THIS was a fun find

[DarthJ]

Well, decided to go ahead and change out my brake pads. Had it done at the shop last time as they were already changing the tire, so may as well. Apparently, I should have checked things when I got home. Now, I go to change them myself (been a few years, pads are inexpensive, so why not?) and notice this on the left caliper:

Notice heads are wrecked

Did they tell me "Oh, hey, sorry, we wrecked the heads getting them out so we'll need to order new ones before we reassemble"? Nope, put them back and said "good enough"

[bellboy40]

Crap like that is why most folks on this forum try to avoid going to the dealer for any service on their bike. This happens all to often, not only for motorcycles, but any vehicle as well.

[DarthJ]

Yeah, lesson learned. The hard way. Well, the pads aren't too low, I just figured to replace them anyway. debating ti try to fix it just research a "new" caliper.

In a better note, the rear pad change went awesome. But I did realize I should have changed them a while ago.

[LeYak]

That is simply atrocious

[MikeB]

Yeah, lesson learned. The hard way. Well, the pads aren't too low, I just figured to replace them anyway. debating ti try to fix it just research a "new" caliper.

In a better note, the rear pad change went awesome. But I did realize I should have changed them a while ago.

A new caliper should not be necessary.
Removing the pad pin bolts should not be too difficult even through they are chewed up.
Use a hand impact driver and a good ball peen hammer. If the the bit just turns in the socket headed bolt, then drilling them out will be necessary and that is not as difficult as it seems either.
A drill bit will pretty much self center in the socket head of the pad pin bolt due to the design of the socket head.
Use a bit smaller than 1/4" to start with. A 3/16" bit should work fine.
I do not remember the size of the pad pin bolt head right off but I think it was 8 mm x 1.25 thread.
The bolts have a beveled seat where they meet the caliper so a 1/4" bit will cut the pad pin bolt down to the beveled seat, just don't use too much pressure as you drill. You don't want to cut into the caliper.
When you get down to the beveled seat, the mechanical pressure applied by the overtightening of the bolt will be relieved on the threaded part of the pad pin bolt and that portion should just unscrew easily. If not, a screw extractor can be used to unscrew it easily.
The pin portion of the pad pin bolt should just pull straight out of the caliper when the side pressure of the brake pad is removed from the pin.

I know this because I have done it myself several years ago when my pad pin bolts were seated way too hard on my GL1500.

[PegasusRider]

How do you know they even changed them? Maybe they stripped the screws when trying to remove it and gave up?

[MikeB]

How do you know they even changed them? Maybe they stripped the screws when trying to remove it and gave up?

I don't think it makes any difference.

[DarthJ]

How do you know they even changed them? Maybe they stripped the screws when trying to remove it and gave up?

I don't think it makes any difference.

It really doesn't Same result either way, a pain in the butt to try and fix.

[Rambozo]

If they are too far gone for a hex driver, you can try one of these. I have had good results from them.