Turn signals misbehaving!

[Elmobile]

Well just got my carbs slides working the way they are supposed to.
So before to put everything back together, I decided to check my lights and so on...
I had some intermittent problem with my turn signal and now it seems to be there for good.
The 4 way flasher was staying stuck so I decided to open the handle (2 screws only) and spray some contact cleaner on both set of switches.
The flashers were working, going on and off nice. It also confirmed that the signal lights are all working.
Went back to the shop this working and the flashers are back as it was, getting stuck. I sprayed the inside with contact cleaner again and it did free it up... Sounds like I need to take it apart and do a proper cleaning!

The turn signal are also behaving erratically. When you push the lever, either way makes no differences, nothing much happen. Sometime if you hold it long enough you can hear the relay trying to stick and it makes a buzzing noise while the lights blink rapidly...

Question:
Is there a way to determine if the switches/detents in the handle are working or if it is coming from cancel unit itself?
I found this "How to" in another forum, to bypass the TSCC unit. Would this be applicable to my 1990 SE? I am old school and could easily live without it Post #10: https://www.goldwingfacts.com/threads/g ... rn.361762/
If I need to open the handle deeper then it is now, how can I remove the choke cable at the handle end. Does the air box has to come completely off to get to the cable clamp and get enough cable slack on the carb end of it?

Cheers.

[Elmobile]

Disregard the question about freeing the choke cable. I did figure it out. That is were the comment on step #2 of this post viewtopic.php?f=14&t=18412
becomes handy. It gives more room to dislodge the choke lever from the groove in the comodo... then the head of the cable comes out real easy

Now into surgery feel like. I started with flasher switch. I should be able to post some pictures later on...

[Elmobile]

Sooo everything is back (4 way flasher) together and appears to work as it should. Clearly the old grease (30 years old) was the guilty one. Very, very sticky. Not a chance with the cold temperature that the switch would work. I took a bunch of pictures to detail the in and out of the switch and how to put it back together... Will do a write up later on!
Tomorrow I get into the turn signal unit. The all thing was almost working today... So I'll start with a good clean-up first and see what will happen before getting into any mods...
Stay safe,
Cheers!

[Zman457]

Glad to hear it's coming around for you. On my 96SE the hazards are only blinking on the left side. I will need to tear the switch apart to try and clean it up as well.

[Snowmoer]

Honda used the same Dialectic grease in the turn signal switch as they did in the flasher switch. When you take the turn signal switch apart, go slow and be careful. There is a small spring and BB in there that can fall out. Clean out all the old grease and contacts. Put some new Dialectic grease in there and put back together. The switch will be smooth as glass.

While you are at it, you might as well do the same thing to your cruse control on/off switches. They will start sticking like the flasher switch. The speed up and down switches are not the same. They just need the electronic contact cleaner. There is not any grease in those.

[Elmobile]

Thank you for the advice. I will for sure!
I am about to put the turn signal switches back together. They are all cleaned and greased.
Let you know if it solved my issues or not. After seeing what it was like, I am very optimistic that it will. What a sticky mess it was

Again I took a bunch of detail pictures and will do a little write up with them...
Cheers!

[Elmobile]

All is good !!!
Switches for the turn signal are back together and work as they should... So is the ON/OFF switch for the cruise control, and yes, it was sticking...
Plenty of pictures. I'll get started on my write up over the week end.
To be honest it was not that bad, the clean-up that is because the switches themselves were indeed in bad shape. Should be good for another 30 years...

[Fiberthree]

To bad you didn't check the How-To Articles first.

viewtopic.php?f=14&t=32453

This one addresses the problem and shows you the inside of the switch. Be sure to disassemble it in a big clear baggie first to avoid losing any springs.

[Elmobile]

Thank you for pointing this post to me, Fiberthree...
I DID checked the "How To Articles" but I will have to admit that I missed it.
Also the switch presented in this article is the 4 way flashers switch. It would be applicable as well to the cruise control ON/OFF switch.
However the one for the signal lights is a completely different beast I may still do a little write up...

This being said, I went back last night to close everything up. I decided to check the signal lights once again... Bummer, I am back with the initial problem . I do believe that I have an electrical issue rather than a mechanical one with the switch. Probably with the unit in the steering column part of the cancel unit... I am going to take it out of there and check the connector for a poor connection?
Would any one knows how to check the "rheostat" itself. Not sure it is the proper way call it but that what it looks to be.
Looks like I need more help!
Thanks.

