Help !!!! Brake line not bleeding.

[Stantheman55]

Happy holidays to all.
I have two items
Today was rebuild replace front brakes day. I replaced the front right caliper with a in very good condition used replacement ( stripped out the head on a frozen brake pad pin) and kept the original left caliper. I rebuilt both front calipers with a kit from Cyclemax,

Question one I have two tiny O-rings that are left over and I am at a loss as to where they go I couldn't fine them in my shop manual.

Second I inadvertently drained the foot break reservoir applying a vacuum so I refilled it and proceeded to draw a vacuum via electric vacuum pump through the bleeder screw. I am sucking air and not dropping the level of the reservoir. Pumping the foot peddle has no effect ether. I followed the guide posted in the How to articles for 1500's even though its for the rear its pretty close to what you do up front,

So guys what are the o rings for and what am I doing wrong? As usual thanks in advance for everyone's help.
Stan.

[bluthundr31]

Try the "reverse-fill" method to get brake fluid into the line to remove the air. You attach a "medical syringe" (large volume) to a clear hose and with the bleeder open, shove fluid from the syringe into the caliper until you see it coming into the reservoir. The front left brake caliper and the rear brake caliper BOTH fill the reservoir thats located below and behind the battery. Don't let the syringe get empty without closing the bleeder valve (or you can use speed-bleeders). Bleed the line to the front left caliper first, then bleed the rear line, , you should have a strong "pedal" after the rear line is bled properly.

[Stantheman55]

bluthundr31

Thank you for your response. I am aware of doing this reverse procedure as I have done it a couple times in the past on My FJ 1100. I guess I was to tired last night and the synapses weren't firing because I had not even thought to try this nor did I remember that I had to deal with the rear bleeder screw as well. Ill give it a shot, thanks
Stan.
P.S. Any thoughts on what the two tiny o rings are for that came in the rebuild kit? They can't be but 1/4 inch in Dia if that. They look to be as big around as the threads on a bleeder screw.

[bluthundr31]

Once the lines are bled and the air is evacuated, you should have a good solid "pedal" again. I am not recalling any O-rings on my rebuild, but the 1/4" ID smacks of a bleeder valve thread. If you have good brakes without replacing the O-rings, set the new ones aside for future use. I don't know where else the O-rings would fit other than the bleeder valves.

[Snowmoer]

I don't remember any O rings either. The kit could be used on another bike that needs the O rings. I have had other rebuild kits that came with extra parts.

Not sure why you are sucking air unless there is a fitting not tight somewhere. When I did my brakes, I rebuilt everything from the master cylinder to the caliper. Added stainless lines also. I just used my Mity Vac at the caliper like I have done for years and it removed the air like it should.

[bellboy40]

You could be sucking air in from the bleeder valve by the threads. You might try putting some grease on the threads of the bleeder and see if that helps. Otherwise, I would go with the reverse bleeding as suggested.

[CrystalPistol]

I recall some old hoses in a junk box that have banjo fittings, the bolt, and a small O-ring on bolt threads side of fitting.

Can you get someone to operate the foot pedal while bleeding, like 3 slow pumps, hold it down, open bleeder, repeat, check level, repeat again until clear fluid.

[CWN]

I've lost my pedal 3 times over the years, bleeding the rear worked the first time, 2nd time the left front, 3rd time in progress.