Electrical Issue

[Amilani89]

Hello. New to the forum. Recently purchased a low mileage 1993 GL1500A and am experiencing some electrical issues that I can’t seem to figure out. When the bike is in neutral all switches, dash lights, and running lights work as they are supposed to. When the bike is shifted out of neutral, the running rear lights turn off and the blinker lights illuminate and stay on dimly. The dash indicators also come on for the blinkers as well and appear dim in comparison to when the blinkers are turned on. Also, when the bike is running and placed in reverse, the reverse motor operates for a moment then cuts off. The relay “B” under the seat clicks repeatedly when placed in reverse then cuts off when the starter button is pushed and the motor operates for a moment. I also haven’t been able to set the cruise control. Could all of these issues be coming from a bad ground? Where do I start troubleshooting? The PO had a rats nest of wiring where he added 3 12v outlets and turned the front fog lights into running lights. I removed everything he did in hopes it would solve my problem but no luck. I also already checked the fuses and relays. I cleaned up the ground near the dipstick as well as the one under the seat. Where are the other grounds located? Anyone else experience anything like this? Thank you!

[MikeB]

Sounds like a ground issue to me. I can't say that all of it is related to one point in particular but check the connector on the left side of the bike under the seat.
Here is a picture of the connector to show its location:

This connector effected my lights so I know it can be a problem.

Here is what the connctions looked like:

There is also a multipoint ground connector, it is orange I think. I've seen pictures of it on this site but I can not find it now. If I find it, I will post it.

I got lucky. I found it here: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=44532
There is a picture of it in the ninth entry on this posting by virgilmobile.

[Amilani89]

I will check those connections in the morning and let you know what I find. Thank you!

[DenverWinger]

Fried grounds is a common result of patching accessories and adding lights to the Bike's wiring harness, which is designed to be just barely adequate for the bike. The wiring harness is not designed for the additional load.

Any accessories should be added to NEW circuits with their own fuse, preferably an accessory fuse block relay-controlled from the Bike ACC terminals, I even have my trailer lighting powered directly from the battery, relay-isolated but controlled by the bike tail light wiring. (Cyclemax plug-n-play trailer lighting isolator kit)

[newday777]

Welcome to the forum Amilani89

Yes the ground is most of your problem. I have also seen the white connectors pins and the orange ground distribution block pins melted from added accessory lights to the stock wiring harness on the 1500s. Also have seen the fuse/relay panel pins melted(remove the panels and inspect the back sides of the panels)
These bikes came with very few lights on the rear and sides that have been added on to with plug and play extenders that have been the death of the stock harness pins especially the ground.

Inspect all the connectors on the bike.
The saddle bag lights as well as the trunk side lights and others were added after the original sale of the bike. Change all the bulbs to LED on the bike after you repair the damage to prevent further damage and reduce draw on the harness and alternator.

[Amilani89]

MikeB
Thank you so much. That solved the problem. It was the same connector as shown in your picture. It wasn’t as burnt as yours but when I bypassed it, my problem went away and my reverse is working again. Thanks for the help fellas! Now I just have to see if the cruise control is working. Will let you know later today.

[newday777]

MikeB
Thank you so much. That solved the problem. It was the same connector as shown in your picture. It wasn’t as burnt as yours but when I bypassed it, my problem went away and my reverse is working again. Thanks for the help fellas! Now I just have to see if the cruise control is working. Will let you know later today.

Inspect all the connectors

[MikeB]

MikeB
Thank you so much. That solved the problem. It was the same connector as shown in your picture. It wasn’t as burnt as yours but when I bypassed it, my problem went away and my reverse is working again. Thanks for the help fellas! Now I just have to see if the cruise control is working. Will let you know later today.

Most welcome.

[Amilani89]

This also fixed the cruise control issue. Everything is back in working order. Thanks again!

[MikeB]

This also fixed the cruise control issue. Everything is back in working order. Thanks again!

So cool. I love good news.

[captdecker]

Glad you found the trouble. Anytime I take a connecter apart I use Dielectric Lube when putting it back together. Helps to keep it a good connection.

[vladimirch]

Hello,
I also checked mentioned connector. Everything is 100% O.K. But my connector C10 is not white. It is green and blue . I have 1995 European spec.
I can see in Elecrical Troubleshooting Manual that C10-WHT=ASP and C10-BLU=SE and C10-YEL=Int. I hope that I have Aspencade SC222700128

[troussos]

Nice advice everyone.

To help avoid such issues like overloading circuit lines, I'd like to install three 'power' blocks on my 1998 GL1500SE that include Ground, Hot B+ and Switched 12v from the main terminal next to the battery to power my added accessories...preferably an isolation block to protect the bike's circuitry. I want to locate a block under each fairing pouch and one in the trunk. My question is: Does anyone know of such a product ...anywhere. I have consulted with various sources and they all say the same thing: "No, man. It's either a common ground block or Hot B+ block. Nothing with all three. Just splice with wire nuts or a quickie splice to an existing power line...maybe use either a red or blue compression splice"
My response is, Why wouldn't someone want dedicated Gnd, B+ and Switched 12v direct to the battery for their accessories?!

Thank you if anyone could provide a tip to locate/source such a power block.

[newday777]

Nice advice everyone.

To help avoid such issues like overloading circuit lines, I'd like to install three 'power' blocks on my 1998 GL1500SE that include Ground, Hot B+ and Switched 12v from the main terminal next to the battery to power my added accessories...preferably an isolation block to protect the bike's circuitry. I want to locate a block under each fairing pouch and one in the trunk. My question is: Does anyone know of such a product ...anywhere. I have consulted with various sources and they all say the same thing: "No, man. It's either a common ground block or Hot B+ block. Nothing with all three. Just splice with wire nuts or a quickie splice to an existing power line...maybe use either a red or blue compression splice"
My response is, Why wouldn't someone want dedicated Gnd, B+ and Switched 12v direct to the battery for their accessories?!

Thank you if anyone could provide a tip to locate/source such a power block.

Show Chrome makes one.
Isolator relay triggered fuse block, switched and full time on, ground lugs.

https://www.cyclemax.com/inc/sdetail/ac ... 129/419224

[newday777]

How it works troussos



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[troussos]

Thank you newday777.

I talked to Gary at Cyclemax earlier today and unless I misunderstood, I thought he said it did not support common ground and switched positive.
Looking at the video, it looks like it will fit the bill. I may need to modify connectivity so accessories can be added easily (ring connectors over a screw and nut)down the road.

[newday777]

Thank you newday777.

I talked to Gary at Cyclemax earlier today and unless I misunderstood, I thought he said it did not support common ground and switched positive.
Looking at the video, it looks like it will fit the bill. I may need to modify connectivity so accessories can be added easily (ring connectors over a screw and nut)down the road.

It eliminates the need of ring connectors as there are screw lugs like on a circuit breaker in a house.

You can also get Wago connectors that have levers to add junction blocks to add more wires on the same circuit. They come in 2-5 wire connectors. You lift the lever to insert the wires in the hole then push down the lever to lock the wire in.

[troussos]

I like how it protects the connections. I'll look into it more thoroughly in the morning.
Thank you VERY much!