Replacing Driveshaft U Joint on 98 Wing

[StrongEagle]

A few questions about the post title, if I may.

1. I am pretty sure that my driveshaft U joint is failing. How do I know this? When I am at speed, 65 mph or greater, and I completely close the throttle to slow down, I feel a fairly rapid vibration in the bike. This vibration is not present when cruising nor when accelerating. I can't think what else it might be. Any advice on confirming U joint problems would be appreciated, and of course, any opinions as to the issue with my bike also appreciated.
2. I have read through the excellent article on how to replace your U joint and/or driveshaft (viewtopic.php?t=30309). I am a pretty decent decent mechanic, with an OK set of tools, and I'd appreciate any feedback on the difficulty in doing this job myself. Any gotcha's, tricks, or special equipment required to do this job? Any estimate of the number of hours it will take to get it done?
3. I've been looking for a decent mechanic in Houston to do the work, but two of the best ones I know don't want to work on Goldwings. I am leery of taking it to the dealer because of high labor costs. Therefore, if anyone in the Houston area has a recommendation for a mechanic, I'd sure like to hear about it.

Many thanks to all.

Cheers.

[ct1500]

What is the mileage on the machine and did this problem suddenly appear, any events/work precede this condition?

[StrongEagle]

84,000 miles. Noticed it slightly about 6 or 8 weeks ago, now 500 or so miles later, seems like I am noticing it more as I decelerate on the freeway. I'm beginning to wonder if I am going to get stranded.

[MikeB]

If it only happens on deceleration, I would take a look at the rubber dampers in rear wheel before I started to suspect the universal joint. I replaced my dampers to fix the issue you are describing a few years ago.

The aluminum blocks that the drive coupling goes into, five of them, do wear. And the rubber dampers that the aluminum blocks are in also gets worn. If you have never removed the plate that keeps the rubber dampers in place, you should.

CycleMax of Ohio has a set of the dampers in stock for $33.00

As to the aluminum blocks, they are part number 41242-MR5-000.
They sell for about $14 each and are available from Amazon if you should need them.

[CrystalPistol]

First signs of a bad U-joint in my experience, is when at speed and in a coast mode, like you're just easing off the throttle and the U-joint is neither loaded by acceleration or deceleration loads, I feel it in the foot pegs first. In a car or pickup, I see it in the mirror vibration and usually hear it rumble. On you wing, a 1500 OEM bike, I think the swing arm will have to be pulled back to remove & replace the U-joint. As far as I can recall, Honda superceded the GL1500 Gold Wing U-joint with the Valkyrie U-joint. Same cross, just slightly beefier yokes so it will look slightly different. Long yoke to engine, short yoke to driveshaft.

Look on right side at rear of engine, rubber boot hides U-joint and keeps stuff out of driveshaft tube. You might see if you can feel looseness where it shouldn't be.

The Honda U-joint is sealed, not greasable, but they are durable. I keep a spare now.

My 1500 is a trike, no rubbers. My thought is you have to pull the wheel anyway, worth a look as in the above post.

[StrongEagle]

Thanks for all the great information. It looks like if I am going to take everything apart, I might as well replace bushings and boots while doing the work.

I'll have to take the bike out and test more specifically when the vibration occurs.

For those that have done this job, have you got an estimate of hours, start to finish?

Thanks.

[MikeB]

You can read through this topic to get an idea of the process. viewtopic.php?f=14&t=30309

I do not have an hour count on the job from start to finish. I usually allot a time frame, in this case a day and a half since I had never done it before, and then just took my time. I suppose if one was to count the hours used, it would be about 6 hours but I didn't keep track of that.

[WingAdmin]

First signs of a bad U-joint in my experience, is when at speed and in a coast mode, like you're just easing off the throttle and the U-joint is neither loaded by acceleration or deceleration loads, I feel it in the foot pegs first. In a car or pickup, I see it in the mirror vibration and usually hear it rumble. On you wing, a 1500 OEM bike, I think the swing arm will have to be pulled back to remove & replace the U-joint. As far as I can recall, Honda superceded the GL1500 Gold Wing U-joint with the Valkyrie U-joint. Same cross, just slightly beefier yokes so it will look slightly different. Long yoke to engine, short yoke to driveshaft.