[Fiberthree]

If you have a Honda shop manual you should consult that first. There are components in the cancel unit that don't take kindly to being probed with multimeters. (don't ask how I know.) It isn't easy replacing those as they don't have a lot of slack wiring to them. You still could have a contact problem with the turn signal switch. I found one of the copper wipers in my switch that had a groove worn through and was only making intermittent contact. Looking forward to your photos and write-up.

[Elmobile]

Thanks for the warning Fiberthree, I will proceed with caution.
I will double check my pictures for abnormal wears on the contacts...
One of my issue is that I have a 1990 bike and a 1994 service manual. I know for a fact that there is differences between the 2 when it comes to electrical circuit... Starting with something as basic as the position of the fuse for the signal turns!
Got my computer back into running after freezing up on me
Going out for some yard work and then get close and personal with my GL

[ct1500]

There really are no moving parts in the system to wear out except the switch. The copper needs to be scraped or roughed up and shiny new with firm contact points for good connections. At the main in of switch take some voltage readings to confirm full battery voltage (within wiring loss reason) is present.

[Elmobile]

Did some probing this pm.
Getting somewhat frustrated as it does not make much sense to me...
First check was ground, inside the switch and that is definitely good.
I also check for voltage on the 3 prongs (Circled in Red on the picture below) that the lever makes contact with when you move right, left or pushed.
I am getting 2.3 or 2.4 volts. To me it should be 0 or close to 12.4 (battery voltage checked good).
Also I check for continuity between the outside plate and the hub for the lever (2 green dots on the picture below) and I get an open circuit! When I look how it is built I cannot see why it is?
The picture below was taken when I was cleaning the unit. Right now I simply remove the thumb lever only...

Would anyone help me make any sense of those findings?

[Elmobile]

Did more checking. I was checking the center hub without the screw in it. Once I put everything back together I do have continuity. Good ground between the 3 prongs on the lever itself and ground... BUT still no signal light...
Still getting 2.3/2.4 volt...were indicated...

Thanks.

[ct1500]

I looked at an abbreviated diagram and the readings you are getting are probably correct. Power is split off of turn flasher and canceller in stem. Follow the manual for no turn signals. It has you start at canceller then swapping turn relay with hazard relay. Start with the flasher relays under trunk, much easier to get to than canceller. You have LED or incandescent?

[Elmobile]

I do have incandescent bulbs. They are all working when I put the 4 ways flasher on.
I will go and check the connector in the stem. After cleaning up the turn signal switches, they were working perfectly. I played with them a few time and I could hear the relay picking up right away... Next morning, I wanted to get the bike ready for a test run (Carbs) but no nothing, After fiddling with it, the right side came up but would not hold and then stopped all together. Now absolutely nothing... The only thing that was moved, was the handle bar. Very frustrating to say the least...
I check the connector in the stem tomorrow. I may strike lucky.
Cheers,

[Elmobile]

I am going to keep my fingers cross for a while yet but my signal lights are working!
I suppose when everything fails... Follow the instruction...

Both of my fans are still out so I do have an easy access to the connectors above them.
I first cleaned 6P-BRN which has to do with the self cancelling unit. I spray some contact cleaner and blow it dry. I completely removed all of the dried out grease. I will repack it when I do my final closing. No change.
Second I cleaned 6P-WHT which connect to the self cancelling unit in the stem. Was looking good to start with but I still spray it with contact cleaner. Still no change.
Thirdly, went to 6P-GRN which connect to the signal switches. Same deal as with the first connector, removed the old dielectric grease... Eureka, that did it!!!

I think I am going to do all of those connectors, on both side. Removed the old grease and repack them before putting the fans back on.
Any reasons why I should not do that? Could I create more problems? Think not, work for 6P-GRN.

Cheers.

[Fiberthree]

Good to hear that you got them working!

[Elmobile]

Thank you for the kind words.
Today I put the fans back on. The left one was really a PITA if you ask me. The right one went in fairly easy.
I cranked the engine and let it warm up until the fans kick in to make sure all was good. Idle stayed steady the all time and the engine picked up nice every time I opened the throttle while returning to idle at about 800 rpms.
So that is a relief for sure.
Tomorrow I will close up the right side so that I can put the side car back on. I want to take it for a run again to make sure all is well on the road.
While all the tupperware is out I did some more electrical clean up. I do a separate post regarding the fader.
Thanks to all of you who help me during this ordeal...