"Newbie needs a Hand"


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
Post Reply
1500lifesaver
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Apr 17, 2021 9:38 pm
Location: Redmond Wa,
Motorcycle: 1999 goldwing 1500

"Newbie needs a Hand"

Post by 1500lifesaver »



Hello,

I just acquired a beautiful 1999 Aspencade red with 142,000 miles. For me this is my entrance bike into the crusier scene. I am young as I graduated the year my bike was built, but figured why not get into it earlier in my life. For fun I ride a XR650R so this is quite the change in bikes.

So the guy I picked the bike up from took pretty good care of it, but sold it to me with what he thought was a transmission 4 gear issue. When you decelerate there is a rumble that occurs and can stay present until under load again. It sounded like it was coming from the front of the bike the first time I got on it. Diagnosing the noise has been a challenge and finding it. Last I looked I thought with a stethoscope and needle It was coming from the final drive. What it sounds like is a bearing going bad to me. My research brought up the fix of the transmission issue in 1997 and newer models. I'm hoping it to just be the final drive. Under load it's fine and the bike runs awesome, but if you let that throttle off it make a rumbling noise and sounds like a bearing?

I hope to restore this 50th anniversary edition to glory and get it back on the road. I can ride it now but would not like to cause further damage. If anyone can point me in the right direction on forms I should read or if anyone has any idea what this could be I appreciate the help.

Thanks,
Attachments




User avatar
AZgl1800
Posts: 2723
Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2008 2:46 pm
Location: Lake Oologah Indian Territory USA
Motorcycle: '02 GL1800
2009 Piaggio MP3 250cc

Re: "Newbie needs a Hand"

Post by AZgl1800 »

If it kicks out of 4th gear, or won't stay in 5th gear,
the shift forks are bent.

the only affordable solution is a "new to you" engine that is known good.

Heavy footed riders push the shift lever too hard, and bend the shift forks....
sad to say.

my '94SE had that problem, I " solved it " by backing off the throttle with each shift to make double sure that the 'new gear" slid in and stayed put.

sent your PM, check it out.
~John

'02 GL1800
2009 Piaggio MP3 250cc
1500lifesaver
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Apr 17, 2021 9:38 pm
Location: Redmond Wa,
Motorcycle: 1999 goldwing 1500

Re: "Newbie needs a Hand"

Post by 1500lifesaver »

No it stays in all gears, the owner just figured it was the transmission. I was reading that they fixed it in 97
User avatar
DenverWinger
Posts: 1879
Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:20 pm
Location: Denver, CO
Motorcycle: (s)
1980 GL1100 STD Vetter (2005-)
1993 GL1500 Aspencade (2017-)
1983 Trav-Lite Camper (2010-)
Past rides
1972 CL350 (1980-1988) sold
1978 Suzuki GS550 (1985-2005) sold
1977 GL1000 (2002-2006) sold

Re: "Newbie needs a Hand"

Post by DenverWinger »

Really nice looking bike, and Welcome to the forum! :)

Just to be familiar with the term, the Goldwing along with some other fine machines of other makes are considered to be "Touring" class motorcycles rather than "Cruisers"... :D :D

Ya - Starting in '97 Honda beefed up the transmission using parts designed for the 1500 Valkyrie effectively eliminating the 4th gear fork issue prior years had. So I don't think your noise is transmission.

Could be final drive, but I'm thinking it might just be the U-Joint at the front of the driveshaft. These have a tendency to rumble under certain load conditions when they are going bad. It could also explain it sounding like coming from the front of the bike. This sound would occur regardless of what gear you are in.

Best way to tell is to remove rear wheel, final drive, driveshaft and U-Joint and inspect. That's a good excuse to refresh the Moly grease on the final drive splines (use Honda Moly 77 available at dealer), and all the U-Joint and Driveshaft splines. How-to's can be found on this site. Wouldn't hurt to get a factory service manual. PDF of a '94 service manual can sometimes be found on the 'net. Few differences between '94 and '99, the '94 book will be just fine for servicing your bike.

