LCD clock

[Redhot]

For some reason, LCD screen is staying on when ignition is off. This is in off unlocked position, and off with steering lock on. Everything else switches off. I can check pressure reading as well as clock showing.Any thoughts ?

[bellboy40]

The LCD will have power to it when the ignition switch is in On, Acc or Park. The only time it is off is when the switch is in the off position.

[Redhot]

The LCD will have power to it when the ignition switch is in On, Acc or Park. The only time it is off is when the switch is in the off position.

Not sure you read my post correctly. The LCD stays ON when the switch is off. So it's on ALL the time, no matter what position. However, all the dash lights go off, as do any other lights. I've turned key back and forth slightly in both off positions, just to make sure, but no, it just stays on no matter what. No real drain on battery, but annoying. It keeps time fine, It displays pressure if I want, but all this with ignition switch off ! Just a thought, is there a relay that supplies the LCD ? Maybe it's sticking on ?

[bellboy40]

No, I didn't read it the way your just described. I did not understand that it was not off when the ignition switch was off.
There is no relay feeding that circuit. It comes from the ignition switch to the 10 amp ACC Fuse then on to the LCD, hazard flasher relay, air pump relay, radio and CB. Does all that other stuff work also with the switch turned off? Looks like the main suspect is the ignition swtitch.
Edit: I forgot to attach a schematic of the power distribution for that circuit.

Power dist for ACC

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Cheers. Yes, ignition switch does seem to be the obvious choice, but after turning off and on a load of times,wiggling the key in the off (11 o'clock) and steering lock-off (7 o'clock) nothing changed. I'll check those functions later today. Come to think of it, I tried pressuring up air with it off, and nothing happened. It did display the pressure with the check button though.I seemed to remember a post a while back with erratic lcd, cured by replacing r3 relay ?

[Erdeniz Umman]

Would you remove the fuse #9 (back up), and check again,then the fuse #10 (ACC)?
Report the results and then we can continue troubleshooting.

[Erdeniz Umman]

If I am not wrong your bike is a 89 EuroSpec model, right?
So here is the wiring diagram for your bike.

[Redhot]

If I am not wrong your bike is a 89 EuroSpec model, right?
So here is the wiring diagram for your bike.

Hi. Yes Erdeniz, an 89. Before I read your reply, I went out to check this morning, LCD still on. I disconnected battery, LCD went off. Reconnected, and it stays off Turns on with ignition, and now turns off as it should. Good news, but what would have caused that ? I hate mysteries, I'm just waiting for it to happen again.

[Erdeniz Umman]

There may be a melted connector, relay pin, broken wire etc. making a short somewhere.
Is there any electrical modification on the bike, any alarm system etc?

[Redhot]

Yes. There is an aftermarket alarm, and a couple of cigarette sockets. I'll check through those.

[Erdeniz Umman]

Yes. There is an aftermarket alarm, and a couple of cigarette sockets. I'll check through those.

If the alarm has a connection to the hazard lights, it can be the culprit because the LCD unit and hazard lights use the same ACC fuse circuit shown in the diagram below.

If there is a short or a reverse feeding on the circuit, you might have a continuous power on the line.

I know it is hard to follow the lines on the diagram. Actually I had prepared color diagrams for 93-2000 models, although there are some differences you can still use them in some ways.

[Mh434]

I had a small aftermarket thermometer/clock/volt meter unit that the OP had installed. It never worked correctly and one day it failed internally, causing the "always hot" part of its wiring to short to the "ignition on" part of the wiring. This allowed power to flow to parts of the ignition circuit to be always-live....including my LCD, which did as yours does.

So, if you have any aftermarket electric/electronic farkles, ones with an always-hot feed (usually those with some kind of memory), try disconnecting them from their always-hot feed wires.

If that's not it, you can always check the infamous "Relay #3" which can cause all sorts of weird, random issues...including forcing parts of the ignition circuit to stay live. It could be that when you disconnected the battery, it finally freed the relay, thereby solving the problem.....for now. If this is the case, when it happens again, tap Relay #3 sharply with a screwdriver handle. If it all suddenly goes back to normal, the relay needs replacement. WingAdmin, here, has what is probably the last supply of these relays on earth, and at a price you cannot match anywhere on earth. I bought 3 from him, and carry the extras as spares.....

[Redhot]

Thanks. My cigarette lighter sockets go straight to battery. I'm still thinking a relay, can't think what else would suddenly resolve itself when battery lead was removed and re connected ? Maybe it's the relay you mentioned. New relay from wingadmin. My problem being that I'm in uk, and anything from USA costs an arm and a leg to ship. Seems to be ok at moment, I'll see how it fairs over next couple weeks. Erdeniz, thanks for the great colour schematic.

[Erdeniz Umman]

For the relays in the relay box except the blue one, you can use hmc deco 95220-22100 relay used in 1990-2000 model Hyundai cars.

[Redhot]

That's great, thanks for the tip.