This. That's exactly what mine was doing when the U-joint started to go. No indication on acceleration or deceleration, but feather the throttle at speed so that there is no appreciable load on the driveshaft, and I could feel vibration in the footpegs.

Keep in mind that if you are replacing yours, and use the Valkyrie U-joint (which you should), you'll also need to replace the rubber boot with the larger Valkyrie one that fits over it.

[CrystalPistol]

First signs of a bad U-joint in my experience, is whe … etc ...

This. That's exactly what mine was doing when the U-joint started to go. No indication on acceleration or deceleration, but feather the throttle at speed so that there is no appreciable load on the driveshaft, and I could feel vibration in the footpegs.

Keep in mind that if you are replacing yours, and use the Valkyrie U-joint (which you should), you'll also need to replace the rubber boot with the larger Valkyrie one that fits over it.

OK, didn't know that about the boot. My trike has remnants of OEM boot, but the driveshaft is not in a tube enclosed and isolated from surroundings, it is open on lower side, so remnants of a boot are OK in my case. The remnants serve to keep fingers out of unintended harm's way.

Pardon dirty looking film, I have really waxed the mufflers at times. The drive shaft is no longer wearing the patina seen hear, it's shiny black now, well black anyway. The trike wears an Xtractor.

[MikeB]

That's exactly what mine was doing when the U-joint started to go. No indication on acceleration or deceleration, but feather the throttle at speed so that there is no appreciable load on the driveshaft, and I could feel vibration in the footpegs.

Keep in mind that if you are replacing yours, and use the Valkyrie U-joint (which you should), you'll also need to replace the rubber boot with the larger Valkyrie one that fits over it.

At what mileage did you change the universal joint Scott? I replaced the joint and the boot on my '98 at 159,900 miles. I didn't start to feel the vibrations at speed until about 158,000 miles or so.

[WingAdmin]

That's exactly what mine was doing when the U-joint started to go. No indication on acceleration or deceleration, but feather the throttle at speed so that there is no appreciable load on the driveshaft, and I could feel vibration in the footpegs.

Keep in mind that if you are replacing yours, and use the Valkyrie U-joint (which you should), you'll also need to replace the rubber boot with the larger Valkyrie one that fits over it.

At what mileage did you change the universal joint Scott? I replaced the joint and the boot on my '98 at 159,900 miles. I didn't start to feel the vibrations at speed until about 158,000 miles or so.

I replaced mine at about 80,000 miles, which is when I started feeling the vibration.

[fibersport]

If you replace the cushions in the rear wheel, order a complete set from Honda for about $45 - and it includes the aluminum pieces. I have ordered them but not yet installed them, if you can wait, I can get the Honda part number. You could also search as I found the information somewhere in this forum. I've got some errands to run now but will get back ASAP with the number.

[fibersport]

The damper set cost $45.76 + tax, the part number is 06410-MBH-000.

[WingAdmin]

$43.40 on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/HONDA-06410-MBH- ... B00I87BP24

[MikeB]

The HONDA 06410-MBH-000 DAMPER SET fits the Valkyrie but that part number is not in the GL1500 A or SE parts manual.
And the item is listed to fit the following models shown below but it does not include the GL1500I, A or SE.
Can anyone confirm or deny that this part number will fit the GL1500 Gold Wing Interstate, Aspencade or SE?

Fits:
2018 VT750CS
2018 VT750C2B
2018 VT750C
2017 VT750C2B
2016 VT750CS
2016 VT750C2B
2016 VT750C
2015 VT750CS
2015 VT750C2B
2015 VT750C
2014 VT750CS
2014 VT750CA
2014 VT750C2S
2014 VT750C2F
2014 VT750C2B
2014 VT750C2
2014 VT750C
2013 VT750RS
2013 VT750CS
2013 VT750CA
2013 VT750C2S
2013 VT750C2F
2013 VT750C2B
2013 VT750C2
2013 VT750C
2007 VT1100C2
2006 VT1100C2
2005 VT1100C2
2004 VT1100C2
2003 VT1100C2
2003 GL1500CD
2003 GL1500C
2002 VT1100C3
2002 VT1100C2
2002 GL1500CD
2001 VT1100T
2001 VT1100C3
2001 VT1100C2
2001 GL1500CF
2001 GL1500CD
2000 VT1100T
2000 VT1100C3
2000 VT1100C2
2000 GL1500CT
2000 GL1500CF
2000 GL1500C
1999 VT1100T
1999 VT1100D2
1999 VT1100C3
1999 VT1100C2
1999 GL1500CT
1999 GL1500CF
1999 GL1500C
1998 VT1100T
1998 VT1100C3
1998 VT1100C2-2
1998 VT1100C2
1998 GL1500CT
1998 GL1500C
1997 GL1500CT
1997 GL1500C

