebay years later, new off a wreck. Threw in a $120 bid & won. It's my #1 backup.
I was also given a good working OEM alternator, it's my #2 backup.
That 2004 Odyssey PC680 AGM battery was removed from the trike in 2016 … and is currently serving in what was my 1985 GL1200A I sold in June, and still doing it's thing. I replaced it simply because I thought 12 years was long enough, apparently it wasn't long enough.

OEM (smaller one) vs Comp-u-Fire (bigger one)


I just remembered, I actually have the Ebay one on the trike, the older one is my #1 backup now because … my first Comp-u-Fire developed an oil leak at shaft seal behind the vaned drive, I replaced the bad seal with Chicago Rawhide # 9878 or National # 471224 seal. Made a "vane wrench" of wood to hold vane drive still while I turned shaft with a big Allen wrench. So I know both are A-OK.
Make Courtesy your "Code of the Road" …

… & Have a Safe Trip!
:)

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hugger-4641
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Re: OEM stock alternator output

Post by hugger-4641 » Tue Sep 10, 2019 2:19 pm

steve allen wrote:
Mon Sep 09, 2019 4:25 pm
Again, my alternator has bit the dust....3rd one in 2 years! I just had the oem alternator rebuilt, and it didn't last a hundred miles. I have no extra lights on bike, no accessories aftermarket, what could be killing my alternator? 1994 SE with a bit over 125,000 miles.
Please see my prior post about the causes of failure, but rebuilding OEM alternators is a roll of the dice unless the rotor has been replaced or re-wound. The mfg of the OEM Hitachi alternators was moved to China in the mid 1990's and they suffer from a weak point of the wire in the rotor assemblies. I have replaced brushes and regulators on several OEM units only to have the rotor windings fail shortly after. I have actually fixed a few of these rotors also and also have a DIY article here about fixing this problem, however, it is not something I recommend to try unless you have the tools and the skills. If you can even find third party to do this , it is usually cost prohibitive as well. The ones I repaired that were not my own were done as favors to friends, there's just too much labor involved to really be economical.
If you can't spare the dough to get a Compufire or other upgrade, I would just pick up a couple new OEM's on E-bay for about $50 each and keep one ready. Like I said, it's a crap shoot, you may get an OEM that lasts 60k miles or, as you have experienced, it may last 100. My experience with them is anywhere from 10k to 40k miles before they fail.

waynedudes
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Location: Richmond, KY
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 with CSC Trike conversion

Re: OEM stock alternator output

Post by waynedudes » Sun Mar 15, 2020 4:22 pm

I have an 94 GL1500SE, with CSC Trike conversion. So I have a lot of lights on it. I have blown the 30 amp rear light relays twice. Also alternator failed and I replaced it with an oem one. Then decided to replace that one with an 85 amp lactric alternator. The oem one was still good. So now it is a spare. I am also using an agm battery with the largest cca I could find. So I am thinking that I have too many lights for the 30 amp relay. I am thinking about splitting up the rear lights and adding an additional relay or two? Anybody's thoughts?
Another thought, can the OEM alternator or any alternator be rebuilt with more amps? Then it originally had. Thanks

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Rambozo
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Re: OEM stock alternator output

Post by Rambozo » Sun Mar 15, 2020 4:46 pm

Best thing is to switch to LED lights. That will drop your current use a bunch, and be brighter. You can measure the current your lights are using to see if it is too much for your relay. Relays fail for many reasons so unless you take it apart to find the failure mode, you can't say if it went from excessive lights. You can also put a capacitor across the relay contacts to prevent arcing and contact welding. But the best is to just go LED, instead. Your whole electrical system will thank you as it won't have to work as hard to light your rolling Christmas tree.
An alternator can be rewound to have more output, but it usually isn't cost effective unless there are no other options.

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newday777
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Re: OEM stock alternator output

Post by newday777 » Sun Mar 15, 2020 5:51 pm

waynedudes wrote:
Sun Mar 15, 2020 4:22 pm
I have an 94 GL1500SE, with CSC Trike conversion. So I have a lot of lights on it. I have blown the 30 amp rear light relays twice. Also alternator failed and I replaced it with an oem one. Then decided to replace that one with an 85 amp lactric alternator. The oem one was still good. So now it is a spare. I am also using an agm battery with the largest cca I could find. So I am thinking that I have too many lights for the 30 amp relay. I am thinking about splitting up the rear lights and adding an additional relay or two? Anybody's thoughts?
Another thought, can the OEM alternator or any alternator be rebuilt with more amps? Then it originally had. Thanks
Ken Hemmings can rebuild and rewind to higher output.


http://myplace.frontier.com/~hemi-roid/

waynedudes
Posts: 30
Joined: Sun Jun 19, 2016 6:14 am
Location: Richmond, KY
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 with CSC Trike conversion

Re: OEM stock alternator output

Post by waynedudes » Mon Mar 16, 2020 1:16 pm

Thanks for the info. I have tried led lights before, but the ones I purchased were very cheap made. Also quite expensive. I even had a couple break while I was installing them. The contacts were the problem. What is a good source of quality and not extremely expensive led bulbs? I will need a bunch. Haa. Thanks for the reply.

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hugger-4641
Posts: 281
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Location: McKenzie, TN
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 Aspencade, 1982 CM 200 Twinstar, 1984 VT500 Ascot

Re: OEM stock alternator output

Post by hugger-4641 » Mon Mar 16, 2020 1:24 pm

newday777 wrote:
Sun Mar 15, 2020 5:51 pm
waynedudes wrote:
Sun Mar 15, 2020 4:22 pm
I have an 94 GL1500SE, with CSC Trike conversion. So I have a lot of lights on it. I have blown the 30 amp rear light relays twice. Also alternator failed and I replaced it with an oem one. Then decided to replace that one with an 85 amp lactric alternator. The oem one was still good. So now it is a spare. I am also using an agm battery with the largest cca I could find. So I am thinking that I have too many lights for the 30 amp relay. I am thinking about splitting up the rear lights and adding an additional relay or two? Anybody's thoughts?
Another thought, can the OEM alternator or any alternator be rebuilt with more amps? Then it originally had. Thanks
Ken Hemmings can rebuild and rewind to higher output.


http://myplace.frontier.com/~hemi-roid/
Rewinding will not give you a higher output per say. You can change the number of wire wraps and get a higher or lower voltage, but this will not likely help you. You need higher amperage from the alternator without damage. This is determined by the electronics, I.E. the regulator assembly which contains the diodes and transistors that control the output. These are what have to be "beefed up" to allow the alternator to output more amps without damage.



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