"My" Homemade Shifter Brace

Renovator · Post by **Renovator** » Tue Feb 04, 2020 2:22 pm

Hello all fellow Riders,
If I do this correctly.....I'll explain just how I took a previous Idea of a fellow "Tinkerer" to creating "My" version. Here in Canada today....the beautiful, aluminum, Shifter Brace that is available on line is in the range of $125 US. Add the exchange...and shipping....and its getting a "tad" bit expensive......so....I had the means and parts to build one myself and it took 'perhaps" half a day to fabricate and build and install....complete with little "tweeks"

First thing....I acquired a used Shifter lever on-line ($5 bucks I think)

: I simply cut off the end of the stock shifter Rod to about 1/2" stub.

: Different view

: Here I picked up a 1/2' pipe nipple from hardware store and cut out a solid section (no threads) to just "slightly' longer than shaft cut down on stock shifter leaver.

: With a little filing inside....it fits rather snug over shaft.

: Next....I took a Plumbers connector (for hanging plumbing from thread-rod) and ground down one side to fit the Pipe nipple tube. Reason for this>>> the Pivot point of the brace has to be very close to mounting bolt in order to maintain balanced movement from stock shifter to brace. *Note*>>> look at the Aluminum Brace and you'll see what I mean.

: I then welded the pipe tube onto the Hex spacer. This spacer also fits over the bolt that comew with my running board hardware.

: Different view...

: Another...

: Here...I cut the "difference" off of the spacer that came with Running board kit to maintain the same length when using the brace holder.

: View of stock spacer.

To be continued...next post.

Renovator · Post by **Renovator** » Tue Feb 04, 2020 2:33 pm

Here's more on the brace.....

: I didn't have the means to incorporate some Brass but with the miniman movement...I figured Grease (and the occational oiling) should suffice.

: First attempt at fitting in place.

: Fits...and moves freely . Note the spacer combined with the brace spacer still equals the same length.

: I had to "grind" the "arch" on the shifter arm so it would fit "tight" to the Octagon spacer (trial fitting)

: Much tighter fit...

: So far...so good.

: Fits !!

: Ah-yes....now for cutting the guard sleeve off to fit around shifter (the same applies for the bought on-line unit)

: First cutting try....

: Fine tuned finally !!

continued .....

Renovator · Post by **Renovator** » Tue Feb 04, 2020 2:41 pm

Here's the last Pics of the Brace. Unfortunately .....I have about 3 more months of Winter here in Alberta Ca. before I get to enjoy the fruits of my labor.

I hope the Pics give enough detail so as to express just how I did this. Enjoy !!

: Everything seems to "clear" alright...

: Running board "and" Heal - Toe shifter linkage installed...

: another view...

: Yup !!

: Looking "down" from the top. The Heal-Toe shifter works nicely and after setting everything.....it feels real nice.

I also changed out the Shifter lever seal as it was leaking a bit (143000 km) . I was in there anyways.....

Now....."Bring on Spring" !!!!!!!!!!! I forgot to mention.....I had to drill out the "splines" of the old shifter so it would slide over "my" shifter lever. Also had to grind down the clamp bolt so it would still work and still allow it to slide over....

Renovator

CrystalPistol · Post by **CrystalPistol** » Tue Feb 04, 2020 8:28 pm

Nice, you'll like it. I can tell what you did but only because I bought a second OEM lever to do same, but I have a scratch made one in place works well. Add-On "High-Boys" maybe ? Did you chrome the lower covers or buy like that?

CrystalPistol · Post by **CrystalPistol** » Tue Feb 04, 2020 8:31 pm

OK, I see now, I just caught the "last" posting. NICE!

I bought extra OEM lever to make a better one (like your's) than that which I have that was made from scrap using dimensions derived, my pivot is a 1/4" hardened steel smooth shaft in a 1/2" wide, 1/4" ID, 3/8" OD brass bushing housed inside a nut drilled to 3/8" welded to one of the spacers for my low boy floor boards. Works so well as is. I re-made my shifter too, no H&T, because of room offered by Low Boys, just a little longer toe shift I use with a heel rest I added just like one over on right side that goes with brake pedal.

CrystalPistol · Post by **CrystalPistol** » Tue Feb 04, 2020 8:59 pm

Looking good so far!

Renovator · Post by **Renovator** » Tue Feb 04, 2020 11:37 pm

That looks kinda Cool what you have done there

Renovator · Post by **Renovator** » Tue Feb 04, 2020 11:41 pm

The Bike came "as is' my Friend. About all I have done to it , besides the brace, is add an Amp in one saddle-bag for stereo boost. It also came with , what I call "Hub-caps", on the front Rotor-covers...that I had to take off and change. The "weight and vibrations from wind always seemed to "crack" the holding brackets for the covers.There solid crome steel.
You can see them here >>>>>

Renovator · Post by **Renovator** » Tue Feb 04, 2020 11:44 pm

Im considering trying to come up with a "lighter' version of the "Hub-caps"......perhaps Aluminum or thin guage steel.

CrystalPistol · Post by **CrystalPistol** » Wed Feb 05, 2020 12:33 am

Renovator wrote: ↑Tue Feb 04, 2020 11:37 pm That looks kinda Cool what you have done there

Thank you Sir!

