Cam belts?

[Sassy]

Any input, do these look normal
for 90,000 klms?

[DenverWinger]

Bike might have sat long enough at one point for some rust to form on the idlers, but overall pretty normal.

If the idler bearings spin nice, I'd just clean up the surface the belts run on and put 'em back in. (the idlers, not the belts)

[Sassy]

Pic doesn't show clear enough the dark spots on the idlers is rubber,, i think, never scraped any off. Will do that.
the bike has 188,000 k the idlers have NTN 60-2 stamped on them,, do you believe them to be original? They spin free no resistance tiny bit of play
and make a tiny bit of noise when I spin them, was considering replacing?
Fred

[newday777]

The belts need replacement because of age.
The idlers is your call if the bearings feel smooth. Otherwise replace them.

[WingAdmin]

Time to change those belts. Read through this to find out why (and how to do it): viewtopic.php?f=14&t=9774

[Sassy]

Thanks WingAdmin, yes I'm using your tutorial to wonder through this maze!! Lol
I have belts, bought Gates T275s.
As pictured I have the old ones out and was concerned about the ware pattern them as well as the bearings in the idlers. They are probably original and they sound dry when spun so I'll be ordering a pair.
The bearings in the idler are probably some basic 6203 or similar 10 bucks apiece at most but they don't look to be coming out, but I may try before I order idlers from Honda.
Fred

[FM-USA]

Belts are showing an idler is hanging up, might have one ball in a bearing going. They'll still spin & sound good until pressure loaded.
As a check you can pop off a bearing seal, they'll pop back on. I use a thin ALMOST to sharp, sharpened nail.
You might find particles flowing out using brake cleaner.
JUST for reference, my 1991 Wing, idler bearings lasted 220K miles. I ride all year (N. ILL)
.
ALMOST forgot. These days parts are made cheap & made FAST.
I suggest to check for bearing grease in those new bearings B4 installing.

.

.

[Sassy]

Thanks FM!
Was thinking of checking into what's under that cap.
On the morrow.
Fred

[bellboy40]

If you want to have a go at replacing the bearing in those idlers, here are some links that go into detail about part numbers and how to do it.

https://tinyurl.com/y9jksy92

How to Rebuild Timing Belt Idlers

https://tinyurl.com/yd4rv88t

[Sassy]

Thanks for the info!
Gonna take a look through it for sure.
Fred

[Sassy]

Thanks for the info!
Gonna take a look through it for sure.
Fred

[Sassy]

Spose I could quote the repeat post just to highlight my mistake,,,,,
Anyway after reading through the idler mods I decided to order new for a couple reasons one the price difference wasnt worth the effort for me.
And also the mod replacement for the stock is much heavier and getting the tension right was my concern because of drag on the belt. Parts should be here in a week,,, not that there is any hurry this time of year.
Thankyou to all for your input!!!
Fred

[Sassy]

Just a quick note to close
The new idlers do have little drag in them from the grease and seals and don't have any play. The old ones spun free and had a tiny bit play so happy I changed them. Although, I broke an old one apart just to see and grease was good a bearing surfaces looked good so probably would would have went many more miles.
Thanks for the tutorial, great guide!
I didn't drain the cooling system or pull the plugs and it still went easy.
Fred

[WingAdmin]

It's highly recommended that you remove the plugs for this job. Otherwise, when you turn the engine over by hand after the new belt installation, you can't tell if the resistance you feel is due to compression, or due to incorrect belt position causing a piston to press up against a valve.