[bellboy40]

I found the rear wheel dampers on Partzilla for the GL1500s. Here is what they show fits the Goldwings.

https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/42617-MT8-000

[DougEFresh1123]

A few questions about the post title, if I may.

1. I have read through the excellent article on how to replace your U joint and/or driveshaft (viewtopic.php?t=30309). I am a pretty decent decent mechanic, with an OK set of tools, and I'd appreciate any feedback on the difficulty in doing this job myself. Any gotcha's, tricks, or special equipment required to do this job? Any estimate of the number of hours it will take to get it done?
2. I've been looking for a decent mechanic in Houston to do the work, but two of the best ones I know don't want to work on Goldwings. I am leery of taking it to the dealer because of high labor costs. Therefore, if anyone in the Houston area has a recommendation for a mechanic, I'd sure like to hear about it.

Many thanks to all.

Cheers.

There are no special tools, except patience and take lots of pictures as you are getting ready to remove pieces and as you are taking them apart. One thing you should consider is draining the drive shaft of the gear oil first so you don't make a mess. One tip I knew about before draining the drive shaft was loosen the fill plug first. Some people have had a tendency to over tighten the cap and if you have drained the fluid and can't get the plug off your stuck.

If I can do it, so can you. I'm not mechanical but thanks to the "How-To" section I was able to change fluids, filters and timing belts; rebuild brakes, and do a complete lube of the U-joint and drive shaft as well as general maintenance on my bike. Follow this link, because I may have asked some of the same questions, or encountered some of the same issues you might encounter. viewtopic.php?f=6&t=46666&hilit=doug%27s+winter

Don't be afraid to ask questions and post pictures because some one here will be able to help.

Doug

[MikeB]

I found the rear wheel dampers on Partzilla for the GL1500s. Here is what they show fits the Goldwings.

https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/42617-MT8-000

Actually, part number 42617-MT8-000 will get you the plate that holds the dampers in place and not the dampers, see diagram below.

If you determine that the damper set needs to be replaced, what you will need is item # 1, 06410-MZ0-A00 DAMPER SET, WHEEL and 5 each of item # 3, 41242-MR5-000 PIECE, DAMPER WHEEL.

I wish I knew of a part number where you would get the entire set but I do not.

Since the wheel has to come off in order to do the universal joint replacement, if necessary, it would make sense to inspect the damper and aluminum inserts prior to diving in to the universal joint replacement.
In the event that the universal joint and the boot need to be replaced, the part number for the joint is 91261-ME9-005 and the part number for the boot is 52104-MN5-000.

What they will cost you depends on where you purchase them. I prefer to deal with either Cyclemax of Ohio, http://cyclemax.com/ or Partzilla, www.partzilla.com.

[fibersport]

I got that part number through a post on this forum, actually from what I remember when I pulled my rear tire off they should fit just fine.

[MikeB]

I got that part number through a post on this forum, actually from what I remember when I pulled my rear tire off they should fit just fine.

When you said that you had gotten the part number from this site it got me to thinking. There has to be a trail back to the dampers and the feasibility of putting them in a Gold Wing when the part number is actually a Valkyrie part number.
I searched for part number 06410-MBH-000 and I found they do fit. Good job fibersport.
Read through this posting: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=33852&p=201167&hilit

[fibersport]

You know, I didn't even think to search by the part number - sometimes the obvious isn't so obvious! Thanks for finding it MikeB, hopefully it will save a bunch of us some money.