Loss of power and rear brakes in OD


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richardelsberry
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2019 12:39 pm
Location: United States
Motorcycle: 1995 GL1500 SE

Loss of power and rear brakes in OD

Post by richardelsberry »



Hello All,

I purchased a Goldwing 1500 '95 last year and have been experiencing a loss of power when going into OD. When I first got the bike I was able to pull over and sit for a minute, all would be fine and I'd be good for over 300 miles. This year it has gotten much worse. It happens every time I go out and in addition, the rear brakes goes all the way down with no catch. The brakes stay that way the rest of the trip. Then it's fine the next day again. Yesterday, there was a new twist. I pulled my clutch in to coast to the side of the freeway and the gears remained engaged as I down shifted.

One last observation, there has always been a small buzzing sound coming from the dash while this is all happening. Again, after a short stop, the buzzing is gone, the power is back, the clutch works (however, brakes still gone). I also notice a bit of over heating during this but that also goes away after a quick rest.

I've noted that there are no leaks and the master cylinder remains capped off.

I've tried all the great suggestions on this site. Cleaned the gas cap, changed the petcock and fuel filter. I bled the brakes even setting a large brick on the peddle over the weekend. After bleeding, the brakes feel solid until the power loss in OD and then bikes needs to be parked for a while for those to come back.

I've not been able to isolate what's going on. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


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Andy Cote
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Location: Windham, ME
Motorcycle: 2015 Goldwing, basic black

Re: Loss of power and rear brakes in OD

Post by Andy Cote »

You've been a user here for a couple years but since this is your first post, welcome. Where are you from?

Sounds like you've got a number of issues going on but not sure they are all related.

The transmission is a common five speed. The OD light is just decoration. The engine operates the same in all gears and unless you have a bent shift fork. Really no reason to act differently in fourth or fifth and the shift fork would leave you in a false neutral. It could be something with the ECU not responding, either itself or failing to receive a signal from one of the sensors.

The brakes nor the clutch hydraulics are not connected to electronics or vacuum. They are what they are and really should not change based on how the engine is performing.

There is one thing that I can think of. Heat. If it's really hot under the false tank, the electronics could be affected and the hydraulics could be affected as well. You say you have some high temp gauge readings when this is happening. IIRC there is a heat shield under the intake manifold. Is that there? Improper ignition timing can cause high temps. Does this have an aftermarket timing trigger wheel?
2015 Goldwing, basic black

Previously: GL1200 standard, GL1200 Interstate, GL1500 Goldwing, GL1500 Valkyrie Standard, 2000 Valkyrie Interstate, many other Hondas
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WingAdmin
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Re: Loss of power and rear brakes in OD

Post by WingAdmin »

Next time you have the power loss and hear that buzzing, open your gas cap momentarily and see if the power comes back. Often the gas cap valve gets clogged, causing excessive vacuum in the fuel tank that the fuel pump can't overcome, so the engine bogs down from lack of fuel. Opening the gas cap allows air back into the tank and allows fuel to flow again. The buzzing could be air slowly leaking back into the tank past the clogged valve.
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Andy Cote
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Re: Loss of power and rear brakes in OD

Post by Andy Cote »

Did you ever resolve this?
2015 Goldwing, basic black

Previously: GL1200 standard, GL1200 Interstate, GL1500 Goldwing, GL1500 Valkyrie Standard, 2000 Valkyrie Interstate, many other Hondas
richardelsberry
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2019 12:39 pm
Location: United States
Motorcycle: 1995 GL1500 SE

Re: Loss of power and rear brakes in OD

Post by richardelsberry »

Hi Andy, Apologies for taking so long to respond back. I didn't check the notify me checkbox so forgot to check back. No I still haven't figured this out.

Thanks for the suggestion WingAdmin. Yes I tried unscrewing the gas cap last time that happened but it didn't make a difference. It still remained stalling once I opened it.

The brakes nor the clutch hydraulics are not connected to electronics or vacuum. They are what they are and really should not change based on how the engine is performing.
There is one thing that I can think of. Heat. If it's really hot under the false tank, the electronics could be affected and the hydraulics could be affected as well. You say you have some high temp gauge readings when this is happening. IIRC there is a heat shield under the intake manifold. Is that there? Improper ignition timing can cause high temps. Does this have an aftermarket timing trigger wheel?


This is an interesting comment. I'm been told several times that brakes are a separate system than the electronics/vacuum which makes sense but regardless, it is consistent, each time there is a temporary loss of power the rear brakes go out and I drive home to let it sit for a while and all is good. I never thought about heat affecting both systems. Like I mentioned, the heat gauge does go up but only slightly. Not enough to have to pull over to cool down. I drove 400 miles and a quick stop on the side of the road and the heat gauge was back to normal.

I don't know about the timing trigger wheel I'm getting close to taking it into a mechanic. If so, I'll bring that up and mention heat under the false tank.

By the way, what is a false tank?

I'll update my post when I get this figured out.
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WingAdmin
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Re: Loss of power and rear brakes in OD

Post by WingAdmin »

If you have moisture in your brake lines, and you get enough heat and pressure (pressure creates more heat), the water can boil - and steam is very compressible, meaning no brake pressure. Once it cools off and condenses back to (non-compressible water), your brakes would come back.

The rear brake system does have a brake line that routes right along the engine on its way to the front wheel, so this scenario is not outside the realm of possibility:

GL1500 Brake Line Routing
GL1500 Brake Line Routing

richardelsberry
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2019 12:39 pm
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Motorcycle: 1995 GL1500 SE

Re: Loss of power and rear brakes in OD

Post by richardelsberry »

Thanks WingAdmin. That's an interesting point. I've never done it before but it doesn't seem like it would be that hard to totally flush the rear brake line. I replaced the bleeder valves with the ones I saw recommended by other members here to make it easier for one person bleeding. I forget the name but they were easy to install. I could run a hose off the back line and pump until the reservoir is emptied a few times.
gford
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Motorcycle: 1999 Goldwing SE

Re: Loss of power and rear brakes in OD

Post by gford »

The brakes are two separate systems. The front right caliper is controlled by the left lever. The rear rotor and front left brake are linked and are controlled by the foot brake. When bleeding the rear brakes do the front left caliper first followed by the rear caliper.
richardelsberry
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2019 12:39 pm
Location: United States
Motorcycle: 1995 GL1500 SE

Re: Loss of power and rear brakes in OD

Post by richardelsberry »

Thanks Gford. In fact, like WingAdmin's diagram showed. If it is water in the lines, it would be the line going to the front brakes. So I'll do those first and follow up with the rear just to be complete.
gford
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Re: Loss of power and rear brakes in OD

Post by gford »

gford wrote: Tue Oct 05, 2021 4:46 pm The brakes are two separate systems. The front right caliper is controlled by the left lever. The rear rotor and front left brake are linked and are controlled by the foot brake. When bleeding the rear brakes do the front left caliper first followed by the rear caliper.
Correction, the right front caliper is controlled by the right hand lever.


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