Rattle can paint job


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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Roughridercog
Posts: 34
Joined: Thu May 28, 2020 4:40 am
Location: Branson, Missouri
Motorcycle: 1989 Honda Goldwing 1500

Rattle can paint job

Post by Roughridercog »



Met a guy this week whose bike plastics was as faded as Old Ugly (my bike). His 1500 look really good. But this us what amazed me.
He did a rattle can spray job with the plastics still on the bike. He used original color and there was tape everywhere. He would do one section at a time, thin layer. Let it dry and do it again.
I asked him about spray clearcoat and he said he didn't use it.
I believe I would have done clearcoat anyway.

The amazing thing is the paint is smooth and has adhered well. He did say he scrubbed the plastics down very hard with soap and water to get off all wax build up and oil.

I'm almost....tempted.

Your thoughts and suggestions?


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wingdings
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Re: Rattle can paint job

Post by wingdings »

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aholloway17
Posts: 107
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Location: West Haven, CT
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 Interstate

Re: Rattle can paint job

Post by aholloway17 »

I did my bike with a rattle can as well. That said, it is beat to go to a good paint shop and have them scan the color of you paint. It is al but impossible to match the original color to the condition of the paint as it stands today with the original without scanning. Also keep in mind, with a can it will take longer as you will NOT be able to put down as much paint as you would with a gun in a pass. As such, it can be dome and people still do not believe I did mine with a can.

Good Luck!
1994 GL1500 Interstate
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Rednaxs60
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Re: Rattle can paint job

Post by Rednaxs60 »

Lots of good "rattle" can paint jobs out there. Practice and patience is the key, spray can or spray gun. Did my '95 1500 and '85 Limited Edition last year with a spray gun, wanted to learn about paint, had to keep busy.

I would remove any body panel that you would normally remove for maintenance/work. Tape as required, keeping in mind that parts/pieces that you can't tape around very well, remove. Use the red/gray scrubbies from a paint shop, these simulate approximately 350/600 grit sand paper and are very flexible so these get into tight/more difficult spots - work well to scuff up the finish. An alternative is 800/1000 grit wet/dry - use wet. Don't sand hard, only want to remove the clear coat shine. Need to take the shine off the OEM clearcoat for good adhesion. Use DAWN dishsoap when cleaning.

If you have any repairs to be done, do these first - ABS cement and pieces. If there are visible cracks, these need to be addressed or these will show in the new finish your choice. This side panel started the 1500 paint project. Needed to fix the corner:


After:


The issue with doing this repair was that it was shiny and really looked good - Pearl Glacier White. Made the rest of the bike look dull and dingy after some 25 years. Couldn't have this so I painted the bike in its entirety - the snowball effect.

If there are scrapes and such that are through the OEM finish to the ABS plastic, sand these areas smooth, use an adhesion promoter and prime with 1K epoxy primer. If the surface repair is fairly deep, use a finishing filler to level:


The prep work takes the longest time and is the key to a great finish, spray can or otherwise.

I did the switch housings as well. Took the guts out, cleaned. Did some trials to determine what the best way ahead was for painting. Best was a clean housing, apply two coats of 1K epoxy primer, then used SEM Trim Black - matte type finish, or Eastwood Plastic Restorer - matte type finish as well. Would use 2K epoxy primer, but this product has the activator in side the can and once mixed, pot life is only 48 or so hours - use it or lose it scenario. Switch housing before:


Switch housing after:


I noted that spray can nozzles differ significantly. Some are easier to use then others. The amount of finger pressure for some is higher than for others. The higher the finger pressure required, the easier it is to release the nozzle and stop spraying. The downside to this is that we have the tendency to immediately want to start spraying again, and as such, can put a glob of paint in an area that you don't want to. Have to resist this impulse and start the spray pass again.

The spray can nozzle fan pattern is a consideration. The tighter the spray pattern, the easier it is to get the "tiger" striping effect - light/dark strips. The wider the spray can fan pattern the better. An picture of the different nozzles:


Some spray can nozzles are designed to give a vertical or horizontal spray pattern, or something in between. I found the Dupli-Color nozzle to be the most finger friendly.

Emblems should come off easily. Held on with double sided tape.

Timeline is a consideration. I would guestimate that 2 months would be a good estimate, but probably more. I say this because there are other life issues that can get in the way, and supplies and such for your paint project can be an issue. Be cautious with the schedule. A major project such as this can go on longer than expected. My 1500 paint project was about 4 months, but I took everything apart: The Mrs mentioned yesterday that my two major projects, painting of my '95 1500 and painting/engine rebuild of my '85 1200 has been ongoing for almost a year now - still have a good month or so of work to do on the 1200.

Make sure that the paint you are going to use is readily available. Don't want to wait too long for additional paint supplies because of colour and type. Recommended quantities are just that and for those of us who are doing this more than once. I used more paint than recommended, had my share of mistakes and "oops" along the way.

For a budget, give best guess, then double it. If you use it you were prepared, if you don't use it, nice dinner out.

Depending on your work space, now is the time to put together a schedule and look for the painting supplies you need. I did my painting in our double car garage, monopolized it for some time, and painted during the better weather. This is important and improves your ability to get a great finish.

I enjoy looking at a fresh, sparkly paint job. You'll get lots of complements, good for the ego and validates what you did. Anyone makes a negative comment, hopefully it's because you ran that person over, they're too close anyway. :lol:

Doing a fresh paint job on the bike without taking everything apart has one major benefit. You will not find the repairs, cracks and such that you would want to address, and there will be these after some 30 odd years. Reduces the snowball effect.