New OEM U-Joint is still available (I think) but kinda spendy, you might save some $ looking for a used part on-line, or maybe a "Take-off" part from a trike conversion shop. These last a long time, I wouldn't be afraid of a used U-Joint.
♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫ :(
♫ Take one down, Patch it around, ♪
♫ 127 Little Bugs in the Code. ♫ ♪ :shock:

~Mark
1500lifesaver
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Apr 17, 2021 9:38 pm
Location: Redmond Wa,
Motorcycle: 1999 goldwing 1500

Re: "Newbie needs a Hand"

Post by 1500lifesaver »

Thank you so much for your help and yes I know the Goldwing is a Touring bike! I don't know why I said crusier. I really appreciate everyones comments and help. I have the shop manual but it's kinda had to know where to start from. Also the noise isn't constant, seems to only happen when deceleration is occurring.

Thanks for the Welcome! Goldwings slightly more complicated than my XR650R.... :lol: :lol:

I did come up with a nice work around on the caution button I hope to share. Couldn't turn my blinker lights off the first month I bought it. Was able to replace with a different type switch. Works good! I am also looking to find out what services need to be considered at this age if I'm going to attempt to take it down. I hear honda dealers won't work on these anymore?

I guess I got some learning to do.....
User avatar
MikeB
Posts: 3463
Joined: Fri Dec 04, 2009 12:54 pm
Location: Tacoma, WA
Motorcycle: 1998 - GL1500 Aspencade
184K Miles
2017 - GL1800 Audio Comfort
14K Miles
Contact:

Re: "Newbie needs a Hand"

Post by MikeB »

The source of your rumble on deceleration could be caused by the rubber dampers in the rear wheel.


There is also aluminum sleeves in the dampers that wear and can cause some noise too.
The damper set is available from Cycle Max of Ohio (https://cyclemax.com/inc/sdetail/gl1500 ... set/147858) but the metal parts may need to be bought at the Honda Dealer if they need to be replaced.
If you have the Honda Service Manual, check out section 15, Wheels and Tires.

The part number for the metal damper inserts is 41242-MR5-000. They sell for about $15 each (ouch).
MikeB
1998 - GL1500 w/184,500 miles ~ 2017 - GL1800 w/13000 miles
USAF Avionics Communications Tech - 1968 - 1986 / Flight Engineer C-130E - C-141B - 1986 - 1992. Retired
Industrial Maintenance Tech - 1992 - 2014
Retired in Tacoma, WA
User avatar
dingdong
Posts: 4095
Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2010 8:35 am
Location: Oklahoma City
Motorcycle: 1976 gl1000
1993 gl1500A
2004 NRX1800 Rune SOLD

Re: "Newbie needs a Hand"

Post by dingdong »

Welcome! Sounds to me also like a rear drive problem.
An absolute must do is change out the timing belts if you don't know if or when they were replaced. This is an interference style engine so if a belt breaks the pistons will collide with the valves. Bent valves or possibly even damaged pistons will occur. Good luck!
User avatar
RockportDave
Posts: 441
Joined: Sat Mar 31, 2018 9:39 pm
Location: Rockport Texas
Motorcycle: 1999 GL1500 SE
Previous bikes:
1969 Honda CL90 “bobbed” before it was cool
1981 Yamaha 850 Triple w/Windjammer
1981 GL1100 Interstate
1985 GL1200 LTD
1988 GL1500
1988 GL1500

Re: "Newbie needs a Hand"

Post by RockportDave »

Welcome to the forum and the world of touring. I have a 1999 SE and have gone completely through it.
As stated by others, check with the previous owner if the timing belts have been changed and when. They can look fine, but age is what gets them. If in doubt, change them.
Below is a photo of my drive shaft boot and drive shaft along side of the new replacements. The boot was torn and the drive shaft had bearings going out.








