Wheels are coming off...what all to check for


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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moore5623gl1500
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Joined: Sun Mar 21, 2021 9:24 pm
Location: halls,tn
Motorcycle: 1990 gl1500 se

Wheels are coming off...what all to check for

Post by moore5623gl1500 »



Hello. New to the forum here. Just got my first wing 1990 GL1500SE.
Getting new rubber soon and want to know what all I should do and have checked or replaced while the wheels are off the bike? The procedure for re/re will be left to professional mechanics.


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MikeB
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Re: Wheels are coming off...what all to check for

Post by MikeB »

Check that all the wheel bearings move smoothly.
Replace the grease seals on front wheel. If the speedometer gear box on the left falls out of the wheel, the grease seal is worn. Same for the right side of the wheel. The seal on the right side should hold the spacer in place with the wheel and tire standing straight up.
Check the speedometer gearbox to make sure it moves freely and is lubed.
The rear wheel has three O-Rings that should be replaced too.
Replace the valve stems on the wheels. My personal preference is the 90 egree metal valve stems.


The OEM stems are not all metal and the rubber could fail with age.


Check the speedometer cable for fredom of movement in its sheath. It should slide out very eaasily and rotate in the sheath with no binding.
Check the brake pad wear. If the pads have 2 mm or less of material left, they need to be replaced.
Remove the final drive. All it takes is to remove the lower right shock bolt and the four nuts that hold the final drive to the swing arm. Remember to let the air out of the shock system before you start working. When you pull out the final drive, the shaft will come with it. Then you can re-lube the drive shaft on both ends. Remember to replace the grease seal on the drive shaft where it goes into the final drive coupler. Lack of lubrication will detroy the driven gear. Use Moly 77 lube or equivalent.


When you get it all back together, pump front and rear brakes a couple of times before moving the bike.

You could probably take this opportunity to beed the brake fluids. The caliper covers and left saddlebag will already be off. Oh, make sure the wheels are in place before you do the brake bleeding. The pads need to have the rotors bewteen them.

That should keep you busy for a little while.
MikeB
1998 - GL1500 w/184,500 miles ~ 2017 - GL1800 w/13000 miles
USAF Avionics Communications Tech - 1968 - 1986 / Flight Engineer C-130E - C-141B - 1986 - 1992. Retired
Industrial Maintenance Tech - 1992 - 2014
Retired in Tacoma, WA
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Rednaxs60
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Re: Wheels are coming off...what all to check for

Post by Rednaxs60 »

Good advice so far. Get an OEM service manual, good reading for those late nights. Answers a lot of questions you might have and gives good info on how to do the maintenance. You mention leaving the work to the professionals, not a lot of older fellows out there to work on these. You are your best mechanic. Good Luck and welcome to the forum.
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

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Swagonmaster
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Re: Wheels are coming off...what all to check for

Post by Swagonmaster »

MikeB wrote: Sun Mar 21, 2021 10:55 pm Check that all the wheel bearings move smoothly.
Replace the grease seals on front wheel. If the speedometer gear box on the left falls out of the wheel, the grease seal is worn. Same for the right side of the wheel. The seal on the right side should hold the spacer in place with the wheel and tire standing straight up.
Check the speedometer gearbox to make sure it moves freely and is lubed.
The rear wheel has three O-Rings that should be replaced too.
Replace the valve stems on the wheels. My personal preference is the 90 egree metal valve stems. 90 degree valve stem.jpg
The OEM stems are not all metal and the rubber could fail with age.OEM Valve Stem.jpg
Check the speedometer cable for fredom of movement in its sheath. It should slide out very eaasily and rotate in the sheath with no binding.
Check the brake pad wear. If the pads have 2 mm or less of material left, they need to be replaced.
Remove the final drive. All it takes is to remove the lower right shock bolt and the four nuts that hold the final drive to the swing arm. Remember to let the air out of the shock system before you start working. When you pull out the final drive, the shaft will come with it. Then you can re-lube the drive shaft on both ends. Remember to replace the grease seal on the drive shaft where it goes into the final drive coupler. Lack of lubrication will detroy the driven gear. Use Moly 77 lube or equivalent. Drive Line spline.JPG

When you get it all back together, pump front and rear brakes a couple of times before moving the bike.

You could probably take this opportunity to beed the brake fluids. The caliper covers and left saddlebag will already be off. Oh, make sure the wheels are in place before you do the brake bleeding. The pads need to have the rotors bewteen them.

That should keep you busy for a little while.
I will add one thing to the advice on the front wheel bearings, they should not have any detectable play at the edge of the wheel after the calipers are loose. Mine felt just fine when checked by themselves but that little bit of wobble really messed my steering up, hit a pothole at about 10 mph and had head shake so bad I thought I would wreck it.
As far as the rear wheel, at the very least the drive splines on the wheel need to be lubed but the full lube of the final drive and the drive shaft would be in line if it doesn't show signs that it has been done in recorded history. (check the rubber boot at the front, if it's cracked or worse this would be a good time to do it)
Try to learn from the mistakes of others..... you won't live long enough to make them all yourself!
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MikeB
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14K Miles
Contact:

Re: Wheels are coming off...what all to check for

Post by MikeB »

You are right. I forgot to mention the rear wheel drive spline lubrication.

Take a look at this thread: viewtopic.php?f=14&t=11396


MikeB
1998 - GL1500 w/184,500 miles ~ 2017 - GL1800 w/13000 miles
USAF Avionics Communications Tech - 1968 - 1986 / Flight Engineer C-130E - C-141B - 1986 - 1992. Retired
Industrial Maintenance Tech - 1992 - 2014
Retired in Tacoma, WA
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