Freshening up a 1990 wing - what else should I do?

[kerravon]

New to me 1990 wing with 170,000km on the clock. On purchase inspection everything was fine except oscillating handlebars at medium speed when I took my hands off the bars, and a burning smell from the front brake under hard braking. Because it's 30 years old, I value safety , I have the time, and I like learning how to wrench, I decided to go overboard and replace a lot of stuff to future proof the wing for another 30 years even though much of the below might not be necessary. Here's my list. Any suggestions for other things I should be doing while the bike is in 5.4 million pieces?

Timing belts, tensioners and gasket
Steering head bearings
Front / Rear (F/R) wheel bearings
Swing arm bearings
New F/R tires with balancing beads, new valve stems, bead sealer
F / R brake master cylinder and calipers rebuild, new pads, check brake discs within spec, new disc mounting bolts, bleed and new fluid
New braided hose for F/R brake and clutch.
Clutch master and slave cylinder rebuild, new clutch lever bush, bleed and new fluid
New cush drive rubber dampers in rear wheel
Lube final drive and driveshaft splines
New later year model uni-joint and rubber boot
Dry compressor desiccant
Fork rebuild with progressive springs, new seals/bushes etc, new fluid
Replace rear air shock with 2 x koni aftermarket shocks
LED head, position, turn, brake and plate lights
90A compufire alternator and new dampers
Heated grips, GPS, aftermarket CB radio (not replacing stereo or speakers at this stage as I prefer ear buds)
Spark plugs
Ari filter (K&N), cruise and sub-air filters
Radiator flush and clean, replace all radiator, water and vacuum hoses, pressure test
Check throttle cable
Carby idle speed, synchronisation
New fuel filter and petcock rebuild
Install shifter brace and new shifter seal
Engine oil and filter

[Andy Cote]

That's quite a list. Not sure I can add anything to that. Have fun!

[kerravon]

That's still great feedback, thanks!

[4given]

The only suggestion that I would have is to try to get your list in an order that you would be able to ride every now and then.

[kerravon]

That is a great suggestion! It has been a real challenge just sequencing the work so that I don't put any part of the bike back together which I will later need to take apart again for something else on the list.

[4given]

That is a great suggestion! It has been a real challenge just sequencing the work so that I don't put any part of the bike back together which I will later need to take apart again for something else on the list.

That’s one of the biggest challenges because of all the plastic. Take your time and enjoy the experience. There is all kinds of help and support on this site.

[blupupher]

The only suggestion that I would have is to try to get your list in an order that you would be able to ride every now and then.

The problem with that as mentioned is removing and reinstalling plastics takes a bulk of time, and getting everything done while everything is off does make it easier, but agree being able to take a ride to check things out is important.
Doing 50 things then finding out the bike is not working does make it a little harder to troubleshoot sometimes.

[Andy Cote]

Definitely want to be able to ride. While most of us are headed for winter, you are coming into summer.

So I was able to come up with two mores things.

Check that the choke cables are free and travel fully.

Pull and lubricate the speedometer cable.

[Swagonmaster]

If the bike doesn't already have one I would add a Blackwing steering brace. You are doing what I had to do to mine but I didn't try to do it all at once!
Hope that you enjoy it for a long time after all of the work is done.

[Andy Cote]

Fork brace is a good idea though I prefer Superbrace to Blackwing.

[Swagonmaster]

While you are "under the hood" this conversation might be of interest.
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=27383

[WingAdmin]

Fork brace is a good idea though I prefer Superbrace to Blackwing.

I have to disagree. I removed the Superbrace on my GL1500 and replaced it with a Blackwing brace, and the difference was mind blowing. The front end was SO much stiffer and more solid with the Blackwing brace. Like night and day.

[kerravon]

Thanks to everyone who replied. Fork brace is on the list but I already bought the superbrace. New speedo cable is going in as I damaged the old one when removing it. Checking the choke cables added to list The cruise control was not working at all when I bought the bike, so troubleshooting it is already on the list. Will check out that thread you listed.

