Strange reverse issue. Clutch needs to be pulled in.

[Quick Cal]

This is on a 89 1500 I just bought.

My reverse will only work if I pull in the clutch lever. I don't think it's supposed to be like that according to video's I've seen. Unless is it something specific for the 88-89?

I better give you some of it's electrical background.

It had some of the small gauge wires going to starter relay's A and B, and the reverse relay under the seat,,,, melted. The po all ready opened the wiring harness up but I don't think he did anything. I changed the wires one at a time so I wouldn't get them mixed up. The bike now starts and runs fine with just some maintenance things I need to do.

It will start in gear with the clutch pulled in. Won't start with side stand down no matter what. I think that's all normal? But it will only start in nuetral with the clutch pulled in. I don't think that is normal.

So you guys got any idea's? Could it be the diode pack. I was reading a bit about it. I'll try to pull it tomorrow and test. But I admit. My electronics skills suck. I was a carpenter by trade and now have chemo brain to boot,,,,,lol. So you guys might need to walk me through any testing.

Thanks

[WingAdmin]

I had a quick look at the schematic, and my guess is that the reverse diode pack is cooked. As such, the ground that should be seen through D2 inside the pack (going to the neutral switch) is instead only getting provided through D5, to the clutch switch. This is also why you can't start the bike in neutral when the side stand is down (which you should be able to do).

Used replacements are around $50 on eBay.

Reverse Diode Pack circuit

[Quick Cal]

I had a quick look at the schematic, and my guess is that the reverse diode pack is cooked. As such, the ground that should be seen through D2 inside the pack (going to the neutral switch) is instead only getting provided through D5, to the clutch switch. This is also why you can't start the bike in neutral when the side stand is down (which you should be able to do).

Used replacements are around $50 on eBay.

Circuit.GIF

I found a bad diode. On my 89 it is not a pack, but 4 separate diodes. There was one that had goo oozing out of it. Changed it and all is well,,,, I think?

I got to looking for my clock fuse because it keeps resetting to 1:00 when I shut it off. That fuse in the relay box was good. Strangely my "back up" fuse in the fuse box is blown. But everything seams to be working correctly.

You think I still might have a problem with another diode? I got the whole wiring harness with 4 diodes locally. Guess I could change them all?

[DenverWinger]

The "Back Up" fuse is for the Station memory in the radio, and for the clock.

[Quick Cal]

The "Back Up" fuse is for the Station memory in the radio, and for the clock.

Now don't I feel silly. I thought back up was for reverse,,,,lol. Wondered why reverse was still working with a blown fuse,,,lol.

Strange thing is when I first got it I tested all the fuses and they all were good. I just must not have been paying attention to the radio and clock just then. I was more worried about all the melted wires I repaired.

What's really funny is I just changed the back up fuse. Turned the bike on and EVERYTHING was dead!! WTF!! I just drove it in the garage a hour ago.

Checked all fuses and they were good. Turned out to be a loose/broken plug on starter relay A. That's where the whole melted wire problem came from I think. The lock tab is broke and I think the po plugged it in backwards and melted the wiring. So I'll be fixing that plug asap.

Btw. The clock and station pre-set seem to be working now. At least for the few minutes I gave it. Going to go back out in a bit and see what I got.

Thanks to everyone for the help.

[Rambozo]

Who says Diode-relay logic died in 1961 with invention of TTL? It's alive and well (mostly) on the Honda GoldWing!