Painting is the quick part of the process. Prepping the work for the paint takes the longest time. I'd estimate a 3:1 work/paint ratio.

Just a few thoughts on the process.

Good luck.
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest
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marks146
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Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 Aspencade
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1978 CB750K (sold 1985)
1975 CB500T (sold 1978)

Re: Rattle can paint job

Post by marks146 »

I did a spray job on the lowers, exhaust shielding, front cover and grill. They came out way better than I anticipated. I think the secret was using 2K epoxy clear coat. I used Dupli-Color primer and universal black. Then I put 3 or 4 top coats of the two part epoxy clearcoat. After wet sanding and buffing the smoothness and shine are outstanding. I wouldn't be afraid to paint the whole bike using this recipe. You're only doing a small panel at one time. Well, actually I had all the parts hanging from the rafters while I was spraying them at once.

Wet sanding removed any orange peel and left behind a super smooth surface to buff to a shine.

The rag under the bike is because I have an extremely small coolant leak I'm trying to chase down.


-- Mark

1994 GL1500 Aspencade, 2013 Suzuki C50T
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Rednaxs60
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2008 GL1800 (sold)
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Re: Rattle can paint job

Post by Rednaxs60 »

Did a very nice job. Congrats.
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest
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WingAdmin
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Re: Rattle can paint job

Post by WingAdmin »

marks146 wrote: Sun Feb 14, 2021 6:35 pm The rag under the bike is because I have an extremely small coolant leak I'm trying to chase down.
If the bike is in a cold garage, then wait until it gets warm again. Chances are the coolant leak will fix itself. It's not uncommon for these bikes to spring tiny coolant leaks when the weather gets really cold. Old spring clamps combined with aging, hardening rubber coolant hoses and cold weather add up to less-than-perfect sealing.
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marks146
Posts: 32
Joined: Wed Aug 05, 2020 10:10 pm
Location: Northeast Pa.
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 Aspencade
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2003 GL1800 (sold 2012)
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1997 Kawasaki 1500 (sold 2004)
1978 CB750K (sold 1985)
1975 CB500T (sold 1978)

Re: Rattle can paint job

Post by marks146 »

WingAdmin wrote: Mon Feb 15, 2021 12:41 pm
marks146 wrote: Sun Feb 14, 2021 6:35 pm The rag under the bike is because I have an extremely small coolant leak I'm trying to chase down.
If the bike is in a cold garage, then wait until it gets warm again. Chances are the coolant leak will fix itself. It's not uncommon for these bikes to spring tiny coolant leaks when the weather gets really cold. Old spring clamps combined with aging, hardening rubber coolant hoses and cold weather add up to less-than-perfect sealing.
Oh, it's cold. It hasn't warmed past 22 degrees in weeks, and has been as low at 5 below. The drips come and go. I'll wait to see what happens when it stays above freezing. Another 4 to 6 weeks. I had no issues prior to the winter. I ordered some "O" rings just in case the pipes are the culprit and I get the inspiration to change them. :)
-- Mark

1994 GL1500 Aspencade, 2013 Suzuki C50T
Solo So Long
Posts: 358
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Motorcycle: 1999 GL1500 50th Anniversary SE
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A pack of Super Cubs
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Re: Rattle can paint job

Post by Solo So Long »

Can anyone suggest a good rattle-can match for the Candy Wineberry on my '89?

The paint is mostly good, but one of the saddlebox doors is sunburned and the clearcoat is really ratty.
tnt9339
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1983 GL650 Interstate
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Re: Rattle can paint job

Post by tnt9339 »

Wineberry is a three stage color. The basecoat is gold, mid coat is the candy, followed by the clear. ColorRite sells all three in aerosol cans. Around $30.00 a can. May be more. It has been a few years since I purchased any. If you go this route, spray about 12" from your part and don't move too slow. It is easy to run as the material is very thin. Color match is very good. I used it to paint a saddlebag door and was very happy with the results.

Tony
Solo So Long
Posts: 358
Joined: Thu Mar 26, 2020 4:07 pm
Location: Northern Nevada
Motorcycle: 1999 GL1500 50th Anniversary SE
1989 GL1500 FOR SALE
1983 GL1100 Interstate (ready to repair)
A pack of Super Cubs
Formerly (in order):
Honda Super Cub (bought 1968, sold ?)
Kawasaki Coyote (early 1970s)
Honda 350 (mid 1970s)
Kawasaki KZ900-PS (1977)
Honda Super Cubs (various years)
Kawasaki KZ1000C (1978)
Kawasaki KZ1000P (various years, 1980 - 2005)
Honda 360 (1983)
BMW R1150RT-P (2001)
BMW R1200RT-P (various years 2007 - 2018, NEVER AGAIN)

Re: Rattle can paint job

Post by Solo So Long »

Thanks!

I didn't know it was gold under the red.
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Corkster52
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Re: Rattle can paint job

Post by Corkster52 »

Mine bike is Honda R176 Candy Spectra Red and takes an 1121 base (all ColorRite rattle-can) that is somewhere between gray and silver. Putting on the base is easy. No matter how many coats, (as long as completely covered over plastic) thick or thin, it still looks the same. Getting the right shade of red is the challenge as each coat continues to make it darker. I, by no means, get it right every time (it's more like seldom ;)). As mentioned earlier, practice helps considerably. Then I put on, at least two UCA-150 High Gloss Clear coats.


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