GL 1500 difficult to start?


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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waynedudes
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Location: Richmond, KY
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 with CSC Trike conversion

GL 1500 difficult to start?

Post by waynedudes »



I have a 94 Gl 1500 SE Trike. The longer it sits, especially during the Winter, it takes longer to get it to start. Seems like the fuel has drained back into the tank? If this is the case, is there a filter, or other device I can add to the fuel line? To prevent the fuel from draining back to the gas tank. Or an electric fuel pump? Thanks in advance.



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AZgl1800
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Re: GL 1500 difficult to start?

Post by AZgl1800 »

you need to get a 330CCA AGM battery, and put a Battery Tender Jr. on the battery over the winter months.

for the gas, I highly recommend and use Sta-Bil 360 marine treatment.

I put it in everything that runs on gasolene and sits all winter.

the lawnmower and auxiliary generator start on the first crank.

https://www.goldeagle.com/product/sta-bil-360-marine/

$72 bux and free shipping for 350 CCA with this one, have bought 3 or 4 batteries from this outfit and all of them are still doing the job, some over 5 years old.

https://www.batterymart.com/p-ytx24hl-b ... ttery.html
~John

'02 GL1800
2009 Piaggio MP3 250cc

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DenverWinger
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Re: GL 1500 difficult to start?

Post by DenverWinger »

Try working the throttle a few times before hitting the starter. If there's any fuel in the carb bowls the accelerator pump will help "prime" the engine.
♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫ :(
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WingAdmin
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Re: GL 1500 difficult to start?

Post by WingAdmin »

The carburetors are vented. So when the bike sits, fuel left sitting in the carburetor float bowls evaporate.

When you go to start it, it doesn't start because there's no fuel in the carburetors - so no fuel getting to the engine.

It can take 10-20 seconds of cranking for the fuel pump to pump enough fuel into the float bowls of the carburetors for the carburetors to then start spraying fuel into the engine.

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waynedudes
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Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 with CSC Trike conversion

Re: GL 1500 difficult to start?

Post by waynedudes »

I have a 350 CCA AGM battery. No problem with cranking over the engine. I also charge the battery, every couple of weeks during the Winter. So turning over the engine is no problem.
I understand about fuel taking time to get to carb.
Guess I will just have to start it every couple of weeks during the Winter.

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4given
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Re: GL 1500 difficult to start?

Post by 4given »

I let mine run out of fuel after my last ride and winter prep. Then before my first start in the spring I pull the carb side of the fuel shutoff and fill the carbs through the line with a very small funnel. I never start mine through the winter after I put it away. I do keep the battery on a tender.
“Fight the fight and do what is right“

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WingAdmin
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Re: GL 1500 difficult to start?

Post by WingAdmin »

waynedudes wrote:
Thu Jan 14, 2021 7:00 am
I have a 350 CCA AGM battery. No problem with cranking over the engine. I also charge the battery, every couple of weeks during the Winter. So turning over the engine is no problem.
I understand about fuel taking time to get to carb.
Guess I will just have to start it every couple of weeks during the Winter.
Don't do that! Whenever fuel evaporates, it leaves behind a film of goo and shellac. Repeatedly filling the carbs and letting it evaporate will leave all kinds of stuff in there you don't want to have in there. Plus, it's really bad for the bike itself.

From How to winterize your motorcycle:
Now, what do you do now that the bike is away for its winter slumber? Please, please, PLEASE resist the temptation to "start it up to keep the oil fresh" or whatever other reason you feel you need to regularly run the engine. Your engine does not benefit in any way from being started from dead cold for a short "warm-up." In fact, it's quite the opposite. Starting the engine puts lots of moisture into both the crankcase and the exhaust. If you are not going to go out for a good, hard half hour ride, neither the engine nor the exhaust are going to get up to full normal operating temperature - which means this moisture is not going to evaporate. Instead, it's going to sit in the bike and start corroding the insides of your engine, cylinders and exhaust system. Every time you start it, it is making it worse. The fact that it is cold outside makes it even worse - this means the moisture easily condenses on the cold surfaces, starting the rusting process.

"But I need to start it regularly to charge the battery." No you don't, hook up a $25 Battery Tender instead of ruining your $500 exhaust.

"It helps keep the seals lubricated and stops leaks." No, it doesn't. The seals do not magically lose their ability to seal because oil isn't regularly flowing over them. In fact, the continuous change of a very cold-soaked engine to warm engine and back can actually CAUSE leaks.

"It keeps the engine parts covered in oil to prevent wear." Actually, it does the exact opposite. The absolute hardest time on an engine, the time when it wears the most, is at start-up, before the engine-driven oil pumps get a chance to start pumping oil around. This is why some expensive aircraft and racing engines have special pumps to circulate oil before the engines are started. When the bike hasn't been started for a while, the lubricating film of oil is at its very minimum - which means massive amount of wear during start up. And this is what you are doing, over and over again all winter every time you start it up - causing wear to your engine when it is at its most vulnerable.



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