[Swagonmaster]

The advantage of the Blackwing brace is that it fits tighter and therefore stops more of the front end flex. What I did with mine (Superbrace) was to find washers that fit tightly in the recess where the attaching bolts go that had a "too small for the bolt" size hole. I threaded that center hole so the fastening screws had no play and then the screws w/washers didn't allow any movement when installed. When I upgraded to a Blackwing brace there was rather little difference in the steering. Since you already have the Superbrace you might try this hack.

[kerravon]

That's a great suggestion that I will definitely try, thanks!

[Mooseman]

"except oscillating handlebars at medium speed when I took my hands off the bars"
This can also be caused by the brand of tires and air pressure in the tire.

[Swagonmaster]

"except oscillating handlebars at medium speed when I took my hands off the bars"
This can also be caused by the brand of tires and air pressure in the tire.

And cupped tires or sometimes out of round tires.

[kerravon]

Thanks guys, I've put new Dunlop E4's on front and rear with counteract beads so hopefully that plus the new steering head bearings should sort it out.

[Mooseman]

Let us know the outcome....

[WingAdmin]

The reason why there is no definitive "how do I fix the deceleration wobble" answer is because it can be caused by so many things:

- Mismatched tires
- Worn tires
- Improperly inflated tires
- Cupped tires
- Worn front steering bearing
- Worn front or rear wheel bearings
- Loose or worn swingarm pivot
- Worn fork sliders/bushings
- Worn/missing fork bridge
- Loose triple tree clamps
- Worn shock bushings
- Inappropriate weight/load distribution on bike

Those are just the ones I can think of off the top of my head, I'm sure there are more.

[Swagonmaster]

Or you could hit a pothole in the side of the road in a turn at a light like I did one time and me and the poor driver in front of me waiting to turn really thought that head shake was going to put me in his door!

[kerravon]

The reason why there is no definitive "how do I fix the deceleration wobble" answer is because it can be caused by so many things:

- Mismatched tires
- Worn tires
- Improperly inflated tires
- Cupped tires
- Worn front steering bearing
- Worn front or rear wheel bearings
- Loose or worn swingarm pivot
- Worn fork sliders/bushings
- Worn/missing fork bridge
- Loose triple tree clamps
- Worn shock bushings
- Inappropriate weight/load distribution on bike

Those are just the ones I can think of off the top of my head, I'm sure there are more.

Thanks! Well, the good news is that I am addressing all of the things you mentioned

[Rambozo]

Be aware that even with everything in tip top shape, there are other factors like the basic frame/fork geometry that might not have been exactly right at the factory. Some owners have reported that their bikes had decel wobble from new, and others don't. Usually just a light touch on the bars is all it takes to keep things stable.

[kerravon]

Roger that, thank you.

[Sadanorakman]

1. Have you considered having the wheels powder-coated whilst they're off?
2. Fit louder horns after fitting your new cam belts?
3.volt meter
4. Motorbatt (or alternative AGM battery for cranking power and longevity).
5. Run fused auxillary feeds front and rear (both permanently live and ignition switched) e.g to underneath dash pockets) whilst all plastics are off, ready for future accessory fitting. Include earth wires alongside the supply's, as the earth's in the loom will not take additional loads.
6. Disconnect, clean, reconnect then seal every electrical connector you come across (dielectric grease?)
7. Swap dash lights for LEDs?
8. The electrical mod to ensure max current to coils during cranking?
9. Strip and inspect starter?
10. Replace all relays?
11. Fit Battery tender socket in an accessable place, and use one when you're not riding.
12 lubricate or replace throttle cables.
13. Test all three coils. Replace HT leads to go with your new plugs?
14. Are people bypassing the bank-angle sensor to prevent being stranded due to failure?
15. Strip, clean, and re-grease all handlebar switches, particularly indicator, hazards, and cruise. Pay attention to kill-switch, as this can come apart internally and leave you stranded.
16. Fit GPS tracker, and possibly immobiliser whilst all stripped down, even if immobiliser is hidden toggle switch to ignition.
17. What about traffic camera front and rear permanently wired?
18. Check, clean, all earth points e.g. negative side of battery, and protect with dielectric grease.
19 new alternator rubbers when you fit the compufire.
20. Fit Schrader valves to fork caps for easy level checking and refilling.
21 check all micro-switches for damaged wire connections and damage: Side stand switch, reverse switch, brake and throttle micro-switches.
...wow, I thought of 21!!!