fork springs help.

[Johnf1059]

How much tension are on the stock fork springs on a 1500. Has no air fitting on top. Is it doable on the bike? Do I need a press to put them back in? Thanks.

[virgilmobile]

My 88...I made a "tool" and marked the thread start point..I stood on the seat and really leaned into it (180lb) to compress the spring enough to be able to start the cap back on..Glad I had to do that just once.
There's instructions on "how to" make your own tool.

[Johnf1059]

Dang! Was hoping there wasn’t that much tension on them. Ok thanks for the reply!

[Erdeniz Umman]

I am not sure the model differences between the years, but on my 2000 model bike, I hadn't experienced such a tension.
Just jack up the front tire to extend the forks and then remove the top nut.
After removing the top nut you can drill and tap it for an Allen bolt.

[virgilmobile]

I had my front wheel up as well.Stock springs extended about 4" above the tube.It was a balancing act to get it compressed..lining up on the thread marker and then carefully turn it a half rotation to catch the thread without cross threading it.Glad I only had to do it once.
I also drilled and tapped it for easy oil change.
And the first one I removed...I wasn't prepared for it....it hit the ceiling and disappeared under the bench.

[Johnf1059]

Would you recommend taking the forks off the bike or leave them on? I just had the forks off to rebuild them. My book says the left fork takes 10.9 fl oz and the right takes 10.8 fl oz. after putting them back on the front forks bottom out when hitting a bump. There is no air fittings on them. What yas think? not enough oil perhaps? I did not take the springs out when I rebuilt them.

[virgilmobile]

I've done them both ways.Its just a bit harder to get the clip off to pull the lowers with them on the bike.I use a split PVC coupler to tap the new seal into place.
Either way you absolutely must follow the reinstall steps and torque settings.

The last consideration is replacing the oil unless the top cap has a opening for that.

[virgilmobile]

By the way..There a "how to" in the GL1500 section on rebuilding your front forks.

[ct1500]

Simplest way to replace fork caps is off the bike. Have an assistant hold upright with upper extended and slider resting on floor. With appropriate socket, extension and ratchet bear straight down on cap compressing spring until touching upper threaded portion, then have assistant turn tube engaging threads of cap.

If in-bike stand on passenger footrests leaning forward with appropriate length socket extension and ratchet under you .

A paint mark made on tube and cap with springs removed where threads start to engage will aid installation.

[WingAdmin]

The springs on my 2000 SE also were sticking out a good four or five inches after the caps were removed. I would not want to try to push them in by hand while threading on that (very fine, easily cross-threaded) cap at the same time.

See the tool I used here: viewtopic.php?f=14&t=16118

[Erdeniz Umman]

I think the difference is because of some changes or modifications made during the years.
My 2000 model bike has the piece #5 in the picture.

[MikeB]

I have used a speed handle on several occasions to remove and install the fork caps on my GL1500.
There is a post on fork oil replacement on this board from February of 2018 that may be helpful.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=41243&hilit

[cabinover]

Just replaced my seals and bushings off the bike and in a vise. I could hold down on the cap by hand and unscrew/screw the tube. Mine are original springs and measured within specs. I put the caliper bracket in the vise and pulled up on the fork tube. With the legs extended there shouldn't be 4" sticking out of the tube, maybe an inch to inch and a half.

[MikeB]

Just replaced my seals and bushings off the bike and in a vise. I could hold down on the cap by hand and unscrew/screw the tube. Mine are original springs and measured within specs. I put the caliper bracket in the vise and pulled up on the fork tube. With the legs extended there shouldn't be 4" sticking out of the tube, maybe an inch to inch and a half.

I agree. That has been y experience as well.

[WingAdmin]

I should have mentioned that when changing my springs, I have PROGRESSIVE springs in my forks, not OEM. There is no spacer, and they stick out the top quite a bit.

[cabinover]

That will certainly make a large difference. I need to try them someday.

[CrystalPistol]

I have used a speed handle on several occasions to remove and install the fork caps on my GL1500.
There is a post on fork oil replacement on this board from February of 2018 that may be helpful.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=41243&hilit

Bike on center stand …. or trike …. supported by jack with wide plywood plate under front of motor so frt wheel off floor, use a 1/2 inch drive speed wrench and have a 24" long piece of 2x4 with a 1/2" deep recess drilled with a forstner bit dead center. 2x4 across my chest, speed wrench top end in recess, me standing on rider pegs, socket on cap. Cap has a hole dead center for air, I remove it and drop phillips screw driver end into hole, into spring, cap stays on spring. Lean over fork tube and press with upper body, two hands free to deal with wrenching.

[wingdings]

have a go at building this tool viewtopic.php?f=14&t=36765