Back about 15 years ago, my left knee was giving me fits. I bought the Add-On "Low Boy" floorboard kit, to replace pegs. It required a included heel & toe shifter with linkage like I saw in your pics. These FBs are a little lower than yours, I liked the heel rest on the right side with brake, so I put one on shift side and use it to rest heel on when shifting now. I made the shift (built / welded off the steel hub that came with the FB kit to which linkage runs) toe tab to accept the stock shift rubber, I can adjust it for thicker winter boots. I don't have to use the heel rest (I can elevate my toe enough with heel on FB) ... but it helps, kinda like resting the heel on the peg when shifting stock. The rest itself was made from a toe that matched, I cut it from the right side brake pedal (and I put a different pedal on that brake pedal arm. With heel rests on both sides, I have three positions for my feet, heel rest hanging toes down, flat on the low FBs, and on boards on engine bars. It's a trike, so FBs never drag. Under that weld is a piece of 3/8" steel I fitted in place too, I can and do stand on those heel rest as desired. You can see the "notch" left in bracket after I removed top part of mount for H&T shift rocker. Polished & clear coated cuts look like chrome unless you get down on knees to look.

Again, I like what you did. I might make one (shift brace) from that OEM shaft I have laying on my bench in that big cookie tin of odds & ends … for a buddy with a '96 ... as a surprise.
It is simple really, as you know, but so effective.

Renovator · Post by **Renovator** » Wed Feb 05, 2020 1:08 am

Again...."Pretty Cool"

I did some "Mods" with my floor-boards being where they were. Had mine been "lower" as you have stated that yours are I might not have ...although it still makes room for when I use the highway-pegs/rest's . The "Heel" rest you show "was" on my bike...on the right side...but I cut it off. It bugged me being there pushing up against my ankle. I still put my heel up there for using the Rear brakes though. Also (as you can see in the pic) I cut off the curved ends of the Engine guards so my legs fit better for Highway Pegs. That....and because my floor boards are higher than yours (im guessing)....my Toes always seemed to get "snagged" under them...making me NOT feel comfortable.

It all works for me now

CrystalPistol · Post by **CrystalPistol** » Wed Feb 05, 2020 1:55 am

Pretty bike, some body sure lavished the chrome on it. Those chrome lowers are all aftermarket, but look great. Like the chrome edging too.

Your floor boards are the "high boy" version, mine are "low boy" version for sure, see how my brackets drop from that front bolt, yours are pretty much level. I'm guessing maybe 2" difference, if a bike I'd rather have the higher ones so no dragging, but I decided on lower ones to let me straighten that knee.

I had never seen those chrome wheel covers, reminded me of "Moon Eyes" aluminum disc used by hot rodders in '50s & early '60s. Been into Gold Wings since '95 myself, just never seen them?

Mine as a bike in '97.

Renovator · Post by **Renovator** » Wed Feb 05, 2020 10:05 am

You have a Beautiful Bike there !! Have to "Love' the Red color though !!! It's always a head turner. I did not know that there were 2 different styles of Floor-boards.

Makes sense that yours would be lowered....given the "Trike" Mod. Like you say....not so good as a "Bike" perhaps.

As for the Chrome on mine ...like I said....came with the bike. Most of it I've seen available on line....but perhaps not all

I was told by the PO that those "Hub-caps" were quite Rare.....and hard to come by...and that If I didn't want them any longer...He had a buyer. Still on the Fence with them. One or Two of the "Tangs" that mount them to the "Rotor-covers" has broken due to vibrations and the weight of them with the only "proper" fix being "welding"...which means a Re-Chroming to do it right. Again...on the Fence right now. They "do" look quite Cool on there though.
Because they are mounted on the covers....I went on-line and picked up the "newer" style of Rotor-covers...and managed to "score" the "Bug-Front" for it at a Garage sale a couple years back. The PO also pulled a trailer so He installed a "electric Brake controller" in Trunk as well as a "12-stack" CD player....to which I later installed an Amp to "boost" things a bit.
I didn't like the Progressives in the front forks so found a very good set of "stock" forks and changed them when I did the "steering bearings". WAY less Choppy ride !!!
I've only had the Wing since 2017 and before that a beautiful 2005 Kawasaki Nomad 1600. I have, however, had my Bike licence since I was 14 and have had a few different bikes when younger.

CrystalPistol · Post by **CrystalPistol** » Wed Feb 05, 2020 10:36 am

Just throwing this out there …

Red is the fastest color, ask Enzo.

If those front wheel covers were rare then, they are super rare now, will be unobtainium in the future. If they look great (I couldn't make them out in any pics I looked at), with the other chrome, if you let them get away, they are forever gone. If fixed, they should balance OK using beads in the tire or ???

Renovator · Post by **Renovator** » Wed Feb 05, 2020 11:48 am

The Hub-caps are mounted to the Rotor covers my friend. They only fit "very close" to the Rim of the front tire. They are made of steel and weight a little bit. The PO even told me to have a couple sets of Rotor cover mounts handy as they "will" crack and break over time...and he was correct.This is a picture of the Braces Im referring to...

Renovator · Post by **Renovator** » Wed Feb 05, 2020 11:50 am

This is the only Pic I have on the computer , at the moment, that shows the "Hub-caps". You'll just have to "Zoom-in" on them.Its too bad that the Rotor covers weren't made of metal themselves as things would be much more solid all around. I'll get some more later for you

CrystalPistol · Post by **CrystalPistol** » Wed Feb 05, 2020 2:08 pm

Well, that certainly explains their rarity. Those brackets are OEM, meant just to hold stock covers on, I can see them cracking with steel hanging on.

Your brakes will thank you.

I think these are your floor boards … Add-On Floorboards #88597.

Renovator · Post by **Renovator** » Wed Feb 05, 2020 3:01 pm

Yuppers....those look like mine.

Here's the Pics of my Hub caps>>>>

: Tried to fix without welding and destroying chrome.

: Not crazy about just how they are to be mounted......

Corkster52 · Post by **Corkster52** » Fri Sep 11, 2020 8:49 am

Wow! Those hub caps look great!