Attachments


1999 GL1500SE 5th Goldwing through the years
User avatar
RockportDave
Posts: 441
Joined: Sat Mar 31, 2018 9:39 pm
Location: Rockport Texas
Motorcycle: 1999 GL1500 SE
Previous bikes:
1969 Honda CL90 “bobbed” before it was cool
1981 Yamaha 850 Triple w/Windjammer
1981 GL1100 Interstate
1985 GL1200 LTD
1988 GL1500
1988 GL1500

Re: "Newbie needs a Hand"

Post by RockportDave »

Sorry, my phone sometimes has a mind of its own.






My bike was also making the noises you described.
Also as others stated, use the how to’s on this site and check the rear drive. WingAdmin and others have great directions for checking and replacing any worn parts.
Dave
1999 GL1500SE 5th Goldwing through the years
1500lifesaver
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Apr 17, 2021 9:38 pm
Location: Redmond Wa,
Motorcycle: 1999 goldwing 1500

Re: "Newbie needs a Hand"

Post by 1500lifesaver »

Update!! Yesterday I took the bike for a ride, it was too nice of a day. I found on the Freeway with the cruise control ingaged that I didn't hear the noise as much.

I really mostly hear it the most when decelerating in 3rd and 4th. It is present at slower speeds also and even when pulling in the clutch lever.
1500lifesaver
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Apr 17, 2021 9:38 pm
Location: Redmond Wa,
Motorcycle: 1999 goldwing 1500

Re: "Newbie needs a Hand"

Post by 1500lifesaver »

Thank you all for the advice and your help,, I hadn't really had the time to ride the bike and hear the noise. After further listening it seems to be coming from directly under the seat. I can feel it vibrate down near my feet. It also sounds to me like a tick. It ran fine on cruise control and even around town if I was babying it. I did jump on it a bit and it felt like it was losing power a bit in high ram.

Thanks for the help!!
Solo So Long
Posts: 365
Joined: Thu Mar 26, 2020 4:07 pm
Location: Northern Nevada
Motorcycle: 1999 GL1500 50th Anniversary SE
1989 GL1500 FOR SALE
1983 GL1100 Interstate (ready to repair)
A pack of Super Cubs
Formerly (in order):
Honda Super Cub (bought 1968, sold ?)
Kawasaki Coyote (early 1970s)
Honda 350 (mid 1970s)
Kawasaki KZ900-PS (1977)
Honda Super Cubs (various years)
Kawasaki KZ1000C (1978)
Kawasaki KZ1000P (various years, 1980 - 2005)
Honda 360 (1983)
BMW R1150RT-P (2001)
BMW R1200RT-P (various years 2007 - 2018, NEVER AGAIN)

Re: "Newbie needs a Hand"

Post by Solo So Long »

JOB ONE is to change the TIMING BELTS.

Unless you have documentation that A), the timing belts have been replaced in the last couple of yers, AND B), that the bike has been regularly ridden since then, they are a time bomb, ready to turn your motor into history.

This is an all-day job (the first time), and once that's done, THEN start worrying about the rest of the bike.

When it's time to dig into the final drive and drive shaft:

First, DO NOT to the "flip up" trick for the saddleboxes. Go ahead and remove them -- it actually turns out to be LESS work than the whole "shortcut," and will likely save you damage to the boxes.

Second, just plan to do a whole service to the bike. Change oil, coolant, and filters, check tires (and tire age), pull the final drive and drive shaft, lube everything. Get the stuff you need to do that job before you start, and it goes pretty smoothly. The stuff to use for the splines is Loctite 51048 Moly Paste (the Honda 60 paste the manual calls for is long since gone). Yes, it's a bit pricey, but you don't use much on the Wing, and nothing else does the job anywhere near as well.

Check the DIY articles before starting these projects.

And keep asking questions, there's a lot of knowledge floating around in here.


Post Reply