Break lights amp draw

[BENJEE2112]

Hi Wingers. I have been Noticing a significant draw down when I grab the breaks at stop lights. I cleaned the contacts at the front handle break. I can hear and see the switch clicking on and off when I grab it. Found out the Foot peddle wasn't working at all. I just Tightened up the cable to fix that. It's drawing down on both breaks. Handle and Peddle. Any suggestions How to trace it? all light bulbs are working. It could be anywhere in the spider web of cluster f wires. I kinda have to use the breaks now and then. lol, But now I'm worried about shorting out the new Alternator. I'd rather something NOT be working than Everything working but a draw somewhere. Fuses must all be good because it's all working. When I grab the break It draws down. But then it (rpms) catches back up to it.
Happy New Year. Good Reddens 2020

[MikeB]

It sounds all pretty normal to me about the current draw. The only way I know of to help decrease the load is to replace the brake light bulbs with LED bulbs.

[WingAdmin]

Each brake light bulb draws 27 watts, or about 2 amps. It can add up, particularly if you have multiple brake lights.

[Swagonmaster]

I guess we could ask what do you mean by "draw down", is that the lights getting dimmer, the engine slowing down or what?

[CrystalPistol]

It's not a problem, as any designed in draw is taken care of before you get in 4th gear after the stop light turns green. Each brake light bulb will use about 27 watts which is pretty near to 2 amps, volts x amps = watts ... or watts / volts = amps. You have like 6 of them, so there's 12 amps not counting the other steady draws like running lights, stereo, engine ignition, gages, heated vest, head lights, position lights, signals, etc. A 55 watt headlight is pulling near 5 amps minimum. Dual beam headlights have two, so there's 9-10 amps. You notice it at idle because alternator output is at it's lowest. Maybe your battery is loosing reserve capacity?

[BENJEE2112]

Thanks Guys. When I got the bike from Happs cycles in Sarasota. 4 years ago. The trunk (LID WING) light bar came on with the brake an the different turn signals. They did some work to it Then all the sudden it didnt light up at all. I told them about it. He wired them to stay on all the time as running lights. (SEE NIGHT TIME PIC BELOW) Then they would turn off when I hit the breaks. last year. I tied them in to the brake lights like they are supposed to be. Am I correct that they are meant to be brake lights. Not running lights?

[Swagonmaster]

Yes they are brake lights and are led's that must be run by the converter box under the left saddlebag. I recently hooked up a drive on brake flasher module and had to learn that the difficult way. (no I didn't burn them up but I was afraid that I had).

[BENJEE2112]

Thanks Swagonmaster. Does yours work with your turn signals too? like... starts in the middle then lights up to that direction? I think I may have to get a converter box. I have never seen a converter anywhere. No boxes in my saddle bags. I think I'm going to cut the wires to that and see about that draw. Need to do some exploratory surgery.
The DRAW DOWN is in the RPM's

[Swagonmaster]

They are brake lights only. (or as you saw can be wired as tail lights although that is not how they came OE) The converter comes factory and it's under the saddlebag, you need to remove the bag to see it. All of the bulbs are wired together so they can't be used with the turn signals.
The voltage converter is needed since led's don't run off 12 volts but more like 2 volts. Since the light bar sits high on the bike I thought it would be a good idea to have them flash when the brakes are applied, especially since the flasher unit was on the bike when I bought it but not hooked up.

[Swagonmaster]

Ok, I am going to have to eat crow on my last post, I see in the wiring diagram that the lights in the trunk SHOULD be for the tail lights as well as the brake lights. Again this is handled by the trunk light controler. (ugh, this crow needs salt)