Need Carburetor help!!!!

[HiRef]

Here is the story: bought a 88 GL1500 this past Feb. It needed some work, tires, brakes, LCD screen, fuel petcock, etc. She ran but had the hesitation then giving throttle. I took the bike over to my dad's to rebuild the carbs. He done carbs before and thought this could be a nice father son thing. We pulled the carbs off without a problem. Open up the replaced the seals, jets and needles with the carb rebuild kit. Set the floats to 8mm, set the idle screws to 2 turns and then hooked everything back up correctly. (double checking the hoses) Fire the bike up (without choke) and she started and held idle for about 10 seconds and then slowly started to die. With no air box on we could see that the right carb was getting a lot of fuel to the point that it floated the engine. When the engine was about to stall out, I gave it some choke and throttle and gas started to come out the right overflow hose. We are at a lost as to why this is happening. We know the floats are set correctly and that both fuel line are clear and connected but for some reason the right carb is getting so much fuel in it.

If anyone has encountered this and know how to fix, please let me know. OR if anyone knows a person that rebuilds 1988 GL1500 carbs (they are a little different than the 90's ones), I may need to ship them out to them.

Thanks for your time. I'll be happy to answer and question if need be.

[WvChamp]

Like the float was being held open (down) not allowing the fuel to shut off (slow down) ?
Maybe a couple good raps with a screw driver handle ?

[Charlie1Horse]

I would think that maybe you didn't get that float set quite correctly or the float valve is sticking and not properly closing. The float valve could possibly have a piece of trash in it keeping it from fully closing.
Russell

Those who say it cannot be done should try not to interrupt those who are doing it.

[virgilmobile]

After a rebuild,my right carb flooded.The vent was plugged for just that one carb.
Remove the vent crossover pipe and verify both vents are open.Blow air or draw a vacuum.

[Snowmoer]

Agree with the other posts. The carb float is sticking or the valve is not seating correctly to shut off the fuel. I had this happen on a ATV carb I just rebuilt. It eventually sealed.

With replacing your jets. Was the slow jet a #55? That is what Honda replaced the stock #50 with when they did the recall on the 88's. Most kits use a 60. It will work, but will run rich. You also get a very strong exhaust smell. That is what happened to me. I replaced the #60 this spring with a #55 and the bike runs much better.

[ct1500]

OEM parts? Generic chinlee kits can be hit or miss. Your float valve is probably not seating correctly more so if only the needles were replaced.

[2003Cobra]

Did you clean and check the needle valve seats? When I rebuild a carb, after I've assembled the float and bowl I will connect a clean hose to the inlet port and see if I can blow through it. Then I turn it over and try to blow through it again. If I can blow through the inlet port with the carb upside down then I will take the float back apart and see what is going on. One other thing to check it make sure the float is good and not allowing fuel to seep into it holding it down. One other thing I do is take a drill bit the size of the needle seat and use my hand to lightly turn the drill bit against the seat. You don't want to put much pressure at all so you mar up the seat only to make sure it is nice and smooth.

[terryt]

Here is the story: bought a 88 GL1500 this past Feb. It needed some work, tires, brakes, LCD screen, fuel petcock, etc. She ran but had the hesitation then giving throttle. I took the bike over to my dad's to rebuild the carbs. He done carbs before and thought this could be a nice father son thing. We pulled the carbs off without a problem. Open up the replaced the seals, jets and needles with the carb rebuild kit. Set the floats to 8mm, set the idle screws to 2 turns and then hooked everything back up correctly. (double checking the hoses) Fire the bike up (without choke) and she started and held idle for about 10 seconds and then slowly started to die. With no air box on we could see that the right carb was getting a lot of fuel to the point that it floated the engine. When the engine was about to stall out, I gave it some choke and throttle and gas started to come out the right overflow hose. We are at a lost as to why this is happening. We know the floats are set correctly and that both fuel line are clear and connected but for some reason the right carb is getting so much fuel in it.

If anyone has encountered this and know how to fix, please let me know. OR if anyone knows a person that rebuilds 1988 GL1500 carbs (they are a little different than the 90's ones), I may need to ship them out to them.

Thanks for your time. I'll be happy to answer and question if need be.

Did you completely strip the carb remove all jets then clean the carb in a ultra sonic tank. washing with clean water after. then blowing out with a air line to clear all traces of water. also pilot air screw ate set at 3 turns. then fine tuned when running

[HiRef]

Thank you everyone for the help. It was in fact one of the needle floats not fully seeding and closing off. We removed it and replaced with the original and it worked. Dad and I re-installed the carbs, synced them and buttoned up all the plastics.

Rode her back from my dad's home to mine (30miles) until.... about 8 blocks from my home she died, flooded again. Getting her trailer back to my house where once again be pulling the carbs. Forget where I bought the rebuild kit from (bought like 6 months ago for like $60) but looks like I'll get another one. Any recommendations?

[Charlie1Horse]

No personal experience but, I read good reviews for Randakk's carb kits. Check www.randakks.com
Russell

Those who say it cannot be done should try not to interrupt those who are doing it.

[Elmobile]

Randall’s is the kit I used to rebuild mines. Not cheap but very high quality. The needle valves are not included but they usually don’t need to be replaced. If needed, get an OEM set. A lot of good information on his site as well.

[bellboy40]

I agree that the OEM needles are way better than anything else you get from aftermarket suppliers. If your original needles are bad, the only thing to replace them with is the ones from Honda. Randakks sells a good quality kit for the carbs if you need it, but of course you pay for quality.

[Elmobile]

If you go for new needle valves, you will need a "special" tool to get to them. A reduced 10 mm wrench. Below a pic of my home made one...

Also don't forget the small filter above the needle seat. They should come with them when you remove them. However one of mine stay stuck in there! An overnight bath in Sea Foam, followed by carefully blowing them dry, will take care of them...

[HiRef]

Thank you all once again.